Rivet setting tool dimensions

gard

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I want to make a setting tool (punch) for 1/4" semi tubular rivets used to attach brake pads.
Is the anvil that supports the head inside the brake pad perfectly flat across the face and the same diameter as the rivet head?
What does the head of the other anvil look like? The one that cinches the tubular rivet. I can see poor photographs of setters that are for sale but can not find any suggestions on dimensions. There seems to be a small raised area in the center surrounded by a lower moat then a higher perimeter.

I am guessing there must be some kind of standard about what the finished cinch looks like?
 
The punch looks kind of like a punch for removing roll pins. It has a pin shaped punch in the middle with a convex moving out from the center to a rim that is the same high as the top of the center pin. Think of trapanning a small radius on a drift punch leaving a center slightly smaller than the inside of the rivet while having the outside edge the same height as the center. The radius will roll the tubular rivet over and then cinch it down tight. The anvil is flat.
 
This is what I have seen / used in the past. I have relined American Crane main winch brake shoes using this style. As stated, the anvil is flat.
 
Thanks, I have a general idea what it should look like but no actual dimensions. I made a punch using a trepanning cut with a 3/64 radius on the HSS bit. It resulted in the rivet spreading out but not really turning over.
Anyone have a punch designed for 1/4" rivet? What radius do I need on my trepanning bit and what is the diameter at the bottom of the grove and depth of grove?
I had the center tip slightly taller than the outside diameter, I can change that for sure but the hole in the rivet I used was deep enough.
Machinist handbook has anvil dimensions only for solid rivets. Mcmaster Carr has a punch-like hollow rivet tool for $60 and cheaper versions from china but I want to build something.

Here is my second attempt at a anvil tool and test rivet, I guess it is probably good enough but not really rolled over right. The goal is to rivet new clutch pads on a farmi tractor mounted log skidding winch.

KIMG2103.jpgKIMG2105.jpgKIMG2106.jpg
 
Do a cut through your rivet making a cross section to inspect the thickness of the rivet wall. Center pin diameter could be straight.
 
The new clutch pads did not come with any extra rivets, the first one I installed looked terrible but I eventually got it flat and tight. Then I took the old rivets and remachined them into shorter rivets and did a test into a block of aluminum. One reference I found said the rivet cinch length, how far it initially sticks up should be 54% of the diameter. Here is the test from the previous post cut in half.
KIMG2108.jpg
 
Looks functional, other than the counter-sink type head match-up. Should work. I am sure that I have dimensions on hollow rivets someplace.
Did you see this site:
 
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Thanks, excellent idea to cross section it. The real rivets are longer and will be going thru the clutch pad that has the correct countersunk hole, but same on the top hopefully.
 
That is an interesting web site, I had not seen that one. I am looking to build something like the tool shown, trying to work out what the dimensions should be for the anvil side. One of the shops suggested I buy this (john deer brake pad tool) https://www.ebay.com/itm/132998968121?hash=item1ef75b3339:g:aLoAAMXQWDVTliIN I like buying tools but seems like a lot for a one time use.

Several sources have dimensions for the rivets (rivet.com and hansen).
 
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