SB9A

[pjf134]

Hi,
I picked up my 9a SB today, it's been in the making for awhile. The weather was a problem, either rain, snow or cold. I was so glad I unloaded it myself, could not wait. It's a 9a w/a 3 1/2 ft. bed serial no. 57275NAR10 cat. no. CL644Z 1968 vintage. I guess I will be spending some time cleaning and checking it out before running.
Paul

 

[pjf134]

Re: SB9A advice

Hi,
I was working on my SB9a today, just cleaning and freeing up things, when I noticed a couple of things that needed fixed. The QCGB handles were froze up, could not move anything, so rust blaster went to work, freed up some but the handles would not go in and out, but it will go up and down with some help now. I was going to tear everything down and redo in the spring, I just wanted to do minor work for now like wicks for spindle and wipers, felts ect. I was wondering if I can take off the QCGB without removing the apron and leadscrew or is the leadscrew locked in on the inside of the box? Another question is on the spindle, It only has one socket head screw on top, does that mean I have too pull gears off to remove, because the bearings are in the casting? Another problem maybe is the belt engage lever hits the chuck, shim was added but is still real close. I might be able to fix when I get the countershaft back on with adjustment of longer belt ect., I will worry about that later when I put the single phase motor on and rewire it. Thanks for any advice as I am only a newbee with total rebuild. I have done some light work on SB but nothing like this. Pics to follow.
Thanks,
Paul

 

[Amigo]

pfj, I have a nostalgic soft spot for those South Bend lathes. I Don't think you'll need that sledge or maul to work on it though. Heh heh

BTW, If that work bench is the make I think it is, a wood 2x4 laid flat will fit front to back on the under side of the top, trapped by the table top flanges where they are folded under. Selecting 2x's with a little warp and putting it "up" against the underside of the sheet metal will reduce table cup and reduce vibration.
Maybe the sledge is to "nudge" the 2x's into place, aye.

 

[pjf134]

Re: SB9A Teardown

Amigo,
You were right about the 2x fitting under table flange. The table came with the lathe, I was not going to use it for lathe, but further thinking I might stiffin up and add drawers to make it more stable. I tore out the gear box today, simple except for stripped socket head screws at top. It took a total of 15 min. by myself, I supported the leadscrew with 2x4's and held the box by hand while unscrewing the last screw. Everything looks good in the box, but sitting for a long time got things rusted together, still everything is locked up. Everything is in good shape except for light rust sticking parts. pics included after I got things apart.
Thanks,
Paul

 

[pjf134]

Re: SB9A advice

Knudsen,
The handles on the QCGB did not move far enough to the holes yet, that is why I did a tearout of box and have it soaking in kero for now, if that does not work I will bring out the good stuff. Still the handles won't go in and out, but move a little freeier up and down than before, just not there yet. While parts were soaking I was playing around the headstock, spindle moves free, backgear moves free (disengaged), engaged the backgear and can not move chuck by hand at all, real tight, should it be that way? I think there should be some resistance, but I think there is too much. Spindle gears and back gears are the only gears meshing, maybe meshing too tight, any adjustment on back gear? Any advice would be helpfull since it's not my main problem for now. Gear box is no. 1 for now, then spindle wicks and felts, then wiring for single phase to 3 way switch. Today is the last warm day for awile, just trying to get as much done as possible today. My air pressure washer can only be used outside, would make a real mess inside. I will be adding more pics along the way, maybe I should do a lesson on teardown later on once I become a expert (HAHA). I just want to chew up metal, not rebuilt machines that chew up metal.
Thanks guys for the help,
Paul

 

[ChuckB]

Re: SB9A advice

Nice lathe and welcome to this great forum ;D

engaged the backgear and can not move chuck by hand at all, real tight, should it be that way?

That is the way it should be. Some people actually do this to remove their chuck, but it is not recommended. There is a chance some teeth either from the back gear or bull gear could break using this method.

 

[pjf134]

After soaking gear box overnight my spring loaded handles still do not work in and out, but the tumblers move side to side better now and up and down, still not reaching hole pegs. Taking all the gears out is not a option since all the tapered pins are facing the wrong way. Should I be able to move any of the gears by hand in the gear box or the two small gears outside the box on the bango? If I can get the handles to seat in the hole peg and put the lead screw back in and try to rotate by hand to maybe free up gears, would that work? I tried taping the spring loaded handles with a hammer to try to loosen spring, but did not help. Any good ideas out there?
Thanks for any help,
Paul

 

[pjf134]

Re: SB9A teardown update

I have been soaking the QCGB in kero for 2 days and everything is still stuck. I changed to electrolysis for 2 days now and everything is still the same, stuck. The only thing is the paint was removed and the top of the water is now a yuckey brown red slime, so I know it is working. Any ideas of how to unstick the gears and shaft? While waiting I went to work on the countershaft, the old motor was a 3 phase, was going to put on a 1 phase, but the old shaft was 3/4 and the new motor is 5/8, so now I need to find a pulley. I also found a broken git oiler in the countershaft, it's broken off inside the cast. It looks like it's been like that for awile, so I wonder how much gunk is in there. It looks like it's going to be awile before I get this thing running.
Paul

 

[Bobby Bailey]

Paul, I would get some Kroil. It is the best I've used for freeing things up.
Bobby

 

[pjf134]

Re: SB9A teardown update

After a few days of soaking in kero and electrolysis I thought of putting heat on the gear box. I hooked up a little ceramic heater next to the open end of the gear box and after 10 min. the gears started to free up. After working the gears for awile I removed the tumbler shaft to free up the levers, after it was off I hit the knurled end with a happer and it moved easy, lubed up and proceeded to remove other shafts. The shafts had some pitting and caked on crud, so I cleaned up a bit and put back together. The taper pins were facing wrong way when the gears were stuck, as I thought. The felts looked good so I cleaned them up and put them back in, since I did not order all new ones yet, still making a list of what I need. It is still too cold to paint so I am putting the box on and proceeding to the countershaft and motor work to get it running so I can see what else I need. I have to find a 5/8 pulley or a shim for the 3/4 pulley I have from the 3 phase motor. I am learning a lot more than I wanted too, next time it will be a lot easier, I hope.
Paul