Bill and others, if you click on "Reply", you can see the pics. Until the attachment issues get straightened out here, that is a useful workaround for the red X's.
Maach89, I see you made your mill vise as well...
-Bob Korves
Bill and others, if you click on "Reply", you can see the pics. Until the attachment issues get straightened out here, that is a useful workaround for the red X's.
Maach89, I see you made your mill vise as well...
-Bob Korves
Bob,
This issue has been here for a while. If a post was pinned on how to attach pics properly this wouldn't happen at all. I for one will not go through the reply to see a pic. I figure it isn't worth it to me. And I am sure others feel the same way as it is sometimes a pain to remove the reply after.
The dovetail was cut using the indexable dovetail cutter shown that I also made. It works good for facing too I think (faces beside the dovetail). And it's held in the spindle with the R8 tool holder I made.
Different cutter, but great videos and very nice working cutter. I have one.Those are nice looking dovetails. I really like the shop-made dovetail cutter and I'd like to see some more pictures of it.
Thanks. I'll get some pics for you and post them soon. Hopefully, I can actually get them to post this time.Those are nice looking dovetails. I really like the shop-made dovetail cutter and I'd like to see some more pictures of it.
The way I did mine was when I cut for the inserts, I went 3/16" from the wall (3/8 inscribed circle insert) then backed it up I believe .002" toward the wall so the insert would press tight against it. The first time I put the insert in it was tight and leaning a bit, so I tightened it down till it was flat. Now they fit snug and are flat. Might not be the best way, but it worked for me.I made one of these and had a sloppy fit to the insert. I shimmed it and it works fine. I like the technique in the video #4 as a way to find the correct drill spot.
Theoretically, if you used a 3/8 end mill and don't move the X axis, you should be in the right spot for the screw hole. Somehow this did not work for me. I think the drill skated about 10 thou.
Robert
I did two for "two flute" configuration. I've seen designs with just one and have heard of no issues. As for perfect alignment, theoretically if they are not perfectly aligned, one would act as a rougher and the other a finisher. Where I work, the scalper for aluminum ingots works on this principle. There are numerous roughing cutters, 1 semifinisher, and 1 finisher. All are on the same cutting head, they are just offset in such a way that the roughers do most of the work while the semifinisher and finisher cut very shallow. So, whether it is an efficient and effective method, I don't know, but it works for the scalper and my dovetail cutter works pretty good. But I have no doubt, 1 insert would be fine. Just simplified design.Thanks for the pics. What do you think about using only a single insert vs. two? It seems that it would be difficult to get two of them in perfect alignment, and if not perfect then one insert would be doing most of the cutting. Conversely with only a single cutter there's no alignment issue but perhaps more vibration. It would be slower cutting but that wouldn't matter much for those of us who only cut a few dovetails per year. Thoughts?