- Joined
- Nov 27, 2012
- Messages
- 7,855
This is how I had to use my super spacer. Mounted on a piece of MIC plate. What I hated about it is that everytime I wanted to use the SS in the horiz position I had to remove the plate. Then when I wanted to use it in the vert position I had to remount the plate & reindicate. That started to become old very quick.
This was the problem, in the vert position the slots on my table would not line up with the SS's slots & is why I had to use the plate. As you can see the slots are not narrow enough for my table.
So I set out to fix that. I don't have any angle plates large enough to hold the SS, well I don't have any at all yet. But I did have some thick pieces of AL flat bar laying around so I decided to make some & see how well it would do. I only milled the mounting & mating surfaces. Wasn't sure what to expect at this point.
Ok, time to dial it in. Didn't need to be that perfect for what I'm doing so close enough would have been fine. First I indicated to be parallel with the table's surface.
Then I dialed in the X axis.
Next I checked to see that the key slot matched. Yes it did.
Finally I wanted to check the Y axis to see how far off my AL angle plates were. About 1 thou, I just trammed the mill last week (tilt & nod) so not bad, I can live with that. Ok, now on to a bit of milling.
The slot was about .73" wide. I didn't want to widen it anymore by going through it with a 3/4" endmill. The next size smaller I had was a 5/8" which is what I decided to use. The largest bolts I use with my table are 1/2" so 5/8" is good enough for me. I use M12 for the SS anyway.
Next I needed to face the top side for the nuts (well bottom with the way it's mounted). I made a boring bar to be used in reverse like a fly cutter. I don't have any broaches yet & I didn't feel like trying to make a square hole by broaching on the lathe. A round hole with a screw is good enough for this. I set the cutter at 5° & put a larger nose radius on it.
Now I am able to use the slots & mount the SS directly to the table without that annoying plate. I made the slots wider than needed for different table sizes if/when I get a new mill. Ok, not really, I miscalculated & overshot my mark but I compensated when facing so it's still perfectly fine.
I'm not a fan of using locating keys with my vises but for the SS I decided to try using them. Sometimes I'll dial in the SS, start milling, then decide I want to use the tailstock. A few times I didn't mount the SS very center on the table & the tailstock would not line up (I use the keys on it). The keys for the SS are 5/8" & my table slots are 14mm. I milled them a tad bit undersize to allow for indicating.
Dial the chuck back in. I already "rebuilt" the chuck & SS internals when I first got it.
Now to check for nod. Oh, very nice, with the unmilled plate I used to get a thou & a 1/2 using the same bar at the same distance. I coudn't ask for better than that!
And finally, I added another point of reference. Not sure what this was for but it came with my lathe. The 0 mark is on the backside of the SS, I like to use the SS on the left side of the table so this makes it easier for me when I need a quick reference & not having to look on the back. I clocked it at 90° from 0.
Now I'm Super happy with my Super spacer! Thanks for looking!
This was the problem, in the vert position the slots on my table would not line up with the SS's slots & is why I had to use the plate. As you can see the slots are not narrow enough for my table.
So I set out to fix that. I don't have any angle plates large enough to hold the SS, well I don't have any at all yet. But I did have some thick pieces of AL flat bar laying around so I decided to make some & see how well it would do. I only milled the mounting & mating surfaces. Wasn't sure what to expect at this point.
Ok, time to dial it in. Didn't need to be that perfect for what I'm doing so close enough would have been fine. First I indicated to be parallel with the table's surface.
Then I dialed in the X axis.
Next I checked to see that the key slot matched. Yes it did.
Finally I wanted to check the Y axis to see how far off my AL angle plates were. About 1 thou, I just trammed the mill last week (tilt & nod) so not bad, I can live with that. Ok, now on to a bit of milling.
The slot was about .73" wide. I didn't want to widen it anymore by going through it with a 3/4" endmill. The next size smaller I had was a 5/8" which is what I decided to use. The largest bolts I use with my table are 1/2" so 5/8" is good enough for me. I use M12 for the SS anyway.
Next I needed to face the top side for the nuts (well bottom with the way it's mounted). I made a boring bar to be used in reverse like a fly cutter. I don't have any broaches yet & I didn't feel like trying to make a square hole by broaching on the lathe. A round hole with a screw is good enough for this. I set the cutter at 5° & put a larger nose radius on it.
Now I am able to use the slots & mount the SS directly to the table without that annoying plate. I made the slots wider than needed for different table sizes if/when I get a new mill. Ok, not really, I miscalculated & overshot my mark but I compensated when facing so it's still perfectly fine.
I'm not a fan of using locating keys with my vises but for the SS I decided to try using them. Sometimes I'll dial in the SS, start milling, then decide I want to use the tailstock. A few times I didn't mount the SS very center on the table & the tailstock would not line up (I use the keys on it). The keys for the SS are 5/8" & my table slots are 14mm. I milled them a tad bit undersize to allow for indicating.
Dial the chuck back in. I already "rebuilt" the chuck & SS internals when I first got it.
Now to check for nod. Oh, very nice, with the unmilled plate I used to get a thou & a 1/2 using the same bar at the same distance. I coudn't ask for better than that!
And finally, I added another point of reference. Not sure what this was for but it came with my lathe. The 0 mark is on the backside of the SS, I like to use the SS on the left side of the table so this makes it easier for me when I need a quick reference & not having to look on the back. I clocked it at 90° from 0.
Now I'm Super happy with my Super spacer! Thanks for looking!