Tail Stock Upgrade To 109 Craftsman

98rangerll

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has anyone gone from the morse taper 0 to a morse taper 1 convertion to find tooling easier I want to make one longer so I can put a dro on just one of the cheap grizzly or ebay ones and was thinking if I made one a 1.25 longer one it would work then I thought about the mt1 idea and wonder if it will work to make a mt1 tailstock ram thought I would ask you guys thoughts thanks guys for your thoughts
 
I hate to be 'that guy' but it seems like a complete waste of money to put a DRO on a 109.
If it were me, I'd sell it to one of the many 109 collectors that seem to be around and use the cash for something just a little larger that has graduated dials.

A 618 with dials is likely to be a whole lot more accurate than a 109 with a DRO. Just my $.02.
 
We don't generally condone derogatory comments about anyone's machines, but I'll have to say that I agree with spongerich. The actual return on all that custom work is apt to be disappointing. If anyone has an AA lathe that they want to get working, they'll get help if any is available just as would someone with any other machine. But trying to turn the machine into something it just isn't, no.
 
I spent a lot of time looking for something better but couldn't find it in my budget so when I came across this for the 100 bucks it's better than nothing I agree there are better machines but you gotta start some place I have access from time to time to a larger machine it's limited though and never enough to get all my work done so I thought why not drop 20 or 30 bucks and maximize what I got some time and material not my frst choice either but if someone wants to sell me there 618 or something bigger for the same type of money it's what I got
 
I see even harbor freight lathes with dials but they want as much for those used as a new one and you can never get parts for them
 
98 yes you have to start somewhere. Back in the early 70's before internet and my "world" was my small town, I bought a Unimat DB200 with a bunch of accessories. It wasn't a big machine and it did all the small stuff that I wanted to do and let me learn machining safely. A few years later I progressed to the Atlas 618 which is still my work horse lathe.

Best thing is to know what the 109 can and can't do and enjoy. If you do get accessories consider if they can be used for a larger machine.

David
 
Agree a 6 in dro I can switch with a new bracket to any machine I end up with I'm talking a generic grizzly one for 20 bucks not much but it could be nice to have
 
A rather easy fix for tailstock indicator is to make a graduated dial. I made one years ago for my 6" Craftsman/Atlas.

With the exception of the setscrew holes it can be done entirely on the lathe if you don't have access to a rotary table or dividing head.

The tailstock leadscrew has a 16 tpi thread so you advance 62.5 thousandths for every revolution. You would need 62 full thousandths marks and 1 half thousandths mark. With a dividing head, you would select 125 divisions and use every other one for the full thousandths for a total of 62. With a rotary table , you advance the table by 5 degrees, 45 minutes, and 36 seconds for each mark.

If you don't have access to a dividing head or rotary table, you can use the lathe itself as a dividing head. The bull gear has holes on the face of the gear every 6 degrees for a total of 60. If you slide the index pin into a hole and always take up lash in the same direction, you can use a lathe bit to scribe your lines. Your divisions will correspond to 1.04 thousandths instead of an even 1 thousandth but you will have a precise way to measure your tailstock ram travel. I used number punches to mark every tenth mark.

To use, you will need to figure how many full 1/16ths inches you need to move and how many thousandths past that. For example, if you wanted to drill a hole .800 inches deep, you would feed in 12 full revolutions of the leadscrew (12 x 1/16" = .750") and 50 thousandths past that. If your dial divisions are .00104", that would be 48 divisions.

It is more cumbersome than a DRO but it does work and gives you some additional precision in your machining that you would not otherwise have.Tailstock Dial .JPG
 
Another way to get an accurate readout of tailstock travel without much effort would be to use a dial indicator. You will need to mount some sort of tab on whatever tooling you have in the tailstock and a magnetic mount or clamping arrangement for the dial indicator. The tip of the dial indicator contacts the tab and as you advance the tailstock ram, the indicator gives you the distance traveled. A plus is that you now have a dial indicator for other uses as well; a boon if you are on a tight budget. Grizzly has 1" travel dial indicators for less than $20 and a 2" for less than $30.
 
Wet thanks guys I like your ideas I don't have a dividing plate but I know where I could barrow the use of one for long enough to take that task on and the travel indicator idea I also like simple easy mods and improvements you guys guys are awesome now to get to drilling a hole and facing then scribing and making a slip ring I can tighten on the ram in the mean time
 
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