The New South Bend 10K

[Silverbullet]

You should be able to match the pulley , grind your bit and fit it to the pulley you have the spacing set by the width of the pulley. It's not a job you have to get too super tight tolerances. Even your diameters can be changed if you want slower and faster speeds. I wouldn't make the job harder then it is , the only thing I'd suggest is if your chuck has more then a few thou run out I'd use an arbor and centers to keep run out down. Helps keep vibration down on the drive . Your pulleys can be made separate also then use one key and 2 set screws or 2 on each pulley . Just what I'd do but think it out you can do it.

 

[rwm]

Silverbullet - Thanks for the advice. You and I may be the only ones watching but here ya' go:



Resting on the stock that will be the larger pulley:










I machined the OD of the large pulley after it was attached to the smaller one so it is perfectly concentric. The set screw intersects the keyway and is hidden under the large pulley.

R

 

[Silverbullet]

What a great job , I knew you could do it and more then likely better then the one on the machine. Now it's wait for all the other items needed to mount it and wire it up. I'd love to be able to set up my mill with a dc drive motor. But unless I get a give away it ain't happen in. Good luck with your lathe keep the pics coming there really good also.

 

[rwm]

Drew up the motor mount plate last night:



Alibre CAD. I like it for 2 D stuff.

R

 

[rwm]

I am thinking forward to the electronics and motor controller. I was planning on having the gear cover safety switch activate the STOP feature by opening the enable circuit on the controller. The KB manual says this:

Enable Start/Stop Circuits – The KBMG-212D contains a 2-wire stop circuit
(Enable), which is used to electronically bring the motor to a “stop.” An isolated
single contact closure is required. If an isolated contact is not available, it may be
necessary to use an isolation relay.
What exactly do they mean by "isolated"? I have a stand alone switch that can break this circuit. Is that isolated? What would be non-isolated? I'm feeling isolated!
Please advise.
Robert

 

[extropic]

"Isolated" refers to a device keeping different power sources (AC/DC, different voltages) isolated from each other. In other words, use your proposed interlock switch to ONLY make/break the "stop" circuit.

I think, in your application, simply making/breaking (I don't know which, see your schematic) contact between the two wires will trip the "stop" function so an interlock switch should work fine.

Here's a link to some info regarding "isolated": http://ecmweb.com/basics/basics-control-relays

 

[rwm]

Ex- Thank you. I thought so but it's nice to have confirmation.
I am proceeding well. I have an 8 x 8 x 4 box for the motor controller and the Stop switch. I will mock up the wiring soon and test the controller.
CAD file for motor mount is at my brothers for plasma cutting.
R

 

[rwm]

I got my electrical box today:



It's pretty solid with 16 g steel walls. I need to cut some holes. Round holes are no problem (hole saw.) How do ya'll recommend I cut a 1.5 x 3" rectangular hole for the switch without messing up the box? Angle grinder will work but hard to control. I could drill the corners and use a sawsall? I do not have a mill large enough or a way to clamp it. Any other bright ideas?
Robert

EDIT:

Here's a good quick video. Better idea than an angle grinder.

Robert

 

[rwm]

Did a little work on the box:


Used a Dremel with a cutoff disc, then cleaned up with a file. Works very well.



I believe the vents will be adequate. Where this will be located it is unlikely chips will get into that top vent.

 

[rwm]

In the KB manual is says NOT to ground the shield of the control wire. Why is that? I thought shielding worked better if they were grounded?
Robert