The Voron kit build thread

[AlanB]

Using a Raspberry Pi?

Yes, this particular LDO V2.4 350 kit came from West3D, and West3D (not LDO) included a Pi4-2. LDO kits did include Pi's at first, but then they stopped when availability was problematic. So it seems to be up to the kit vendor to add one at the moment, which some of them have been doing. Recently the Pishop in the us had Pi4-1GB's available with a limit of 5. Digikey has had good stock of many configurations but they don't carry the 1GB version. Memory usage with the OS and Klipper seems to be about 0.3GB so a 1GB Pi is adequate. The Pi3B+'s were fine and those only have 0.5GB of memory.

I've been drawn to other projects but have been making slow progress on the V2.4 wiring. AC is in and power supply checked. Motors are labelled and wires are partially installed. Heatbed and Z probe wiring are in.

Tonite I took the V0.2 Z motor out and removed the anti-backlash nut and spring, and cleaned up the dust and reassembled without them. The friction went way down. Apparently the combination of the teflon coated leadscrew and the anti-backlash nut and spring causes extreme wear on something, the friction kept going up and there was a lot of dust on the leadscrew. I suspect the teflon coating is not smooth enough and teflon is harder than the delrin nut so the nut gets torn up. So either run without the anti-backlash setup or run a non-teflon coated screw with lube and then the anti-backlash could be used (but apparently is not needed). The vendor (in this case Fabreeko) provided another motor with integrated leadscrew that is not teflon coated, and a new nut set, but I thought I'd try this first. It has been printing fine even with the friction, but I have had to raise Z motor current several times and now it is about at the limit.

Ken226, nice job on the belt tension meter. I've used the little one that Prusa and others have modelled, not fancy, one part print, flexes, no bearings. Calibrated when printed with PETG at least to Prusa standards.

 

[Ken226]

Any of you using a bed fan, like the Nevermore, on a Voron 2.4?

With colder ambient temps, i'm finding that the 2.4 tends to stay warm up in the top of the build chamber, but not so much down lower, near the bed. Probably not an issue with the Trident, nor with PLA using the 2.4.

However printing ABS with the 2.4 in the Winter, it can be a little tough to keep even temps in the build chamber.

Supposedly the Nevermore helps a little, and also provides some extra filtration, since it has an activated charcoal filter.

I've been working on my own version of the Nevermore over the last few days. If it works, it'll draw air down and into the manifold from the front, and blow it across the underside of the bed out the left and right sides of the beds underside. two little 3010 centrifugal fans should, hopefully, do the trick. They won't provide much airflow speed, but should set up and maintain a constant, slow, convection cycle.

 

[AlanB]

I printed a Nevermore and it is not an easy thing to print. I did get the slide to work but it is not really what I want. I printed a Bento Box filter and pretty much nothing fit the prints - fans, hepa filter, magnets all failed to fit. I'm designing something more like the Bento box for my Trident. I want Hepa as well as carbon, and axial fans just don't have the pressure capacity necessary. The design is not far enough along to print yet.

 

[Ken226]

These parts were waiting for me I the Voron when I woke up this morning.

I melted in the threaded inserts, and started the print for the lids.

 

[Ken226]

I printed a Nevermore and it is not an easy thing to print. I did get the slide to work but it is not really what I want. I printed a Bento Box filter and pretty much nothing fit the prints - fans, hepa filter, magnets all failed to fit. I'm designing something more like the Bento box for my Trident. I want Hepa as well as carbon, and axial fans just don't have the pressure capacity necessary. The design is not far enough along to print yet.

Any progress on your Hepa?

I'm modifying my stock Voron exhaust box to take the I-Robot Roomba J8 filters from my wife's robot vacuum cleaner thing

. They're about 12$ for a pack of 6 on Amazon, and I already have to buy them every couple months anyway.

The OEM fan won't move air very quickly, but it will move it. Hopefully, the additional area from dual filters will help.

 

[AlanB]

Nice to see some progress there.

Nothing yet on mine. I bought some of the Bento Box BOM listed filters which look similar but may be smaller.

 

[AlanB]

Installed the Fridge Door Mod on the Trident today. This is an LDO Kit from West3D (or any LDO distributor). The split front doors are replaced with an extrusion framed acrylic single door. It has lift-off hinges, panel and door seals and a positive magnetic latch. It offers better sealing, and avoids having a door crack in the middle of photos taken externally of the printing process. It is easily removable for full access or printing materials like PLA that need open ventilation for cooling. One downside is it obscures the display below somewhat, possibly a deeper display mount would be desirable to offset this.

 

[Ken226]

Installed the Fridge Door Mod on the Trident today. This is an LDO Kit from West3D (or any LDO distributor). The split front doors are replaced with an extrusion framed acrylic single door. It has lift-off hinges, panel and door seals and a positive magnetic latch. It offers better sealing, and avoids having a door crack in the middle of photos taken externally of the printing process. It is easily removable for full access or printing materials like PLA that need open ventilation for cooling. One downside is it obscures the display below somewhat, possibly a deeper display mount would be desirable to offset this.

View attachment 484696

That looks awesome Alan. Great work!