Tidying up a REID 618-HR Surface Grinder

[keeena]

A few weeks ago I picked up a REID 618-HR surface grinder, s/n 19573. It was a bit of an accidental auction purchase. There was only 1 bid at the low opening price so I bid the next increment for the hell of it...and nobody else bid. Oops! So now I have a 1600lb lump of cast iron that I barely have space for. It was a sight-unseen purchase. I believe its mid-1960's vintage. It has the Reid/Helicoil branded 1hp 3-ph spindle, automatic Bijur lube system, and the tenths vernier for the spindle travel

I spent a few hours giving the machine a once over to get a sense of condition and if it was going to be worth putting in real time to recondition. Its very clean underneath the tables; didn't have a speck of grime and rollers and ways look in great shape to my untrained eye. The traverse is effortless. There were some minor issues with the handwheels (binding, graduation wheels stuck, etc....), couple things a bit out of adjustment, etc...which I sorted. The spindle nose has imperceptible TIR.

Biggest concern was an infrequent spindle noise that lasts a second or so; happens maybe once every 5-10min? A bit hard to describe...a quick couple of quiet "clack clack" sounds. Certainly could be a very early sign of bearings (ugh), but it almost sounds like it could be something loose in the motor housing itself. The other notable thing is some slight play in the whole spindle/motor assembly when I push/pull on the spindle up/down/left/right. The head rides in dovetails so I'm hoping that can be addressed relatively easily. But not the level of stuff I was going to get into now.

I slapped on a mag chuck, dressed a wheel and ground a piece of scrap to see what I was dealing with. This is a dry grind. Pleasantly surprised. The wheel isn't balanced and probably not the most appropriate grade, but the finish looks really good to me considering.

Test passed, it looks like I'll be on the lookout to replace or remake a couple somewhat minor parts. Building a rolling stand is near the top of the list too. If anything interesting on the refresh I'll post here.

One question I do have: I've never serviced an oiler system. There is a crack in the main line from the oiler to the distribution block, so that will need replacing. I generally know that these are compression fittings, but what terms and sizing (I assume threads?) do I need to know to find the correct parts? All the the lines are brass; some are 0.157" OD and some are 0.102" OD. Are there trade sizes I should be looking for? Flaring tools needed? What sort of bending tool should I use for this tubing?

If there's anything I should watch out for on this particular machine: would love to know! Speaking of: I'm aware that transporting SG's requires care as far as removing or stabilizing the table (removal strongly preferred). And there are add'l nuances with this machine due to the roller-ways. Installing the table is fiddly w/o disrupting the bearings unless there's some trick i'm not aware of!

 

[metalmagpie]

You don't HAVE to remove the table when moving the machine. Put a chunk of 2x4 on the chuck under the wheel and lower the wheel until it sits down on the wood, so the wood takes the weight. Then clamp the table so it can't move side to side. Then you can move the machine.

You can try the 5-block test.

Check to make sure the wheel nut is on tight. If it were loose it could clunk around a little. Or you can run the machine with the wheel and arbor adapter removed. Wiggle and push on things. Worst case you need new spindle bearings. But the grease inside the bearings may need an extended warmup time to get fluid enough to do the job. Use an I-R thermometer when the spindle is cold. Then spin it up and run it until you see 4 degree rise in temperature.

Another test you can do is to clean and stone the chuck and then put a precision level on it. Now move the table through its full range watching the level.

metalmagpie

 

[Richard King 2]

I would think about removing the table if you have a long drive home. If it i bumpy and pot holes even with the wood block you could dent the iron under or above the rollers. If you do not have an air-ride trailer I would pull the table.
They made a couple of spindles typed, a direct drive and pully. I would double check the wheel taper to see if it is tight. Here is a book with a trouble shooting page. http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/3348/26236.pdf

 

[Richard King 2]

Here are more books I saw one with a lube page..http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=3348&tab=3

 

[keeena]

MetalMagpie - yeah, I was running the spindle no-load for 10-15min a few times, a couple of those were w/o the wheel or wheelshroud in place. It really does seem likes its somewhere in the spindle. Its not very loud but I think next step is w/ a mechanics scope. At one point it happened while i was behind the machine and it sounded clearer than in front...which is why I felt (hoped!) it might be something dancing around in the motor housing.

Hi Richard - thanks for the link; that's where I fetched the manual from a few weeks ago. I looked at another manual and I do see one that has fractional sizes. Its not the same layout as mine, but hopefully the sizes will get me pointed in the right direction.

 

[Chipper5783]

For transport, you don’t actually put the grinding wheel on the block of wood, you rest the spindle housing on the block/table. My grinders have vee/flat ways, so it makes sense. With a roller table, either remove the table, or is there provision to lift the table slightly and put in a wood or plastic shim to get the load off the rollers?

 

[Richard King 2]

It looks like the spindle in the books I looked at said the bearings were permanently greased from the factory. That old grease gets hard after years of no use. If I were you If your hearing on and off noise I would think the grease is hard and I would think is no good anymore. If your careful you may be able to save the bearings, clean them in lacquer thinner, put in new grease and put them back in. If you go that route, be sure to mark where the bearing retainer spanner nuts are located now and look for the * TIR mark where it is located on the shafts and housings. and put them back on in the same location. Check your wheel grit, it should be a 46 grit wheel and check your diamond. Do you know how to dress your wheel?
I JUST SAW>>>DID YOU TAKE IT OFF THE SKID??? It should be sitting on the floor or on steel blocks.

 

[keeena]

@Chipper5783 - The roller bearings are in phenolic cages and would fall out of place easily if the weight of the table is not on them. So you'd want to remove the table and roller bearings completely (would be my preference) or lock and strap the table down and/or hold it down with the spindle & block method.

This is what it looks like under the table; those cages/balls are loose and can scatter all over the place pretty easily.

 

[Richard King 2]

@Chipper5783 - The roller bearings are in phenolic cages and would fall out of place easily if the weight of the table is not on them. So you'd want to remove the table and roller bearings completely (would be my preference) or lock and strap the table down and/or hold it down with the spindle & block method.

This is what it looks like under the table; those cages/balls are loose and can scatter all over the place pretty easily.
View attachment 438795

I am a person who says "Better safe, then Sorry" I have seen where the bearings dent the Iron.

 

[keeena]

@Richard King 2 - yeah, everywhere I look recommends a 46 grit. The wheels I have are Norton 32A60-F12VBEP.