I do have main 200 amp breakers in each 200 amp panel and could go that direction but I have been strongly advised against it. If the power company finds out it would be mightily ******.
Finally got an electrician to come out. He agreed that it would be "legal" to use two manual (knife) switches.
I fired up the unit. It is one sweet running machine. Can't wait to get it hooked up and have the power go out.
I know what you mean. When I installed my standby generator (15 kw Briggs with Auto Transfer switch) I remember thinking "I spent $5000 (completely installed and tested) for something I hope I never need", but it sure was nice the first time the power went out and I heard the generator kick on.
Just a couple thoughts here to ask yourself.
I'm guessing your generator has the auto start/stop feature based on its previous use. Using manual transfer switches, I'm not sure what other wiring connections would be required to maintain this feature. Without it during a power outage, you'd first have to go out and start the generator and then go close in the transfer switches. Check, but I think with this type of set-up, you will have to install lock-out switches for your main feeds by your electric company to prevent backfeeding the grid..
Second, this is a diesel driven generator. You'll have to be sure and have plenty of diesel on hand to feed this monster as well as stabilizer it to keep it from going bad. Gas station pumps require power to operate as well and most don't have back-up generators. So running to the local filling station for diesel during a power outage isn't an option
While you may need 40 kw of capacity to run everything, ask yourself what you would really need during an outage. My generator is set up to run on propane and is rated at 1.5 gals/hr at 50% load. Even at idle (no load), engines require fuel to run and, as you said, diesels don't like just sitting at idle. I live in the country so I have a 1,000 gal propane tank for my house and generator. Max fill on the tank is about 80%-85% so completely full it would run my generator for 16 days with a 50% average load running 24 hrs/day.
I did a quick search on your generator and I found a few 36 kw ones listed on eBay with asking price of around $26,000 plus. I don't know what kind of deal you got on it when you purchased it, but if I was in your shoes, I'd try and sell it. Based on these prices, even if you got half ($13,000), you could buy a standby generator with auto transfer switch installed and have money left over. I'd also recommend using natural gas fueled (if you have service) or propane (if not). Natural gas companies only shut off gas in the event of an earth quake or local fire. Propane can be stored on site in large quantities with no need of treatment, stays good forever.
Either way, I know when the power goes out ~10 seconds later, my generator kicks on, runs through a self test (~20 seconds), and then the transfer switch kicks over and the lights come back on. I don't even have to get my butt out of the chair. When power comes back it transfers back, cools down the generator, and shuts itself down.
The only issue I've had is during times when the power "Flickers" (lights go off and on really quick a couple times). The generator senses this as a transfer switch failure and locks out which I have to go out and manually reset.
Good luck with your endeavor.
Oh BTW, when I searched for a generator and switch, this is the place I found with the best prices.
https://www.electricgeneratorsdirect.com/power/briggs-and-stratton-generators.html
I didn't buy from them as I decided to go with a Briggs & Stratton generator. The local dealer delivered, installed, set-up, and tested the generator and transfer switch for about $600 more than I could buy them from this place and it was going to be another $150 for residential tailgate delivery or else it would show up on a big truck and I would be responsible to unload it.