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Treadmill motor on rong fu rf-30.
- Thread starter Ktencza
- Start date
The treadmill motor I used was rated at 130VDC but continuous duty claimed 3HP
I used an SCR controller , bridge rectifier , Used a Leviton 30 amp 120VAC light switch to power it up and added an estop on the output after running it through an inductor ( removed high voltage winding from a microwave transformer) to lessen brush arcing to the motor. This is not to "code" but it works. The lathe came with the motor and I wanted variable speed so...
It works pretty well,
I have turned 2.5" axle shaft material down on the lathe using this setup. It does drop the RPM's a bit when heavily loaded since there is no feedback loop. A 3 phase motor and VFD would be better but so far happy with the performance for about $100
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Thanks , I have a real nice Pacific Scientific motor from a commercial treadmill that I salvaged for my mill . A guy that did treadmill repair told m that that was the best Treadmill motor out there . I need to find out if they ever made MC-2100's for the 180 VDC motors . I like the idea of PWM speed control . How long has yer setup been running ?
thanks
thanks
Not very long I got the 1224 running in 2022 with another motor that came with the lathe a 3 HP 240V air compressor motor. I had to mount that backwards since it was not reversible. Only had this DC treadmill motor on it for around 8 months
All the wiring was missing from the lathe as was the original motor.
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I used some info from Dazecars vids. I am no expert but I would take some of what he says with a grain of salt as well.
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I would definitely put a good sized inductor in line with the rectifier output. Have to dampen the brush arcing or it will destroy the brushes and commutator in short order.
Yea , unfortunately I lost the choke I pulled from that commercial treadmill . I would be ok with a KB controller , but their pretty pricy .
thanks
animal12
I used a transformer out of our old microwave when we replaced it.
Just knocked out the secondary winding after cutting the top off and then just Migged the top back on. The inductance is probably higher than what is required but it has almost no arcing, Likely reduced the overall HP as well. Have to be careful disassembling a nuker, Caps can store killing voltage. Good luck with whatever you decide. A dedicated controller would be nice.
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