Tree Felling

MrWhoopee said:
I have a friend who got into a dispute with his neighbor. The neighbor fronts the highway and my friend lives behind him. The neighbor decided to harass my friend by cutting down a bunch of trees which opened up his exposure to the highway and its noise. The neighbor dropped one tree dead center down his own mini van, forming a perfect lengthwise vee. The harvest stopped at that point.
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Revenge is a dish best served cold...
 
A jack used properly is a safe and effective way to direct the direction of a fell tree. I used a 50 ton bottle jack on a Douglas fir that was 150 feet tall next to the cabin. Cut a pocket 180 degrees from the directing notch. It works to replace the normally used wedges with the control of a jack. Maybe just luck , but the tree went right where it was supposed to. A straight growing tree is a lot easier to fell than something like an oak tree. Had to hire an out fit with a crane to remove a 6 foot diameter oak tree next to the house
 
Nutfarmer said:
A jack used properly is a safe and effective way to direct the direction of a fell tree. I used a 50 ton bottle jack on a Douglas fir that was 150 feet tall next to the cabin. Cut a pocket 180 degrees from the directing notch. It works to replace the normally used wedges with the control of a jack. Maybe just luck , but the tree went right where it was supposed to. A straight growing tree is a lot easier to fell than something like an oak tree. Had to hire an out fit with a crane to remove a 6 foot diameter oak tree next to the house
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I find it very easy to drop a tree exactly where I want it......when there is no penalty for missing.
I have an old faller who does the hazardous stuff.
 
The best way I found is two weeks before Christmas hire a tree trim to cut tree down. The need money for Christmas and theye do for a good price.

Dave
 
One thing I've never attempted yet is rebuilding a chainsaw . Anyone ever put a " big bore kit " on a Stihl before ? Is it worth it ? :dunno:
 
Most chain saws have plenty of power. It is more important to keep the chain sharp. The only reason a big bore kit would be helpful is if it was on a large ripping bar.
 
mmcmdl said:
One thing I've never attempted yet is rebuilding a chainsaw . Anyone ever put a " big bore kit " on a Stihl before ? Is it worth it ? :dunno:
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Modded a couple Husky 350's
Reduced squish to a Minimum, Meteor piston, Cabor ring, muffler mod, unlimited coil, extra tooth on the primary drive, full chisel chain. Light screamers for a firewood saws. one each using the factory closed and open port cylinders
I did buy a Stihl clone MS 660 kit but still need to build it. It should be a decent powerhouse.

Saw beats an axe and jack I use a 10k lb pull strap and Long cables to one of the tractors putting tension in direction of desired fall line.

I took these leaners down several years back, didn't want a wind storm causing destruction of the garage. Garage walls are 13 feet tall.
There was some pucker factor. Took a while to get the larger stump out

older Now if I had to do it today I would hire a bonded crew.
 

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I was looking at these Meteor kits for a Stihl MS310 if the piston/cylinder is scored . Worth it ?
 
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