What protects a steel shaft from the marks left behind from set screws?

[ome]

I just tend to modify the shaft with a flat. Yes, the setscrew still marks the flat but now does not interfere with the smooth operation of the machine.

Thanks Randy, and all who helped with great advice.
Be well,
Jon

 

[old cone]

Just a short piece of brass, probably 1/8" long close to hole diameter. Known in the trade as a "mouse"

 

[KenS]

I just tend to modify the shaft with a flat. Yes, the setscrew still marks the flat but now does not interfere with the smooth operation of the machine.

Randy,

One caution with this method is that if over tightened, the tip of the setscrew can mushroom making it difficult to unscrew from its threaded hole.

I just experienced this with pinch bolts for the control shafts in an old stationary disc sander. They were almost impossible to unscrew from the casting due to the ends mushrooming from over tightening against the shafts. Brass or nylon insets could have prevented this.

Ken

 

[2Tite]

A lead pellet inserted ahead of the set screw works well also. It will conform to the surface of the shaft and provide a larger bearing surface than harder materials.

 

[LEEQ]

If the set screws always go in the same line, just differ in position left to right, you could mill a flat along the whole length of the shaft. I'd like to see the machine just because I'm a junkie. Other peoples fixes (machines) help curb the symptoms of my disease.

 

[Marco Bernardini]

A guy I know, whose technical skills on a scale 1-10 are -232, had a sliding bar with a set screw to block the blinds of a window.
To open the blinds he turned the set screw in the wrong sense, thinking it was stuck, and broke the square stem on the top of the set screw (he borrowed a big monkey wrench to turn the small key with a square hole).
I drilled away the remaining brass and made a hole into the bar (it was pretty punched, no need to take measures) placing an M6 bolt to lock the sliding part.
Then I instructed him to use "the same strength required for a pinch of salt" to turn the bolt with bare hands.
I'm sure soon or later I'll have to replace that bolt.
:roflmao:

 

[LHC]

Just a short piece of brass, probably 1/8" long close to hole diameter. Known in the trade as a "mouse"

I was wondering what to call these things ! I have an old British lathe I am taking apart for cleaning and trying to get it in working shape again, and came across a few that need to be renewed. I was referring to them as "brass pills" in my notes.

Thanks for the "proper" term !

 

[ome]

If the set screws always go in the same line, just differ in position left to right, you could mill a flat along the whole length of the shaft. I'd like to see the machine just because I'm a junkie. Other peoples fixes (machines) help curb the symptoms of my disease.

Lee,
You are one of the lucky ones!
Nothing curbs my addiction, except buying more machines!

jon

 

[ome]

Randy,

One caution with this method is that if over tightened, the tip of the setscrew can mushroom making it difficult to unscrew from its threaded hole.

I just experienced this with pinch bolts for the control shafts in an old stationary disc sander. They were almost impossible to unscrew from the casting due to the ends mushrooming from over tightening against the shafts. Brass or nylon insets could have prevented this.

Ken

Hi Ken,
I tried the method of putting a 6/32" piece of brass on top of the 3/8 " set screw, it was only 1/8 " long, but it did not allow the set screw to engage in enough threads, and I was not able to tighten it enough to prevent movement.
Thanks,
Jon

 

[TOOLMASTER]

look up shaft couplings on mcmaster

Hi,

I wish I could make my own split collar, and I can't seem to find a split collar that is atleast 2" high.

Jon