Found a Monarch 10EE

[DirtyOz]

I am a novice when it comes to machine tool. I am learning on an old HF 9x20 that I picked up a few months ago. A friend of mine who has his own retirement machine shop called and offered me this old Monarch 10EE. He has not had time to mess with this and wants to make room for a giant lathe that is showing up in a week or so. He is asking 2k for the 10E. There is a placard that says it was rebuilt in 1992. The pic of the ebox looks like maybe a VFD has been installed, but I’m not sure. This thing might have not even been used much or at all since then. The tailstock is probably off a 12” and is too high of course. I think some milling could make it line up. Someone has modified the chuck jaws to accept a collet, but that’s not an issue. The cross slide might not be original, but still not a deal breaker. The tach is in a box and has been messed up a bit. Not sure if it can be salvaged or not. What you guys think about this?

 

[rabler]

The tach isn't a big deal, easy enough to replace with something digital. Fixing the tailstock is more of a challenge The electronics are not really a VFD as it appears to have the original DC motor, so it is some type of DC converter. Since it isn't original, if it isn't working diagnosing and repairing it could be more challenging depending on the make/model and what information can be found on that converter/controller. It does appear to be a single phase power input based on two fuses (not three) but that is not certain.

All-in-all, looks to be a project machine more than a take it home and use it tool. Projects can be fun, and rewarding in their own way, but if that isn't what you want to get into then you might want to take a pass on this one. I've had a 10EE sitting for a couple years now that I need to finish. Got side tracked building a new shop and a few other things.

 

[mattthemuppet2]

the tailstock will be a bit of a challenge, I can't see you milling an inch off the base and still having a base, so a trade for a 10" or buying one from someone parting a 10" out would be the best bet (plenty of action on the PM Monarch forum).

But if it runs and doesn't make any disturbing noises then $2k is a steal. Those jaws are soft jaws, bored to a specific diameter for repeat workholding. Make sure you get the original hard top jaws with the lathe and ideal any other chucks/ tooling that go with it.

 

[DirtyOz]

So I am assuming the spec sheet included is the as-built from R&R and not the as-found. Which, according to that and the 3-line diagram means it requires 3/phase power. If this is the case, I don’t really want to mess with it or a phase converter. It might not play nice with the electronic DC armature and field controller, who knows. I couldn’t access the main disconnect box because it was too close to the wall and the cord was likely removed. That kinda sucks because it’s literally down the street and owner has a capable forklift to move it.

 

[great white]

If you want to take on a project, just rip all that stuff out and go with a modern power train (ie; motor, vfd, etc)

I'd be all over that for 2K, but that's just me. You need to decide for yourself if you want to deal with repairing it.

 

[DirtyOz]

If you want to take on a project, just rip all that stuff out and go with a modern power train (ie; motor, vfd, etc)

I'd be all over that for 2K, but that's just me. You need to decide for yourself if you want to deal with repairing it.

Ugh..Lol, I really don’t need another project of that caliber. Single phase maybe. If I lived in the contiguous US, I would test it, slap a cord on it and get it turn key, then flip it and maybe make a buck or 2. This town is only maybe 14k people and remote by boat or air. Not a lot of options for trying to sell it.

 

[rabler]

From the drawings the only thing using 3phase is the coolant pump, the main motor is single phase, so it could easily e run on single phase without the coolant pump.

 

[Richard King 2]

It's a small world sometime. I will be teach a scraping and Rebuilding class at DLA in Mechanicsburg PA where the machine was rebuilt on Feb 6. I have been teaching classes there for over 30+ years. I can ask them to supply me with a manual for the machine and a history. Email me a name plate and the control and machine and I'll forward them to the Foreman in the rebuild area where I will be teaching 15 Apprentices. They may have a spare TS too. I'll ask them. Richard@handscraping.com

 

[DirtyOz]

It's a small world sometime. I will be teach a scraping and Rebuilding class at DLA in Mechanicsburg PA where the machine was rebuilt on Feb 6. I have been teaching classes there for over 30+ years. I can ask them to supply me with a manual for the machine and a history. Email me a name plate and the control and machine and I'll forward them to the Foreman in the rebuild area where I will be teaching 15 Apprentices. They may have a spare TS too. I'll ask them. Richard@handscraping.com

Also to Rabler : I do see where the coolant pump is 3 phase and the Dc motor drive is coming off 1L1 and 1L2. The control transformer is off of 1L1 and 1L3. I guess the xfmr could also feed off 1 and 2 instead because there shouldn’t be any significant load there right?
Then should lift wire 7 off the M1 coil in case the pump switch gets inadvertently turned on and single phases that motor. Am I making any sense there? Edit : I may have mis-spoke there. I see I need to look at other drawings

 

[mksj]

Yo could remove/disconnect the coolant pump or replace it with a single phase coolant pimp connected to L1 and L2. Then on the input single phase power connect L1 to L1, and connect L2 of the input power to both L2 and L3 which will power both transformers. The key question would be dose it work, and if there is anything that needs a major repair. You may be able to find a tailstock, as you do see these machines being worth more parted out, but expensive.