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As some of you know, I have wanted to stop managing H-M for some time.
It's a tremendous strain on my personal life. I want to set up my own shop.
In September, September 15, to be exact, it will be 8 years that Hobby-Machinist has been in existence.
We've seen a lot of changes. In March, 4 moderators left to start their own site.
They took some of you with them. So now you have split loyalties. You know who you are.
They didn't like my way of managing this place, and thought they could do better without me.
They didn't. The only thing holding them together is that they hate me.
Their site was down until mid July. That is why I wanted to stay involved on here until they could learn to run this place. But they wanted me to leave right away, without the training part.
Anyway, I have been training VTCNC to run things here. Dabbler is going to learn too.
I feel that they are ready to start taking over the operation.
I will be here to help in case they need, but I don't think they will.
Tony Wells is and will be here also to consult with.
I will be doing backups, upgrades, and installing addons.
Other than that, I don't want to know about this place.
What about the 4 moderators who were disloyal?
I don't care. It isn't my call anymore.
I would think that, rather than fumble, they ought to come back and do good work.
That's up to them. If they want to return to try to lead more members to their site, I am done caring.
I suffered too much aggravation worrying about it. I don't plan to spend any more.
What they do impacts on them. I have my own opinions including those of you who followed them there.
No longer my problem.
I am leaving this place in good operating condition, and financial condition.
I picked up a Clausing variable speed drill press from a Craigslist ad. I offered the guy $200.00 and he accepted. The drill press was in decent overall condition, and had a new motor on it. I disassembled the machine and cleaned up and painted everything. Mechanically, it was in very good condition, and the only real repair work I did was to straighten a few of the handle arms. One really nice feature is the table lift, which works great on that heavy table (btw: the table doesn't have a single drill mark in it!) This is my second Clausing variable speed drill press. The first one is in my metal shop, this one will be in my wood shop. Jack Fort Loramie, Ohio
Finally picked up a slotter attachment that I have been looking for. Probably paid a bit much, but it's practically new. Stripped it and cleaned out the old gunk. Back together already, quickest rebuild yet. Missing one oil cap and the arbor, but I have a print for the arbor. All I did was clean it. Jason
Just when you thought "what else can be done with the chess set", a new idea comes along... This is what a chess set using Plasti-Block™ ABS dual color rods could look like. Other color combinations can also be fun! Let us know what else would you like to see modeled using this product. We are looking forward to hear your ideas. Plasti-Block™ Team
I'm going to make some gears soon and came across this while brushing-up and refreshing my memory. Of course, the Machinist's Handbook has it all but, this is a very nicely authored and to-the-point tutorial. This is based on Diametral Pitch and not the Module method. I have some other guides based on Module method but need to check the copyright information. Enjoy... Ray
Finally got around to taking some photos of my process as I make some of my string winding cranks. Here's one with a koa handle: These cranks feature a soft head made of low density polyethylene, an angle of 83-degrees to simulate wrist rotation, and a solid bearing in the handle. Interestingly, one of the first questions I get about them is, "How do you achieve that angle?" So, I'll start the description with that in mind. . . The only commercially made part is the little brass ball, which I drill almost all the way through with a 6.4mm drill that gives me a .252: hole, making for a nice sliding fit for a 1/4" precision ground aluminum rod: Here, I'm using my tiny Rusnok milling machine. I have the ball set into a matching cavity I milled by plunging with sa 1/2" ball end mill into the steel soft jaws on my old 4" Kurt vise. By the way, I get my soft jaws for vises and chucks from monsterjaws.com - no affiliation - they sell CNC made jaws for about what I'd pay for raw...
I moved my PM1340GT to its permanent position and leveled it. The PM1340GT is meant to be leveled and then the headstock aligned using its adjustable mount. This post is about the head and tailstock alignment methods I used. I recognize that this is not the only way to do it nor have I invented anything new. I am just trying to share the process I used for others who might find it helpful. Key to the process I settled on are a good four jaw chuck, a 1” precision ground steel test bar, and a 2”diameter aluminum bar for test cuts. The sequence I used: Aligned the tailstock using the “quick method”. Aligned the head using my four jaw chuck, a 1” round precision ground bar, and the Rollie’s Dad Method. (Note: if you aren’t familiar with the RDM, google it and you will find lots of info) Realigned the tailstock using the quick method. Turned a 2” diameter aluminum test bar with two collars using 4 jaw chuck and between centers. I did test cuts with the 2” two collar bar...
When I sold my Atlas 10F24, I held on to my Bison 5” 3J, as it was fairly new. Naturally I needed to make a new backing plate to mount it onto the new lathe. The old plate was 1 1/2” X 8 while the new spindle is 2 1/4” X 8, so I needed new metal to do this. I recently purchased 2 backing plates from Busy Bee Tools. They are 8” semi raw castings. They are turned to clean off the rough cast surface and the center hole is 1” ID unthreaded. First I started by reading up on what could be the rights and wrongs in making these backing plates. Recent posting here by various people, too many to list, have been of excellent help. I make a copy of my spindle, so that I had a plug to try the threads as they neared finish size. I used the 3 wire method to make the plug match the spindle. Once the readings were the same between the two, I was finished. I did stamp the diameter and tpi for future reference. I am making two backing plates. One for the above Bison chuck and the second for...
Well after making my 1st project, (aluminum container) I cleaned up all the mess and lubed stuff up. With my compound slide off I noticed a little pin with a aprox 50 degree angled face laying on my chip tray. Pulled out the parts diagram and found it's an adjusting pin for the gibs, 4 of these slide into my compound slide to adjust tighten the gibs. Oh no, I only have 2 pcs. Don't know if I dropped them or what but they be gone. So I found a box of nails and matched diameters up and filed the angle to match and cut with hacksaw to length. Working great and a little smoother now. Anyone else loose those little pins?
I currently have a .0005" Fowler X-Test Swiss type horizontal test indicator that I use for 95% of my setup work. I would like to pick up a new indicator with a .0001" resolution for finer work. I'm hoping to find one that is a swiss style with the swivel shank and .016" of travel (so two needles, the main one and the rev indication). The only one I can find is a $450 (edit) Interapid. Anybody know of a less expensive option?
Toaster is a great conversation starter about materials usage, resource management and sustainability. We wrote a short article to start the dialogue. (https://www.plastiblocks.com/single-post/2018/08/10/Toaster---a-conversation-starter) It is so sad that majority of people who have skills don't bother repairing slightly broken, old appliances. And people who don't have skills - have no one to help because repair shops are almost extinct. I hope you can participate in the discussion we started on our blog by commenting there or here and maybe share any repair projects of house hold stuff to encourage others to do so as well.
Hi, A co-worker asked me if I could fix his "Gold Buddy", Slues box. Please see the pics. These are bullet holes, someone pounded out the extrusion. I plan on cleaning as good as I can and placing the sheeting on a thick piece of aluminum to reduce the heat. Do a bit of pre-cleaning with the TIG torch then form a puddle and fill. Any other procedures or ideas/problems with my plan? I do have some scrap material that is the same thickness so I can get the settings close before I tackle this simple to you job. Thanks for the help.
I found in my shop 6 similar endmills in a box which I bought in 2011 and have no idea what they are for. Total length is 1.75”, 1/8” Shank, 1/8” OD and 2 are 2 flute, 2 single flute and 2 V shape ends. What the purpose of the orange sleeve at the end of the shank? If I will use them to trim aluminum what will be the recommended RPM?
A friend at work asked if I could machine a new handle for this super old clamp I think it is. I know he's got an old manual drill press that needs fixing but this looks like a handle from a clamp. I think the end on the screw can be pressed out but not sure how to get the handle off. Thinking this must be cast iron. He wants it remade in cast iron which I'm not to excited about but said I'd think about giving it a shot. Any ideas how to go about it?
I know this horse has been beat to death.The more I read and watch Utubes my headache getting worse,I have read post back several yrs ago and different forums to kinda present day and time.Guys I am just weekend wannabe machinist type person just doing this for fun so nothing serious but I want it to be spot on and trouble free(possible) I know that comes at a cost.Guys I can't come close to afford one of those top shelve models so I have in mind DROpros but thats little above my budget but maybe.So guys 1)DROPros but what would you pick as your Second choice?I have look over on auction site and they are there by boat loads and are very cheap which kinda scares me little.I want the magnetic scales but looks like on ebay its all glass.What I want to put this on is a mill say 2axis and also 2 axis for my 11" lathe later down the road.On Ebay I can find 3axis for 300.00 but glass and its hard to resist that price but again which one and from who?I know that at those prices support...
Hello everyone, I was thinking you all could list some practice cuts or things to start off practicing on the lathe. I have only done face cuts so far and starting to think I should practice steps, curves, shoulders, etc Really no idea what to practice first or what will build up good lathe skills for when I actually turn a project. I have heard some people practice making bullets? What is that all about? Thanks
Finally did it, took .030 " off the end of a 1" rnd aluminum bar stock. 1st cut ever!!! So excited to finally make a pass on the new metal lathe!! Couldn't contain myself, lowered the tool post slightly and took .005 off. I am loving it, made great swarth, nice long pcs and some 1-2" spiral pcs..haha I know my technique is bad as I have no practice, I could tell I was not steady in the feed rate and I see the lines in the face cut. Will practice more, play with angle and tool selection and eventually go power feed vs manual turning. Thank you all for helping me with my most basic newbie questions!!! You guys Rock!!
Just stopped working. Suddenly I started hearing a loud tick. Stopped the machine to investigate. There is a collar that the feed rod runs through. I'm pretty sure that normally this collar (thinking it might clamp down on the rod) is stationary not rotating like it is now. Ideas? Thanks in advance.
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Hi, I am trying to get to know my Miller Diversion 180 with regard to Aluminum. I picked up some bent scraps at the local source. All I know is it is aluminum. I have read that some aluminum alloys can't be welded, I guess I found one. I have had success welding aluminum so I am not a total newb. but close. I set the dials to "Aluminum", 1/8" = 105 amps AC. The cleaning action is normal, the puddles will not join. I wait for the puddle to develop, introduce a bit of 4043 rod .093". The rod melts but will not come together. I used a wire wheel, cleaned with acetone as always. Anything obvious? Thanks, Jeff
So setting up Grizzly G0602 for first time, adjusting gibs and backlash i came across this situation. The top tool compound seems to go loose then right while turning its adjusting collar. Gibs don't really affect it nor backlash. Thoughts? Thanks guys
Been awhile since posting so I thought Id share the first actual part I made on a lathe that actually will serve a purpose...drawbar spacer for the Atlas 618. Everything went well until I decided to try to part off, way too much chatter. I have the qctp from LMS and the blade type cutoff tool that fit in the tool holder. I will read up on the parting issue as I know there is much info here on this. I already understand I was running too fast to part off. I've only had this lathe running for a couple weeks so overall I was happy with the outcome. So thanks to all who contribute their knowledge here, without that I do not think I would have gotten this far so quickly. Any recommendation on alternative parting tools I would be interested to hear. Lastly here is the 618, got it 2 years ago in a box of pieces and finally got it running with all the help offered here.
Good evening fellas. I am picking up my G0602z at the UPS hub in the next few days (renting a trailer so I can drive it directly into my garage) anyway, I was looking at QCP as I won't have the patience for the stock one. Any suggestions? I realize it is a budget lathe so of course I'm not looking at a $1000 setup, but if it doesn't work well and isn't good at being....well, a quick change then....I A couple ideas, ALORIS & DORIAN. Also size/series. Now along with the post....the tools. Remeber, this is a whole new field for me. I understand the different types for different approaches/cuts, but brands/material? I need to get in ordering soon! Anything else that will make my life easier? Thanks as always!
I probably should have done my homework before buying these two items. Can anyone here tell me what attachment I need that will make these two compatible? The 711 came with a body clamp for a 1/4" diameter shaft and the 178 is rigged for an indicator with a dove tail.
I do a fair amount of 10-32 tapping on aluminum and it’s a hard going. I use a 5/32” drill which came as a set with the tap but I wonder if another drill size may do the job faster As an example I also tap a lot of M5 and I was using #19 drill which was also a hard going but I discover from a thread in another forum that an 11/64’ drill is much better and in it is. Is the 5/32” drill the best for 10-32 tap?
That machinetoolcollectionitius disease struck again. I picked up a 16" x 60" SB today. Came with a 12" 4 jaw, complete 5c collet set, with a nice tray, that someone set up to mount at the tail stock, or head stock. A well abused 8" 3 jaw (yes, thats a crack above the 5 &6). a spare 8" backing plate, the wrenches for the saddle and tail stock locks, and a 4 way tool post. And most of a steady rest(missing the fingers, but the knobs and all are all there). The ways have a good bit of wear. The travel knob for the saddle needs a new bushing, or something, but is quite usable the way it is. Otherwise, all the gears look good. He never did any threading, so the threading dial was never engaged as long as he had it.
Scored some miscellanea this weekend. Can't figure out what the Ames indicator setup was used on. Only markings are the typical 'Pat. App'd' The brass Transit(?) item is rather neat. The logo on the pocket tape is cool I think. ...... ...... ...
Here's a "working" concept of a small shaper. The design goal is for it to work in the lathe via a toolholder in the toolpost or, on a small table-top fixture. The main use will be for cutting fairly small keyways in pulleys or gear bores. I'm also using this project to learn Fusion 360 after many years of Alibre CAD. The design is based on the classic Whitworth "Quick Return" slider/shaper mechanism. This is the first time I've used a CAD program for all the conceptual diagrams. I did not use a pencil or notepad for hand sketches like I usually do. I used pencil/paper only for a handful of trig problems and also to calculate the position, torque and speed of the slider rod given the small gear motor that was selected for the project. This diagram is no-where near what it will finally look like. This diagram only shows the mechanical model to prove-out the basic design. My design goal was to have a shaper that had an adjustable stroke up to 3.25". Fusion 360 has stress...
I have a 70's vintage Craftsman tool chest, a gift from my wife way back when. It has old metal-on-metal friction drawer slides that have never worked. It' a chore to get the drawers open. Upgrading to ball bearing slides seemed easy enough. But how to mount the new slides without welding? I'm no good at welding sheet metal, plus I didn't want to ruin the finish. The solution kept coming back - use wood. In a metal tool cabinet? It worked out well. The chest sides are more rigid with glued-in plywood, and maple slide mounts add strength. Here is an inside view of the 3-drawer chest with the old metal-on-metal friction slides. Here is a new ball bearing slide compared to the old friction ones. After cutting out the old slides, I had a cavity to fill and new slide mounts to install. I used 3/4" baltic birch plywood and glued it to the chest using polyurethane construction adhesive, then glued 1/2" hard maple to the plywood for the mounts. Here are the new slides...
After falling down the mini lathe rabbit hole I discovered yet another one when the enablers on this site ganged up on me. After being amazed by how well the tool worked that @ttabbal ground and sent to me I set out to be able to grind my own. Then came a 1000 PM's back and forth with @mikey on what I needed for a sander and exactly how to go about the actual grinding. Once I got @mikey 's models from @Z2V I wanted to get a grinder set up correctly ASAP. So thanks to @mikey , @ttabbal and @Z2V for throwing me over this cliff. I'm a total machining newbie. Definitely just a hobby for me but I like to have the right tools for whatever I'm doing. I simply could not justify spending $500+ on a nice sander nor did I want to invest the time to build one from scratch so I started researching one that I could afford. Enter the Dayton 6Y945 2x42/disc sander. It's available from multiple suppliers but I opted to get mine at Grainger. They had a good price ($149.50) and my local store is 2...
I have in the past tried to use my import metal stamp kit with little or no success. The numbers never seem to be in a straight line with some up and some down. Trying to keep them positioned correctly is almost impossible and the spacing between them is never right. some are stamped too hard and others are not hard enough. So I decided I would have a go at making a holder that would rigidly hold and space them correctly for marking on round stock. A couple of years back I made a rotary table ( https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/simple-rotary-table.53051/#post-448014 ) and it would be ideal for setting the spacing just right for each number. I made some brackets from 1" X 1/4" aluminum stock for the supports and mounted them on the rotary table. I made the stamp holder and retainer from aluminum also. I wanted a way to always hit the stamp with the same force so a added a 5/16' X 7" long threaded rod for the steel slide hammer to run on. I also added an side screw...
Spring time in Michigan so time to get back into the shop to reproduce more Erector set parts. The part here is Erector part# CQ slotted coupling. It’s a 5/16” diameter piece of brass 5/8” long. It has 6-32 and 8-32 tapped holes and a slot for attaching a flat strip to the cylindrical bushing. I’ll start with the obligatory Erector history lesson . . . The CQ was introduced in 1924 and was included in just the largest set sold (No. 10). Its function was to connect a 5/32” diameter rod to a flat strip. Wow, exciting . . . I looked through the No. 10 manual from 1924 and found 7 or 8 models that used the part. So, not a widely used part. However, collectors of Erector sets strive to complete their sets with complete inventories of all the parts as it left the factory, so small as the market may be, there actually is one. The CQ’s most prominent use was in the classic Hudson locomotive model. Two were used in the locomotive model (one per side). Function was to connect...
I really like these clock movements as they are self contained, good quality, and not too expensive. I used one in my Grandfather clock I made last month. https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/grandfather-clock-shrunk.69286/#post-580047 They come in several different styles and sizes. I am using the 3.5 inch model here. I have a couple of automotive a/c dryers from the 1980s that I had saved to maybe someday make something out of. So I cut the dryer in half and trued it up in the lathe. The inside of the tube was about 0.300 larger then the clock so I rolled a piece of this 0.135 thick flat steel into a circle. I cut off the ends and hammered it close to round. It is an interference fit in the tube and the clock fits snugly inside. Can't believe it worked that well. For the base I turned a couple of steps on a 3" piece of aluminum and drilled and taped for a 1/4 X28 thread and cut it off about 1" thick. I had apiece of 1/2" X 0.090...
I have an early model PM 45 mill that has the manual hand crank for Z elevation. Since I just reorganized my shop and a toolbox is placed nearby, I'm going to attempt to convert it to powered elevation using a heavy duty gear motor that I've had for a long while. I'm not 100% sure this will work to my satisfaction. The odds are maybe 70%... We'll see. I'll outline the design considerations as we go. Here's some pictures and explanations... Here's the mill with crank handle removed. I put a wrench on the shaft flat and roughly measured the torque needed to raise the head. Holding the wrench about 1 foot (little less actually) from the point of rotation, I measured about 8-10 lbs to move it. This was measured by setting weights on the wrench which is a little inaccurate. Anyhow, I'm assuming it needs 10 ft.lbs to keep it in motion. Here's a gear motor purchased at a surplus shop that I've had laying around for years. This motor is used in mobile-home campers to...
Being motivated by Mikey's great instruction on tool grinding, I dove in today and seems I was reasonably successful. Success (I think?) grinding a turning (square) tool. I'm sure it would be easier with the models on hand, but wanted to try it just based on Mike's pictures and descriptions. I think I'm close (it seemed to work very well in brass, just ok on 303 stainless) I installed the platen on my 1x42 belt grinder. It's just steel, but seems flat. Set the table to 15° Laid out the geometry on the blank. I reused a MoMax blank, so it looks a little funky, but I think I got the tip geometry correct. After grinding the shape, I honed the cutting surfaces on 80um diamond film and finished with a 6000 grit water stone. Here are the results on brass: Short curls. Still a lot of glitter--think I need to take deeper cuts?
Dear All, It has been too long since I visited! So, I have decided to post a POTD. I am just starting to build Elmer's Grasshopper beam steam engine model. The first task I tried was the flywheel. I changed the plans a bit, as I decided to go with a 3.5" flywheel instead of the 3" flywheel the drawings call for. More mass should make for a better grass...hopper. I had previously made the flywheel blank. It is 3.5" in diameter, 7/16" thick, with a .400 wide rim and a 3/4" tapered hub. The spoke area is recessed to make the web 1/8" thick. The project was to cut the spokes. The flywheel has six tapered spokes. With my rotary table and DRO, straight spokes are pretty easy, but the math for getting a tapered spoke was escaping me. So I found this document, which helped a ton. His whole website is full of useful info. Even with the help, most of the shop time was doing the math and checking it twice. I then did a few test cuts on some cereal box cardboard. Anhoo, here are some...
Just a small project I've been tinkering with for a couple of days... its an aluminum mount to hang a GPS in my truck. I hate the suction cup mounts and don't like any of the other available mounts any better, so I kinda came up with my own design. And the (almost) finished product... I still have to finish mounting it, but I think its going to work pretty well. -Bear
I wanted to use aluminum for this project, 10mm thick would have done the job but I had no idea where to souurce that size sheet from; however, I did have some sheets of 25 mm Delrin so I thought I'd have a bit of a play with that medium. Delrin turns nicely giving a nice finish, but when grinding and filing the finish is quite rough. I expect some more work in this area to neaten the project up a little. I cut a rough shape from a largish slab and set about shaping it with a finger file. The hole for the motor was turned on the lathe, this necessitated making the handle a little shorter than I'd like. As it turned out the handle fits the hand quite comfortably. I cut a slot just forward of the handle and tapped a hole from the top of the blank for clamping the motor in place. Next I mounted a small piece of Delrin in the four jaw and drilled a 10mm hole for the front wheel mount. After mounting the motor, I spun up a small piece of Delrin and sunk it into the drive drum and...
I love my new vertex bs-0 dividing head. It opened up a whole new world of possibilities for me. I know this has probably been posted a gazillion times,but I feel like sharing. Today I made myself a dovetail cutter using two TCMT 16T308 MP NC 3225 inserts with a positive rake and 7degree relief angle. I did not take enough pics for this post.....was enjoying myself too much. What you don't see is, I've set my dividing head 30degr. out of parallel to my mill bed to get the right angle for the insert and tilt the DH 2degrees down to get a positive axial rake. I didn't want to go too big on that angle because of the 7 degr. relief angle,I do not want the insert to drag. The DH allowed me to machine the two insert landings at the same hight and depth 180 degrees appart. The cutter angle is 60degr. and the shaft diameter is 20mm (the bigger the better.) The head is about 38mm OD and shaft about 75mm long. I do not have a job for it yet and are eager to try it out. Maby I wil...
A few years ago I helped a friend that was converting a Toyota Echo from gas to electric. I made a steel plate for the transmission housing that mounted the big electric motor, and a coupler to connect the two shafts. During the conversion he changed from a hydraulic power steering to an electric unit, which was hard to find. Recently, he discovered that the seals on the electric power steering unit had leaked, water got in and the integral bearing on the shaft was pretty rough: Since the electric steering gear was even harder to find now, he asked if I would attempt a repair. He bought a new standard bearing with internal and external races, the new OD matched the old. The plain round part of the shaft was 17.5mm and he found a new bearing with a 17mm ID. I turned down that part of the shaft and shoulder where the old bearing ran. I was concerned about how hard the shaft might be since it was the original inner race, but a carbide lathe tool cut it well. Here it is...
I have an two grinder sharpening station in my machine shop but i don't have a bench grinder in my big garage. looked around and the bigger 200-250 mm stone size grinders are pricey so i thought why not build one the size i need and of course make it more powerful. After considering couple of belt driven designs decided to make it direct drive but to use a 2Kw (2 3/4 Hp) 2800 rpm motor out of an old pressure washer, first thing i did after digging out the motor out of the shed was to disassemble it and chamfer, then drill the output shaft, then i made a shaft to slip in it, made this shaft way over size. Then i Mig weld it allowing the weld to melt in down to the root, then i chuck it up flatten the end, centre drill the end then supported it with a live centre. Allowing extra material helps if it moves when welding. then i took couple heavy and progressively lighter cuts do bring it down to M12, this side will turn clockwise so i used right hand threads, at this point i stopped...