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Home Page - Projects and Articles on Our Forum!

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Working With Plastics

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Some people are not very familiar working with plastics. So we will continuously be adding useful info about plastics, here are few first ones we put together: Joining and Gluing ABS Painting parts with molded-in colors - a great partnership. Your Guide To ABS Drop us a note if you find this info useful. If you have more questions/topics you'd like us to cover in future posts, please respond to this thread or submit suggestion on our website using this form
The Power of Smallᵀᴹ
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Do you remember the time when most of the things were made here, they were durable, repairable and they would last for a very long time? Do you remember the time when shop and other hands-on trades training were part of the school curriculum? And you also probably remember when all this deteriorated, was bought and moved oversees and centralized by mega corporations... And this is great for few industries, but for a lot of small shop and inventors, makers and hobbyists, there is a real need in local distributed manufacturing. We are looking for your help to spread the word about our new initiative which we call "The Power of Small". What is The Power of Smallᵀᴹ ? • Small businesses doing big projects with low amounts of capital; • Office-desk sized machines making large parts - 100lbs and more; • On-shore, distributed manufacturing on a national or international scale; • Converting 100% waste plastics directly into viable finished goods - affordably and locally; • A...

Clausing 1771 Drill Press Restoration

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I picked up a Clausing variable speed drill press from a Craigslist ad. I offered the guy $200.00 and he accepted. The drill press was in decent overall condition, and had a new motor on it. I disassembled the machine and cleaned up and painted everything. Mechanically, it was in very good condition, and the only real repair work I did was to straighten a few of the handle arms. One really nice feature is the table lift, which works great on that heavy table (btw: the table doesn't have a single drill mark in it!) This is my second Clausing variable speed drill press. The first one is in my metal shop, this one will be in my wood shop. Jack Fort Loramie, Ohio
Rebuilding the head on a South Bend 4219 1956 mill
VN Finally Got A Slotter Attachment
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Finally picked up a slotter attachment that I have been looking for. Probably paid a bit much, but it's practically new. Stripped it and cleaned out the old gunk. Back together already, quickest rebuild yet. Missing one oil cap and the arbor, but I have a print for the arbor. All I did was clean it. Jason

Working With Plastics

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Some people are not very familiar working with plastics. So we will continuously be adding useful info about plastics, here are few first ones we put together: Joining and Gluing ABS Painting parts with molded-in colors - a great partnership. Your Guide To ABS Drop us a note if you find this info useful. If you have more questions/topics you'd like us to cover in future posts, please respond to this thread or submit suggestion on our website using this form

Unique Chess Set

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Just when you thought "what else can be done with the chess set", a new idea comes along... This is what a chess set using Plasti-Block™ ABS dual color rods could look like. Other color combinations can also be fun! Let us know what else would you like to see modeled using this product. We are looking forward to hear your ideas. Plasti-Block™ Team
Unique Two-Layered Chess Set.

A Nice Gear Tutorial #1

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I'm going to make some gears soon and came across this while brushing-up and refreshing my memory. Of course, the Machinist's Handbook has it all but, this is a very nicely authored and to-the-point tutorial. This is based on Diametral Pitch and not the Module method. I have some other guides based on Module method but need to check the copyright information. Enjoy... Ray

Making Frank's Cranks

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Finally got around to taking some photos of my process as I make some of my string winding cranks. Here's one with a koa handle: These cranks feature a soft head made of low density polyethylene, an angle of 83-degrees to simulate wrist rotation, and a solid bearing in the handle. Interestingly, one of the first questions I get about them is, "How do you achieve that angle?" So, I'll start the description with that in mind. . . The only commercially made part is the little brass ball, which I drill almost all the way through with a 6.4mm drill that gives me a .252: hole, making for a nice sliding fit for a 1/4" precision ground aluminum rod: Here, I'm using my tiny Rusnok milling machine. I have the ball set into a matching cavity I milled by plunging with sa 1/2" ball end mill into the steel soft jaws on my old 4" Kurt vise. By the way, I get my soft jaws for vises and chucks from monsterjaws.com - no affiliation - they sell CNC made jaws for about what I'd pay for raw...
Making a couple of threaded spindle backing plates for my lathe
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When I sold my Atlas 10F24, I held on to my Bison 5” 3J, as it was fairly new. Naturally I needed to make a new backing plate to mount it onto the new lathe. The old plate was 1 1/2” X 8 while the new spindle is 2 1/4” X 8, so I needed new metal to do this. I recently purchased 2 backing plates from Busy Bee Tools. They are 8” semi raw castings. They are turned to clean off the rough cast surface and the center hole is 1” ID unthreaded. First I started by reading up on what could be the rights and wrongs in making these backing plates. Recent posting here by various people, too many to list, have been of excellent help. I make a copy of my spindle, so that I had a plug to try the threads as they neared finish size. I used the 3 wire method to make the plug match the spindle. Once the readings were the same between the two, I was finished. I did stamp the diameter and tpi for future reference. I am making two backing plates. One for the above Bison chuck and the second for...

Bought a Sharp LMV-50, Has ISO30 Taper-Need help

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Hello, (Edit, it's a LMV with a 42" table, not a 50) I am trying to find a keyless chuck that will mount to my mill. (Sharp LMV 50-3HP 9x42) I found NMTB 30 and ISO30. I found a NMTB30 keyless chuck but no ISO30 keyless chuck. What about an ER40 chuck with a set of collets? Will the NMTB 30 keyless chuck mount in my ISO 30 spindle? Thank you, Jeff

Question about threading on a lathe

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I have watched a few videos and believe I understand the basics of threading on a lathe. My Grizzly mini-lathe has a threading dial and change gears so I'm pretty sure I'm ready to try to actually cut some threads on it. I understand the difference between watching a video and actually making chips and I fully expect to deal with a learning curve. My question, however, is about my Seneca Star 30 lathe. It has a threading chart on an embossed plate and what appears to be a full set of change gears and I get how all that works. What has me scratching my head is the fact that there is no threading dial on the apron. This leaves me with three questions. I suspect I know the answers as unhappy as that makes me: 1. Is there a way to cut threads without a threading dial? (I suspect not.) 2. Is it likely that the lathe came with a threading dial and it has been removed at some point? (I suspect so.) 3. If I'm correct about Number 2, what are the chances that I can find a...

Enco Mill - motor takes a few tries to get to full speed

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Hello experts, I have my Enco mill (RF30) up and running and have an annoying problem. When I turn the switch (forward or reverse, doesn't matter), the motor immediately kicks on and comes up to about 1/3 speed, then stalls or "pulses" at about that speed. It must pull a ton of current, as I have managed to trip the breaker once. I turn it off, wait a few seconds, try again. Usually after 3-4 tries it fires up and goes to full speed. The motor is a 2HP, currently wired for 110v, since I don't have a 220v option in my garage. The motor is a dual capacitor model. I'm wondering if it could be something like a bad run capacitor? I'm not a motor expert by any means. The contacts on the switch look OK, and all connections are tight, as far as I can tell. Since it does fire up and run smoothly after a few tries, that should mean that the coils are OK, right? Any advice is appreciated. If you are a fellow RF30/Enco owner, and have a source for a motor or motor parts, let me...

Gibbs Brand Lubricant?

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Not sure where to post this, so I figured the Q&A is as good a place as any. Recently I came across Gibbs Brand Lubricant. Most of the information I find on it reads or sounds like an infomercial or a booth at the state fair--it cleans, deoxidizes, protects, yada yada yada. The few non-advertising things I find on it generally support the claims (146 customer reviews on Amazon predominantly 5 stars). http://www.roadsters.com/gibbs/ https://www.amazon.com/Gibbs-Brand-Lubricant-2-12oz-cans/dp/B00AFJXIJQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1544454533&sr=8-1&keywords=gibbs+brand+lubricant I'm looking for something that will clean and detail the polished aluminum parts on a car--wheels, valve covers, etc. and hopefully help prevent future oxidation, water spotting, etc. It's not that expensive, and I think I'll try a couple cans, but thought I'd ask here for experience with it. Evan

Carbide inserts how many spares and price versus quality

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I am looking at buying a 8 mm shank parting off tool that uses a GTN 2 insert. This is from a UK supplier. I am a hobby user and will probably part off no more than 20 items a year. Working mostly with brass ali and delrin with the odd item in cast iron, leaded steel or 303 stainless. So I am thinking that a couple of spares will be enough. I can buy from the UK supplier of my parting toll and they charge $ 4.30 for one. Being a tight Scots git I checked the online price. I could get 10 for $ 6.99 on Ebay or 1 for $17 US supplier. Curiously the label on the cheapies gave the same US manufacturer as the $17 one. I checked Banggod but they don't seem to do them. So my questions Will 2 spares be enough. Bear in mind I live on a sailboat wandering around the Eastern Caribbean and my delivery logistics can be convoluted Is there a benefit on having a tin coating. and the sixty four dollar question is the $17 insert 25 times better than the 70 cent one. Or do they all come...

Got drool?

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Awesome, just awesome tools and machines

Just another Electronic Amateur with some TreadMill questions

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My 1440 is down for repairs, so then I attempted to use the Logan and the old 1/2HP dual shaft Craftsman 'vintage' motor is really acting up. With my score this weekend I now have (3) sets of treadmills laying around, and I'm trying to find a path to take. And the current theme these past couple of months is that I'm having to attempt this with what materials I have on hand. I've got these two boxes that I scrounged a while back and would like to know if the components would work. These boxes have a 50K PEC Potentiometer in them, can I use them or are they the wrong size/type? I read one thread that said 5K-100K is OK but I didn't see any details. If they will work I want to gather all the pieces and parts I have and verify what works or doesn't as the case may be. Thanks, _Dan ........

Hand Scraper Design

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I'm monkeying around with making a scraper to repair the cross-slide on the 1440 and would appreciate some input from those that use them. I'm attempting to do this with materials that I have on-hand. The lathe crapped out at very a inconvenient time. I had to take a pass on a decent bit of side work because with the stick-slip, I messed up the first three pieces. So the budget is hurting. Richard sent me a copy of Keith Rucker's design. (Thanks Richard!) I have a couple of questions about the design. I've got a few pieces of 3/4" Sqr. carbide inserts that I'm trying to make do with. I realize that they are really not wide enough, however it's all I've come up with. On Keith's design on the insert extension piece, the flat on the end is at 2° positive. Does anyone know why? I'm wondering if it can be 'straight'. .......... Here's my first take on it using the 3/4" insert. I'm making a couple of needed ergonomic / handling modifications to it. I made up a mock-up out of a file...
The Power of Smallᵀᴹ
  • 884
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Do you remember the time when most of the things were made here, they were durable, repairable and they would last for a very long time? Do you remember the time when shop and other hands-on trades training were part of the school curriculum? And you also probably remember when all this deteriorated, was bought and moved oversees and centralized by mega corporations... And this is great for few industries, but for a lot of small shop and inventors, makers and hobbyists, there is a real need in local distributed manufacturing. We are looking for your help to spread the word about our new initiative which we call "The Power of Small". What is The Power of Smallᵀᴹ ? • Small businesses doing big projects with low amounts of capital; • Office-desk sized machines making large parts - 100lbs and more; • On-shore, distributed manufacturing on a national or international scale; • Converting 100% waste plastics directly into viable finished goods - affordably and locally; • A...

Scores from this past summer season

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Didn't get much of a chance to post this summer/fall so I'm playing catch-up. Tooling budget has been tight so I avoided going to sales. Freebies. Haven't plugged in the Servo yet, wiring is iffy and I want to tear it down and verify it's condition. Not even sure if it will fit the BP. Going to have to start a thread on it when I find out. A face plate (D1-4) for the Birmingham, and a stock stop for the mill. ... -=- The Auction where that South Bend Lathe that I posted about was at. I bid on this just for the Tach, didn't pay much attention to the Calipers until I picked it up. They are 8" Mitutoyo's! Also scored a lot of (3) dremels, all but one were toast. They was also a pack of router bits from HF that they included... $24 -=- Estate Sale where the owner had owned a hardware store. Snagged all this for $26. -=- Estate Sale where the Gent worked for AT&T. Most of the stuff has 'Bell System Property' on them. Came to ~$40. Honey treated, she had scored a ton of...

Flycutting issues...??

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I’m having a problem on a BP mill, flycutting any metal, where it’s cutting heavier on one side , X axis, even after tramming the mill and indicating the vise. This is on subsequent passes after making the top flat. What could be the problem? Am I incorrectly tramming the table? Could the table be warped or the vise bed? Parallels? The table is not in great shape but I was able to tram it, so what could I be doing wrong? BP vari speed J head. R8 fly cutter. Cheap Chinese lathe tool. Parlec vise (not in good condition. Spindle run out? (Need to check). What can I look for? Thanks

Tactical Error - There ARE times when lube is a bad thing...

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I acquired an ancient Seneca Falls Star 30 Lathe. There's a separate thread on that story. One of the first problems that came up was that the compound angle adjust wouldn't lock. After asking around and fussing with it some, I discovered that the original locking set screw had broken in the hole. I extracted the remnants, chased the threads with a bottoming tap, dropped a new screw in and got it to lock. I thought. I came into some windfall money and used it to buy a new Shars AXA QCTP. After machining the nut to fit the slot on my compound, I installed it and as I was tightening the nut on the QCTP, the compound moved. Tightened the set screw until I was worried about ripping the threads out of the casting and it STILL moved. What the...??? Got to looking at it a little more closely and figured out that what I thought was the post it rotates on was actually MORE of the original set screw! Fiddled around trying to fish it out of there with a pick and did get it to turn...

Stanko 6560

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Visit my friend in his workshop and he wanted to sell his Russian mill from 1980 12 Metric ton of russian steel Technical data: Technical data: - Control: pushbutton from the suspended desktop - cutting diameter: up to 315 mm - Main engine power: 13 kW - 18-speed gearbox: 4.1 kW - The ability to turn the head: + -30 - vertical travel: 125-750 mm - cross-section: 10-1500 mm - longitudinal motion: 355-985 mm - Work desk table: 1600x630 - machine dimensions (length x width x height): 3205x4140x3120 mm

Vintage Manuals and Information

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This site has been posted a couple of times in other threads but mostly just for a specific machine. Thought I'd post it with a title that will show up easily in a site search. Rather a varied range of info, mostly lathes with some other cool stuff. http://pounceatron.dreamhosters.com/docs/ This one was neat, "hitchcocks machine tool list jan 1906": http://pounceatron.dreamhosters.com/docs/catalogs/hitchcocks-machine-tool-list-jan-1906.pdf Shows machines and accessories from said year. There's a couple in there I'd sure like to score.

Shop Wiring

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I’ll start by qualifying that I am a general contractor with over 30 years of experience in home building and renovation. I’m well versed in household electrical so I’m good on means, methods, codes and safety. In the spring of next year I’m having a local contractor insulate and drywall my new (to me) shop at our Oregon property. The shop is 28’ x 32’. It currently has a subpanel feed by a 60 amp breaker with #4 wire. There are 110v convenience outlets every 4’ around the perimeter walls about 4’ off the floor. These are divided on three separate 20 amp breakers. I need to get the wiring sorted out before finishing the interior can begin and I’m waffling about the best way to proceed. My current plan is to run a feeder to another subpanel on the opposite side of the shop to feed the circuits on that side which would cut down the amount of wire needed to be run from one location. All the 220v circuits would be surface run in conduit after the walls are finished. I just don’t...

Posting for sale items

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I have posted some items for sale and I don't see the posts show up when I look at "What's New" or "New Posts" sections. Should they show up or is it set up not to? Just curious.

Making an internal keyway without a broach?

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Can it be done? I suspect not, but I figured if anyone knew a way, they'd be here. :) I need to make a spacer to go between two pulleys on a 1" shaft with a 1/4 key.

A sloppy RF-45 mill/drill

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I bought a RF-45 that had been CNCed , and I put it back to manual use. After milling some slots of a motor mount, I'm getting little tired of the drama. The combination of a powerful motor and a gearhead exposes the center wear on the X-axis . No belts to slip. I've adjusted the gib so it's tight, almost too tight at the ends. I bought it used with a lathe for good deal. Since this is not a Bridgeport, I won't end up with a $20,000 machine, even if I get it perfect. Nor could I afford the tooling to arrive at that point. Nor am I looking for perfection, it's a used mill/drill for heaven's sake .I'm a retired miilwright, on a budget, but not unhandy. So my question , what tools can get away with and where to find them. I have a cheap BusyBee (Canadian Grizzly) granite 12x18 surfaceplate used for layout and a couple of babbit bearing scrapers.

How to get Near-Chrome Finish on 303 Stainless?

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I just finished 4 stand-offs for a vintage auto luggage rack. I sanded them to 500 grit, then polished with Flitz on the lathe, but they don't have the mirror sheen I'm looking for. I'm wondering if getting a Harbor Freight tumbler would be a way to get the desired finish? If so, what series of media should I use? This is what I have: This what I want them to look like: Thanks in advance! Evan

Threading help

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Is there a formula for figuring out the major diameter of a custom thread? For example: I have a tube that is 1.384 inside diameter and I internal thread it 32 TPI. How do I determine what size to turn the OD of the male part prior to threading it?

Difficult access carbide

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Hello all. I need to turn into a location about 14mm long with a shoulder each end that prevents me using triangular or diamond shaped inserts. The material is Rockwell hardness of around 60 so normal tool steel won't do the job otherwise I could grind up something suitable. Specifically it is a running surface for needle rollers and the shoulder at each end is to contain the rollers. What can I use please? What about a carbide parting insert? Thanks Doug

Best Way to Mill an Angle?

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I need to mill a 7º and 11º angle on the base of a round stand-off. While I could tilt the head of my mill, I'd rather not have to re-tram. What are other ways to hold a round piece in a vise at an angle for milling? This is what I have: This is what I need: Thanks in advance.

Turning very small aluminum rod

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I need to take an Al rod and turn it down to make two pieces about 100 thousandths diameter by 350 thousandths long. Tolerances need to be no better than 5 thousandths or so, that part's easy. I have some ~0.5" rod stock to start with. I'm guessing that if I just turn it down to that diameter it will flex quite a lot and I'll have some problems before I even get to 100 thousandths. Any advice on the best approach on this before I create a lot of scrap? Or, am I worrying about nothing, it will be easy, and I should quite typing and just get on with it? :grin:

303 Stainless Turning--Speeds/Feeds?

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I'm turning a set of stand-offs for a vintage automotive luggage rack out of 303 SS. The stand-offs are 1.25" Diameter turned down to 0.625" diameter. I'm using an AXA-16 carbide holder with Terra Carbide 22-100-047 | TPG321 APC5T 60° Coated Triangle / Indexable Carbide Turning Insert. I'm getting decent results, but things seem happiest taking a 0.020" deep cut at the slowest turning and feed speed on my Logan lathe. I've heard that carbide likes to take a deep cut, so I tried deeper and faster cuts, but it just generates a lot of smoke and heat and long stringy chips. At the slower shallower cuts, I alternate between getting C-shaped chips and 2-4 inch strings. Should I just go with what seems to work? I tried steel cutting fluid and the blue water-based soap-like lube (Anchor Lube?)--both stunk to high heaven. Without any lube and cutting slowly with a 0.020" depth of cut things get warm but don't stink.

Soule Steam Feed Works: Machine Shop Tour!

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Soule Steam Feed Works: Machine Shop Tour! Meridian, Mississippi. Found it on Adam Booth's YouTube channel, Abom 79 Part 1: Part 2: Web page: http://www.soulelivesteam.com/museum.html

Morse taper drill bits...is there a market?

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I bought some goodies from a guy yesterday and one thing I may go back for is a bucket of Morse taper drill bits. I have no idea at this point which taper and just from a quick look I think they were mostly larger sizes, probably from a local factory. Is there a market for these?

Couple of questions about a small engine

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Last sunday i visited a tool/flea market and bought this lawn mower engine. You can read the label, is a Italian copy of 3,5 hp tecumseh engine, i've changed the oil, checked it has strong spark, new spark plug fresh gasoline, and then i tryed and start it, it kicks back, also i heard couple of loud pops from the exhaust, the flywheel is aluminium and it doesn't have blade, i've heard on some engine blade acts like a flywheel is this the case here and can i turn this engine and use it i vertical configuration without taking it apart ?

Sieg X2.7 (LMS 5500): X-Y axis locking problems

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Greets to all! Have been using the mill off and on for some time now - VERY nice piece 'o kit (as the Brits would say). Recently I've been having an odd issue: when I tighten the X-axis locking screw (front of table) the Y-Axis locks up as well! Just took out all the X-Y gibs, cleaned and stoned, returned - Problem still persists. I would think with one axis locked, the other should move freely. Not quite - I can lock Y-axis (side, under table) and X still moves fine. But if I tighten the X-axis lock (front) BOTH axis's lock up! Any ideas what might be going on?

Phase converter vs VFD

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I know these questions come up but I need some input. So far I have the Bridgeport mill on a VFD. Now I need to power the lathe and the surface grinder. The question is to keep going VFD or to buy a rotary phase converter. Literature says I need a 15hp VFD for a 7.5hp lathe. I was hoping to get a 10hp RPC and use the existing 40amp circuit its on. If I go RPC, I need to pull another wire and it would be worth it to run a 3phase panel and distribute power. OR I can just buy 2 more VFD's. Total price for VFD's (Im running 2 chinese ones now) its about $500. The RPC is $900 (10hp...$1300 15hp) and need a panel and misc electrical supplies. If I run VFD's, I can skip the new power pull, panel, etc. I actually may be able to get away with a single VFD for both the lathe and the surface grinder because they are both 7.5hp units. Any input?

how to cut a taper thread

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What is the process for cutting a taper thread? I am guessing I would need to use my taper attachment.

fusion 360 or solid works

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I have no formal training and everything I have learned about machining has come from members here, you tube, and trial and error. With that being said, which program would you recommend someone like me? I have never used any type of design software but it would be nice to print out a set of prints vs drawing them.

Question for you tool lovers

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If you had to start over, to replace your equipment and power/hand tools. How much money would it take? I need to come up with a budget. Excluding the lathe and mill, I think at least $25,000 for hand and power tools and another $7,500 for lathe/milling accessories. New lathe and mill, $18,000. Welding and plasma, $6,500 What say you?
How-To Videos
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We post at least 1 short video a week, help us with topics that you might like us to cover on YouTube channel. Plastics are more flexible than metals or wood How to Square a Plastic Block Machining plastics - long and strong chips of material How to clamp a plastic block into a vise

Enco 13X40 Cracked Top Slide Way

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There is a crack in back of the top slide and the way is bent. Should I try and braze this back together? The rest of the lathe is in pretty good condition. Sharpie line to show crack.

The Plasti-Block YouTube Channel Is Now Live!

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The Plasti-Block YouTube Channel Is Now Live! Following a number of inquiries about our plastics including what type to choose and how to use them, we decided it would be beneficial to create an information hub from which we can share our knowledge and experience with you. We have chosen to start a YouTube channel as videos are an excellent way to show, in detail, the many aspects of machining plastics that you may not have previously known or considered. While text and pictures have their own advantages, videos allow you to focus on the nuances in a way that these other forms cannot accurately convey. Our YouTube channel is aimed at everyone. We uploaded first 4 very short and very basic videos. The plan is to create videos from how-to and tutorials to safety and best practices. We aim to add video content to our channel on a weekly basis. I really hope that you’d be interested to give us a feedback/suggestions/provocations for topics about machining plastic, as it is vital in...
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