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Clausing 1771 Drill Press Restoration

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I picked up a Clausing variable speed drill press from a Craigslist ad. I offered the guy $200.00 and he accepted. The drill press was in decent overall condition, and had a new motor on it. I disassembled the machine and cleaned up and painted everything. Mechanically, it was in very good condition, and the only real repair work I did was to straighten a few of the handle arms. One really nice feature is the table lift, which works great on that heavy table (btw: the table doesn't have a single drill mark in it!) This is my second Clausing variable speed drill press. The first one is in my metal shop, this one will be in my wood shop. Jack Fort Loramie, Ohio
Rebuilding the head on a southbound miles 4219 1956 mill
VN Finally Got A Slotter Attachment
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Finally picked up a slotter attachment that I have been looking for. Probably paid a bit much, but it's practically new. Stripped it and cleaned out the old gunk. Back together already, quickest rebuild yet. Missing one oil cap and the arbor, but I have a print for the arbor. All I did was clean it. Jason

A Nice Gear Tutorial #1

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I'm going to make some gears soon and came across this while brushing-up and refreshing my memory. Of course, the Machinist's Handbook has it all but, this is a very nicely authored and to-the-point tutorial. This is based on Diametral Pitch and not the Module method. I have some other guides based on Module method but need to check the copyright information. Enjoy... Ray

Making Frank's Cranks

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Finally got around to taking some photos of my process as I make some of my string winding cranks. Here's one with a koa handle: These cranks feature a soft head made of low density polyethylene, an angle of 83-degrees to simulate wrist rotation, and a solid bearing in the handle. Interestingly, one of the first questions I get about them is, "How do you achieve that angle?" So, I'll start the description with that in mind. . . The only commercially made part is the little brass ball, which I drill almost all the way through with a 6.4mm drill that gives me a .252: hole, making for a nice sliding fit for a 1/4" precision ground aluminum rod: Here, I'm using my tiny Rusnok milling machine. I have the ball set into a matching cavity I milled by plunging with sa 1/2" ball end mill into the steel soft jaws on my old 4" Kurt vise. By the way, I get my soft jaws for vises and chucks from monsterjaws.com - no affiliation - they sell CNC made jaws for about what I'd pay for raw...

A Head Alignment Process for a PM1340GT

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I moved my PM1340GT to its permanent position and leveled it. The PM1340GT is meant to be leveled and then the headstock aligned using its adjustable mount. This post is about the head and tailstock alignment methods I used. I recognize that this is not the only way to do it nor have I invented anything new. I am just trying to share the process I used for others who might find it helpful. Key to the process I settled on are a good four jaw chuck, a 1” precision ground steel test bar, and a 2”diameter aluminum bar for test cuts. The sequence I used: Aligned the tailstock using the “quick method”. Aligned the head using my four jaw chuck, a 1” round precision ground bar, and the Rollie’s Dad Method. (Note: if you aren’t familiar with the RDM, google it and you will find lots of info) Realigned the tailstock using the quick method. Turned a 2” diameter aluminum test bar with two collars using 4 jaw chuck and between centers. I did test cuts with the 2” two collar bar...
Making a couple of threaded spindle backing plates for my lathe
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When I sold my Atlas 10F24, I held on to my Bison 5” 3J, as it was fairly new. Naturally I needed to make a new backing plate to mount it onto the new lathe. The old plate was 1 1/2” X 8 while the new spindle is 2 1/4” X 8, so I needed new metal to do this. I recently purchased 2 backing plates from Busy Bee Tools. They are 8” semi raw castings. They are turned to clean off the rough cast surface and the center hole is 1” ID unthreaded. First I started by reading up on what could be the rights and wrongs in making these backing plates. Recent posting here by various people, too many to list, have been of excellent help. I make a copy of my spindle, so that I had a plug to try the threads as they neared finish size. I used the 3 wire method to make the plug match the spindle. Once the readings were the same between the two, I was finished. I did stamp the diameter and tpi for future reference. I am making two backing plates. One for the above Bison chuck and the second for...

First real part...parting woes!

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Been awhile since posting so I thought Id share the first actual part I made on a lathe that actually will serve a purpose...drawbar spacer for the Atlas 618. Everything went well until I decided to try to part off, way too much chatter. I have the qctp from LMS and the blade type cutoff tool that fit in the tool holder. I will read up on the parting issue as I know there is much info here on this. I already understand I was running too fast to part off. I've only had this lathe running for a couple weeks so overall I was happy with the outcome. So thanks to all who contribute their knowledge here, without that I do not think I would have gotten this far so quickly. Any recommendation on alternative parting tools I would be interested to hear. Lastly here is the 618, got it 2 years ago in a box of pieces and finally got it running with all the help offered here.

Newb quick change tool post/tooling suggestions

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Good evening fellas. I am picking up my G0602z at the UPS hub in the next few days (renting a trailer so I can drive it directly into my garage) anyway, I was looking at QCP as I won't have the patience for the stock one. Any suggestions? I realize it is a budget lathe so of course I'm not looking at a $1000 setup, but if it doesn't work well and isn't good at being....well, a quick change then....I A couple ideas, ALORIS & DORIAN. Also size/series. Now along with the post....the tools. Remeber, this is a whole new field for me. I understand the different types for different approaches/cuts, but brands/material? I need to get in ordering soon! Anything else that will make my life easier? Thanks as always!

Tramming my Mill

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Does anyone see a problem with tramming like this. I like to use the vise as that is where my work is held. The parallels are 4-way Anton .0003" accurate on height, width and straightness.

Indicol 178 and Starrett Last Word 711

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I probably should have done my homework before buying these two items. Can anyone here tell me what attachment I need that will make these two compatible? The 711 came with a body clamp for a 1/4" diameter shaft and the 178 is rigged for an indicator with a dove tail.

Tapping for 10-32

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I do a fair amount of 10-32 tapping on aluminum and it’s a hard going. I use a 5/32” drill which came as a set with the tap but I wonder if another drill size may do the job faster As an example I also tap a lot of M5 and I was using #19 drill which was also a hard going but I discover from a thread in another forum that an 11/64’ drill is much better and in it is. Is the 5/32” drill the best for 10-32 tap?

SB 16X60

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That machinetoolcollectionitius disease struck again. I picked up a 16" x 60" SB today. Came with a 12" 4 jaw, complete 5c collet set, with a nice tray, that someone set up to mount at the tail stock, or head stock. A well abused 8" 3 jaw (yes, thats a crack above the 5 &6). a spare 8" backing plate, the wrenches for the saddle and tail stock locks, and a 4 way tool post. And most of a steady rest(missing the fingers, but the knobs and all are all there). The ways have a good bit of wear. The travel knob for the saddle needs a new bushing, or something, but is quite usable the way it is. Otherwise, all the gears look good. He never did any threading, so the threading dial was never engaged as long as he had it.

Estate Sale scores. And need to identify the Ames Indicator.

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Scored some miscellanea this weekend. Can't figure out what the Ames indicator setup was used on. Only markings are the typical 'Pat. App'd' The brass Transit(?) item is rather neat. The logo on the pocket tape is cool I think. ...... ...... ...

Talysurf 4

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Bought this

Table-Top or Toolpost Shaper

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Here's a "working" concept of a small shaper. The design goal is for it to work in the lathe via a toolholder in the toolpost or, on a small table-top fixture. The main use will be for cutting fairly small keyways in pulleys or gear bores. I'm also using this project to learn Fusion 360 after many years of Alibre CAD. The design is based on the classic Whitworth "Quick Return" slider/shaper mechanism. This is the first time I've used a CAD program for all the conceptual diagrams. I did not use a pencil or notepad for hand sketches like I usually do. I used pencil/paper only for a handful of trig problems and also to calculate the position, torque and speed of the slider rod given the small gear motor that was selected for the project. This diagram is no-where near what it will finally look like. This diagram only shows the mechanical model to prove-out the basic design. My design goal was to have a shaper that had an adjustable stroke up to 3.25". Fusion 360 has stress...

Upgrade Vintage Tool Chest with Ball Bearing Slides Using Plywood?? by Bill70j

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I have a 70's vintage Craftsman tool chest, a gift from my wife way back when. It has old metal-on-metal friction drawer slides that have never worked. It' a chore to get the drawers open. Upgrading to ball bearing slides seemed easy enough. But how to mount the new slides without welding? I'm no good at welding sheet metal, plus I didn't want to ruin the finish. The solution kept coming back - use wood. In a metal tool cabinet? It worked out well. The chest sides are more rigid with glued-in plywood, and maple slide mounts add strength. Here is an inside view of the 3-drawer chest with the old metal-on-metal friction slides. Here is a new ball bearing slide compared to the old friction ones. After cutting out the old slides, I had a cavity to fill and new slide mounts to install. I used 3/4" baltic birch plywood and glued it to the chest using polyurethane construction adhesive, then glued 1/2" hard maple to the plywood for the mounts. Here are the new slides...

Dayton 6Y945 2x42 belt sander mods for HSS tool grinding..

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After falling down the mini lathe rabbit hole I discovered yet another one when the enablers on this site ganged up on me. After being amazed by how well the tool worked that @ttabbal ground and sent to me I set out to be able to grind my own. Then came a 1000 PM's back and forth with @mikey on what I needed for a sander and exactly how to go about the actual grinding. Once I got @mikey 's models from @Z2V I wanted to get a grinder set up correctly ASAP. So thanks to @mikey , @ttabbal and @Z2V for throwing me over this cliff. I'm a total machining newbie. Definitely just a hobby for me but I like to have the right tools for whatever I'm doing. I simply could not justify spending $500+ on a nice sander nor did I want to invest the time to build one from scratch so I started researching one that I could afford. Enter the Dayton 6Y945 2x42/disc sander. It's available from multiple suppliers but I opted to get mine at Grainger. They had a good price ($149.50) and my local store is 2...

Metal Stamp Fixture

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I have in the past tried to use my import metal stamp kit with little or no success. The numbers never seem to be in a straight line with some up and some down. Trying to keep them positioned correctly is almost impossible and the spacing between them is never right. some are stamped too hard and others are not hard enough. So I decided I would have a go at making a holder that would rigidly hold and space them correctly for marking on round stock. A couple of years back I made a rotary table ( https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/simple-rotary-table.53051/#post-448014 ) and it would be ideal for setting the spacing just right for each number. I made some brackets from 1" X 1/4" aluminum stock for the supports and mounted them on the rotary table. I made the stamp holder and retainer from aluminum also. I wanted a way to always hit the stamp with the same force so a added a 5/16' X 7" long threaded rod for the steel slide hammer to run on. I also added an side screw...

Gilbert Erector set part number CQ slotted coupling

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Spring time in Michigan so time to get back into the shop to reproduce more Erector set parts. The part here is Erector part# CQ slotted coupling. It’s a 5/16” diameter piece of brass 5/8” long. It has 6-32 and 8-32 tapped holes and a slot for attaching a flat strip to the cylindrical bushing. I’ll start with the obligatory Erector history lesson . . . The CQ was introduced in 1924 and was included in just the largest set sold (No. 10). Its function was to connect a 5/32” diameter rod to a flat strip. Wow, exciting . . . I looked through the No. 10 manual from 1924 and found 7 or 8 models that used the part. So, not a widely used part. However, collectors of Erector sets strive to complete their sets with complete inventories of all the parts as it left the factory, so small as the market may be, there actually is one. The CQ’s most prominent use was in the classic Hudson locomotive model. Two were used in the locomotive model (one per side). Function was to connect...

Spotlight Clock

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I really like these clock movements as they are self contained, good quality, and not too expensive. I used one in my Grandfather clock I made last month. https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/grandfather-clock-shrunk.69286/#post-580047 They come in several different styles and sizes. I am using the 3.5 inch model here. I have a couple of automotive a/c dryers from the 1980s that I had saved to maybe someday make something out of. So I cut the dryer in half and trued it up in the lathe. The inside of the tube was about 0.300 larger then the clock so I rolled a piece of this 0.135 thick flat steel into a circle. I cut off the ends and hammered it close to round. It is an interference fit in the tube and the clock fits snugly inside. Can't believe it worked that well. For the base I turned a couple of steps on a 3" piece of aluminum and drilled and taped for a 1/4 X28 thread and cut it off about 1" thick. I had apiece of 1/2" X 0.090...

Power Z Conversion For PM45

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I have an early model PM 45 mill that has the manual hand crank for Z elevation. Since I just reorganized my shop and a toolbox is placed nearby, I'm going to attempt to convert it to powered elevation using a heavy duty gear motor that I've had for a long while. I'm not 100% sure this will work to my satisfaction. The odds are maybe 70%... We'll see. I'll outline the design considerations as we go. Here's some pictures and explanations... Here's the mill with crank handle removed. I put a wrench on the shaft flat and roughly measured the torque needed to raise the head. Holding the wrench about 1 foot (little less actually) from the point of rotation, I measured about 8-10 lbs to move it. This was measured by setting weights on the wrench which is a little inaccurate. Anyhow, I'm assuming it needs 10 ft.lbs to keep it in motion. Here's a gear motor purchased at a surplus shop that I've had laying around for years. This motor is used in mobile-home campers to...

Tool Grinding Experiment

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Being motivated by Mikey's great instruction on tool grinding, I dove in today and seems I was reasonably successful. Success (I think?) grinding a turning (square) tool. I'm sure it would be easier with the models on hand, but wanted to try it just based on Mike's pictures and descriptions. I think I'm close (it seemed to work very well in brass, just ok on 303 stainless) I installed the platen on my 1x42 belt grinder. It's just steel, but seems flat. Set the table to 15° Laid out the geometry on the blank. I reused a MoMax blank, so it looks a little funky, but I think I got the tip geometry correct. After grinding the shape, I honed the cutting surfaces on 80um diamond film and finished with a 6000 grit water stone. Here are the results on brass: Short curls. Still a lot of glitter--think I need to take deeper cuts?

Flywheel for Grasshopper Engine

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Dear All, It has been too long since I visited! So, I have decided to post a POTD. I am just starting to build Elmer's Grasshopper beam steam engine model. The first task I tried was the flywheel. I changed the plans a bit, as I decided to go with a 3.5" flywheel instead of the 3" flywheel the drawings call for. More mass should make for a better grass...hopper. I had previously made the flywheel blank. It is 3.5" in diameter, 7/16" thick, with a .400 wide rim and a 3/4" tapered hub. The spoke area is recessed to make the web 1/8" thick. The project was to cut the spokes. The flywheel has six tapered spokes. With my rotary table and DRO, straight spokes are pretty easy, but the math for getting a tapered spoke was escaping me. So I found this document, which helped a ton. His whole website is full of useful info. Even with the help, most of the shop time was doing the math and checking it twice. I then did a few test cuts on some cereal box cardboard. Anhoo, here are some...

GPS Mount

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Just a small project I've been tinkering with for a couple of days... its an aluminum mount to hang a GPS in my truck. I hate the suction cup mounts and don't like any of the other available mounts any better, so I kinda came up with my own design. And the (almost) finished product... I still have to finish mounting it, but I think its going to work pretty well. -Bear

New Power Finger File.

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I wanted to use aluminum for this project, 10mm thick would have done the job but I had no idea where to souurce that size sheet from; however, I did have some sheets of 25 mm Delrin so I thought I'd have a bit of a play with that medium. Delrin turns nicely giving a nice finish, but when grinding and filing the finish is quite rough. I expect some more work in this area to neaten the project up a little. I cut a rough shape from a largish slab and set about shaping it with a finger file. The hole for the motor was turned on the lathe, this necessitated making the handle a little shorter than I'd like. As it turned out the handle fits the hand quite comfortably. I cut a slot just forward of the handle and tapped a hole from the top of the blank for clamping the motor in place. Next I mounted a small piece of Delrin in the four jaw and drilled a 10mm hole for the front wheel mount. After mounting the motor, I spun up a small piece of Delrin and sunk it into the drive drum and...

Dividing head,what a great tool to have

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I love my new vertex bs-0 dividing head. It opened up a whole new world of possibilities for me. I know this has probably been posted a gazillion times,but I feel like sharing. Today I made myself a dovetail cutter using two TCMT 16T308 MP NC 3225 inserts with a positive rake and 7degree relief angle. I did not take enough pics for this post.....was enjoying myself too much. What you don't see is, I've set my dividing head 30degr. out of parallel to my mill bed to get the right angle for the insert and tilt the DH 2degrees down to get a positive axial rake. I didn't want to go too big on that angle because of the 7 degr. relief angle,I do not want the insert to drag. The DH allowed me to machine the two insert landings at the same hight and depth 180 degrees appart. The cutter angle is 60degr. and the shaft diameter is 20mm (the bigger the better.) The head is about 38mm OD and shaft about 75mm long. I do not have a job for it yet and are eager to try it out. Maby I wil...

Bearing replacement on steering gear shaft.....

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A few years ago I helped a friend that was converting a Toyota Echo from gas to electric. I made a steel plate for the transmission housing that mounted the big electric motor, and a coupler to connect the two shafts. During the conversion he changed from a hydraulic power steering to an electric unit, which was hard to find. Recently, he discovered that the seals on the electric power steering unit had leaked, water got in and the integral bearing on the shaft was pretty rough: Since the electric steering gear was even harder to find now, he asked if I would attempt a repair. He bought a new standard bearing with internal and external races, the new OD matched the old. The plain round part of the shaft was 17.5mm and he found a new bearing with a 17mm ID. I turned down that part of the shaft and shoulder where the old bearing ran. I was concerned about how hard the shaft might be since it was the original inner race, but a carbide lathe tool cut it well. Here it is...

Big bench grinder build.

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I have an two grinder sharpening station in my machine shop but i don't have a bench grinder in my big garage. looked around and the bigger 200-250 mm stone size grinders are pricey so i thought why not build one the size i need and of course make it more powerful. After considering couple of belt driven designs decided to make it direct drive but to use a 2Kw (2 3/4 Hp) 2800 rpm motor out of an old pressure washer, first thing i did after digging out the motor out of the shed was to disassemble it and chamfer, then drill the output shaft, then i made a shaft to slip in it, made this shaft way over size. Then i Mig weld it allowing the weld to melt in down to the root, then i chuck it up flatten the end, centre drill the end then supported it with a live centre. Allowing extra material helps if it moves when welding. then i took couple heavy and progressively lighter cuts do bring it down to M12, this side will turn clockwise so i used right hand threads, at this point i stopped...

Made a Reloading Block Today

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I've been wanting to do this for a long time. Today was the day. It is 4"X8" and holds standard and magnum cases. I'm happy with the way it turned out.

QCTP Tool Holder Rack

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I have slowly been adding to my collection of AXA style tool holders and it has become necessary to better organize them. The small size of my work area precluded a wall mounted storage unit. I decided that a rack mounted at the top of the backsplash wouldn't be too much in the way of machining and tools would be readily accessible. The plan was to make vertical hangers for the tool holders which would provide the densest storage. I could store 1`6 tool holders across the backsplash. In addition, I added four holders for MT3 tooling. For the base of the rack, I used a 30" piece of 1/4" x 1,-1/2" hot rolled steel. For the hangers, I cut 1.40" pieces of 3/16" x 2" hot rolled. Four standoffs for the MT3 sockets were cut from 1`/4" x 3/8" hot rolled bar. The MT3 holders were cut from 1`" Sch. 40 galvanized pipe. I burned off most of the galvanizing in my wood furnace. The temperature has to get up to about 1200ºF where the zinc burn off with a bright greenish white flame...
One MOW Flycutter
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I started this little project before cold weather settled into the south, north central Florida. Cut a piece of 1 inch thick cold roll to get a disc a little larger than 5 inches. Drilled and bored the center to .750 -.05 for shrinkage. Heated the disc up to a nice red-ish tone and shut down the flame. Dropping the shaft that was in a cut frozen in the freezer over night. After sticking it in the hole hit it once with a hammer to set the shaft. Went to my South Bend 10K putting my ER32 collet chuck on and a .750 collet. Spinning went very well, the first time I turned anything over 3 inches. Today I pulled it off the shelf and well the humidity had done its job. Several rust spots. Milled a slot on the outside diameter to mount a tool. Then went to my private stock I picked up many years ago. A nice piece of metal with a HSS insert brazed on the tip ( or what I made the tip ). Cut a profile with relief where needed. A little bit of milling and a little bit of filing and fit...

Large Steady Rest

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The steady rest that came with my PM-1440GT lathe only opens up to a little over 2". With shorter fingers I can get up to 3-1/4". I want to be able to work on larger diameter tubing so a larger steady rest is in order. The max swing over the cross slide is 8-3/4". My current design will allow up to 8". I looked at various DIY steady rests, some over the top and other pretty awful. I don't think I need the rigidity of a steady made from solid steel or cast iron. I saw some fine examples of solid aluminum steady's but anything solid creates a lot of waste and makes the material expensive. My current direction is to use 1-1/2" square tubing with 1/4" wall thickness for the frame. The base and clamp will be 1018 cold rolled steel along with the hinge and lock. The finger sleeves will be from 1-1/4" round 4130 and the fingers and finger jacking screws will be from O-1 drill rod. There will be two sets of fingers, one with bearing bronze tips and one with bearing tips. Progress so...
Cartridge Calibration Press
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Hello, My entire cartridge gauge design where you go from one end of Die to another, so the calibration is complete. The machine has some oxidized parts and stems with hard chrome; The Dies were bought from bought. Hope you like it !

PM30 Milling Machine Stand

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Building a bench for my soon to arrive Precision Matthews PM30MV. Planning to roll an old craftsmen tool chest underneath. Not totally sure on the bench surface yet. A side note, this is a bad time to purchase steel!! $$$ A sketch: Steel is cut, cleaned and de-burred: Tacking together the front and back sections: Now I need to figure out how to attach the cross members while keeping things square. My workbench isn’t big enough and my floor is far from flat.

Just a few things I've picked up over my 2-year Machining Studies

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Creating this thread to share some manual mill/CNC stuff I've picked up so far at work/school. Some nice little charts here if you want to print them out. The center drill sizes are basically what I program the controls for depth for each size, because it's tricky finding one that works I've jotted ones that do here. Also the SFM is a bit different, but if you look at the bottom guide it will show you how to use them. This is for milling only. For drilling, I usually use a different chart that I found to be better. Will upload it soon. Let me know if you need clarification on anything. I wanted to use this as a spot for you all to learn and for backup for my notes. MOST OF THIS IS FOR THE MILLING MACHINE!

Spindle Stop

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My version of a spindle stop for my PM-1440GT lathe with 2" spindle bore. I have been using this stop for a while. Made from Delrin, a 3/* aluminum rod and 3/16" & 1/4" drill rod at the ends. It is held in place by one of the outboard spider setscrews and adjusted with a 1/4-20 setscrew. Something I made up quickly for a job. Works okay but a bit of a pain to quickly install and adjust. I decided to make one that was tool-less to install and adjust. The adapter is made from 2-1/4" 1018 cold rolled steel. The adapter is held in place by a pin that is engaged by a 1/4-20 adjustable handle. Same for the stop rod lock. The stop rod and lock pins are made from O-1 drill rod. Cad Model showing how pins are engaged. Truing up the stock in the 3-jaw prior to facing and drilling. Stock supported in the steady for facing and drilling. I would have done the turning in the steady but I discovered it would not open more than 2" so I had to remove the collar the holds the top...

Air power file conversion to 12 volt.

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I bought an air belt grinder a while back which proved a little too air hungry for my compressor, so, rather than buy a bigger compressor I converted it to run off 12 volts. The motor came from ebay as a 12 volt cordless drill motor spinning at 5000 rpm. I removed the air motor and as luck had it the 12 volt motor fitted perfectly in the grinder housing. I also turned up a 12 mm bush with a 3mm hole to fit over the motor's shaft and shrunk fit that into the belt drum, constructed a handle from 22 mm tube and inserted a switch in it. To protect the motor I turned down a PVC pip fitting and heat shrunk it over the motor leaving an air gap to coincide with the motors vents, Sikaflexed an end cap in place and cut some grooves under the cover to aid cooling. The grinder works great and is certainly better than forking out $300 for a Makita belt grinder. some pics and a video:

Squareness comparator/surface guage

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Started this a while ago, keeps getting out on the back burner due to shop problems and break downs. Still working on my lathe DC drive system that failed... It's based on Stefan Gotteswinter's project. Did a bunch more mill work last night on the top slide piece. And my progress so far. To use as a surface guage, I can just spin the top slide around to the back and extend the DTI off the back for about 4" of reach. Not a huge amount of surface covered, but more than I have right now, which is nothing, and my surface plate is small. I figured with the addition of the surface grinder, and my hopes of making lapping plates, I really need a way to measure squareness and surfaces. It would be nice to afford a nice reference standard tho. I may just have to rely on comparative squaring. Checking both sides of something and splitting the difference.

10 cylinder Crankshaft

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I’ve been wanting to make an interesting form that used eccentric turning. I wanted to make it as long as feasible on my hobby machines and I would display it vertically. I did some research on cams and got to thinking that they are too solid of a piece. That led me to crankshafts that were much more “airy”, and certainly more difficult to make. I remembered seeing a thread once on one of the model engine sites where a guy made a V-12 crank and he made a special jig to help turn it. I suppose there are many ways to do this but they would involve a lot of dial indicator work setting up each crank pins off-set. The fixture this guy made was a big block of steel that was turned and bored with the crank throw dimension machined into it so it eliminated the individual set-ups. I don’t know if it was his idea, or if it was commonly used amongst the model motor heads. There were no plans, instructions or dimensions, so all I had to go on was a couple of photos he posted. They didn’t...

Thor's Meat Tenderizer

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Machined this last weekend.

Ellis Saw Vise Clamp

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My Ellis band saw has a quick acting vise for holding the stock in place while cutting. The vise can not be located real close to the blade and can cause a clamping issue when trying to cut really short pieces even shorter. So, here is my solution. I made an adjustable clamp. Seems to work pretty well. And yeah I know, it still needs some paint.

Indexing plate!

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-20F this morning again...........:cool: This morning's project was to finish up on an indexing plate that I had started the day before. Not that I really needed a project but wanted to test out the bolt circle feature on my Mitutoyo digital readout. As luck would have it I had a steel disc or the right thickness but a little larger in diameter than the original indexing plates. I picked 40,44, 48, 50, 55, and 60 divisions but maybe using some prime numbers would have been better, not sure at this point. Anyway, I still have the flip side to drill out. This is not a difficult process but rather a time consuming and requires one to be careful not to make an error in drilling. I used a center drill for the whole process for the sake of rigidity. It was quite a bit of work so had to show it off to all you HM folks. At least now I know that I can make pretty much custom make any indexing plate I desire. Here's a couple photos of the results:
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