I picked up a Clausing variable speed drill press from a Craigslist ad. I offered the guy $200.00 and he accepted. The drill press was in decent overall condition, and had a new motor on it. I disassembled the machine and cleaned up and painted everything. Mechanically, it was in very good condition, and the only real repair work I did was to straighten a few of the handle arms. One really nice feature is the table lift, which works great on that heavy table (btw: the table doesn't have a single drill mark in it!)
This is my second Clausing variable speed drill press. The first one is in my metal shop, this one will be in my wood shop.
OK, the long title says it all, I have an older southbound mill that I really enjoy, it's heavy, only has 1 hp, but she is pretty solid and a ram head. No nod, but she does tilt side to side.
I am in the process of collecting information on what I am going to need to do to rebuild the head and replace the spindle bearings on this machine. The information on this machine is a little sparse, though, not much is needed because the machine is fairly straight forward in design and construction.
Any info you might be aware of I'd would apperciated, very interested in info on taking apart the head and any adjustments alignments I should be aware of before I start pulling her apart.
Some pictures of the machine , head and the name plate.
Finally picked up a slotter attachment that I have been looking for. Probably paid a bit much, but it's practically new. Stripped it and cleaned out the old gunk. Back together already, quickest rebuild yet. Missing one oil cap and the arbor, but I have a print for the arbor. All I did was clean it.
I'm going to make some gears soon and came across this while brushing-up and refreshing my memory. Of course, the Machinist's Handbook has it all but, this is a very nicely authored and to-the-point tutorial. This is based on Diametral Pitch and not the Module method. I have some other guides based on Module method but need to check the copyright information.
Finally got around to taking some photos of my process as I make some of my string winding cranks. Here's one with a koa handle:
These cranks feature a soft head made of low density polyethylene, an angle of 83-degrees to simulate wrist rotation, and a solid bearing in the handle.
Interestingly, one of the first questions I get about them is, "How do you achieve that angle?" So, I'll start the description with that in mind. . .
The only commercially made part is the little brass ball, which I drill almost all the way through with a 6.4mm drill that gives me a .252: hole, making for a nice sliding fit for a 1/4" precision ground aluminum rod:
Here, I'm using my tiny Rusnok milling machine. I have the ball set into a matching cavity I milled by plunging with sa 1/2" ball end mill into the steel soft jaws on my old 4" Kurt vise. By the way, I get my soft jaws for vises and chucks from monsterjaws.com - no...
When I sold my Atlas 10F24, I held on to my Bison 5” 3J, as it was fairly new. Naturally I needed to make a new backing plate to mount it onto the new lathe. The old plate was 1 1/2” X 8 while the new spindle is 2 1/4” X 8, so I needed new metal to do this. I recently purchased 2 backing plates from Busy Bee Tools. They are 8” semi raw castings. They are turned to clean off the rough cast surface and the center hole is 1” ID unthreaded.
First I started by reading up on what could be the rights and wrongs in making these backing plates. Recent posting here by various people, too many to list, have been of excellent help.
I make a copy of my spindle, so that I had a plug to try the threads as they neared finish size. I used the 3 wire method to make the plug match the spindle. Once the readings were the same between the two, I was finished. I did stamp the diameter and tpi for future reference.
I am making two backing plates. One for the above Bison chuck and the second for...
Here's a "working" concept of a small shaper. The design goal is for it to work in the lathe via a toolholder in the toolpost or, on a small table-top fixture. The main use will be for cutting fairly small keyways in pulleys or gear bores. I'm also using this project to learn Fusion 360 after many years of Alibre CAD.
The design is based on the classic Whitworth "Quick Return" slider/shaper mechanism. This is the first time I've used a CAD program for all the conceptual diagrams. I did not use a pencil or notepad for hand sketches like I usually do. I used pencil/paper only for a handful of trig problems and also to calculate the position, torque and speed of the slider rod given the small gear motor that was selected for the project.
This diagram is no-where near what it will finally look like. This diagram only shows the mechanical model to prove-out the basic design. My design goal was to have a shaper that had an adjustable stroke up to 3.25". Fusion 360 has stress...
I have a 70's vintage Craftsman tool chest, a gift from my wife way back when. It has old metal-on-metal friction drawer slides that have never worked. It' a chore to get the drawers open.
Upgrading to ball bearing slides seemed easy enough. But how to mount the new slides without welding? I'm no good at welding sheet metal, plus I didn't want to ruin the finish. The solution kept coming back - use wood. In a metal tool cabinet?
It worked out well. The chest sides are more rigid with glued-in plywood, and maple slide mounts add strength.
Here is an inside view of the 3-drawer chest with the old metal-on-metal friction slides.
Here is a new ball bearing slide compared to the old friction ones.
After cutting out the old slides, I had a cavity to fill and new slide mounts to install. I used 3/4" baltic birch plywood and glued it to the chest using polyurethane construction adhesive, then glued 1/2"...
I have in the past tried to use my import metal stamp kit with little or no success.
The numbers never seem to be in a straight line with some up and some down.
Trying to keep them positioned correctly is almost impossible and the spacing between them is never right.
some are stamped too hard and others are not hard enough.
Spring time in Michigan so time to get back into the shop to reproduce more Erector set parts. The part here is Erector part# CQ slotted coupling. It’s a 5/16” diameter piece of brass 5/8” long. It has 6-32 and 8-32 tapped holes and a slot for attaching a flat strip to the cylindrical bushing. I’ll start with the obligatory Erector history lesson . . .
The CQ was introduced in 1924 and was included in just the largest set sold (No. 10). Its function was to connect a 5/32” diameter rod to a flat strip. Wow, exciting . . . I looked through the No. 10 manual from 1924 and found 7 or 8 models that used the part. So, not a widely used part. However, collectors of Erector sets strive to complete their sets with complete inventories of all the parts as it left the factory, so small as the market may be, there actually is one.
The CQ’s most prominent use was in the classic Hudson locomotive model. Two were used in the locomotive model (one per side). Function was to connect...
I have a couple of automotive a/c dryers from the 1980s that I had saved to maybe someday make something out of.
So I cut the dryer in half and trued it up in the lathe.
The inside of the tube was about 0.300 larger then the clock so I rolled a piece of this 0.135 thick flat steel into a circle. I cut off the ends and hammered it close to round. It is an interference fit in the tube and the clock fits snugly inside. Can't believe it worked that well.
For the base I turned a couple of steps on a 3"...
I have an early model PM 45 mill that has the manual hand crank for Z elevation. Since I just reorganized my shop and a toolbox is placed nearby, I'm going to attempt to convert it to powered elevation using a heavy duty gear motor that I've had for a long while.
I'm not 100% sure this will work to my satisfaction. The odds are maybe 70%... We'll see. I'll outline the design considerations as we go.
Here's some pictures and explanations...
Here's the mill with crank handle removed. I put a wrench on the shaft flat and roughly measured the torque needed to raise the head. Holding the wrench about 1 foot (little less actually) from the point of rotation, I measured about 8-10 lbs to move it. This was measured by setting weights on the wrench which is a little inaccurate. Anyhow, I'm assuming it needs 10 ft.lbs to keep it in motion.
Here's a gear motor purchased at a surplus shop that I've had laying around for years. This motor is used...
Being motivated by Mikey's great instruction on tool grinding, I dove in today and seems I was reasonably successful.
Success (I think?) grinding a turning (square) tool. I'm sure it would be easier with the models on hand, but wanted to try it just based on Mike's pictures and descriptions. I think I'm close (it seemed to work very well in brass, just ok on 303 stainless)
I installed the platen on my 1x42 belt grinder. It's just steel, but seems flat.
Set the table to 15°
Laid out the geometry on the blank. I reused a MoMax blank, so it looks a little funky, but I think I got the tip geometry correct.
After grinding the shape, I honed the cutting surfaces on 80um diamond film and finished with a 6000 grit water stone. Here are the results on brass...
It has been too long since I visited! So, I have decided to post a POTD. I am just starting to build Elmer's Grasshopper beam steam engine model. The first task I tried was the flywheel. I changed the plans a bit, as I decided to go with a 3.5" flywheel instead of the 3" flywheel the drawings call for. More mass should make for a better grass...hopper.
I had previously made the flywheel blank. It is 3.5" in diameter, 7/16" thick, with a .400 wide rim and a 3/4" tapered hub. The spoke area is recessed to make the web 1/8" thick.
The project was to cut the spokes.
The flywheel has six tapered spokes. With my rotary table and DRO, straight spokes are pretty easy, but the math for getting a tapered spoke was escaping me. So I found this document, which helped a ton. His whole website is full of useful info. Even with the help, most of the shop time was doing the math...
Just a small project I've been tinkering with for a couple of days... its an aluminum mount to hang a GPS in my truck. I hate the suction cup mounts and don't like any of the other available mounts any better, so I kinda came up with my own design.
And the (almost) finished product...
I still have to finish mounting it, but I think its going to work pretty well.
I wanted to use aluminum for this project, 10mm thick would have done the job but I had no idea where to souurce that size sheet from; however, I did have some sheets of 25 mm Delrin so I thought I'd have a bit of a play with that medium.
Delrin turns nicely giving a nice finish, but when grinding and filing the finish is quite rough. I expect some more work in this area to neaten the project up a little.
I cut a rough shape from a largish slab and set about shaping it with a finger file. The hole for the motor was turned on the lathe, this necessitated making the handle a little shorter than I'd like. As it turned out the handle fits the hand quite comfortably. I cut a slot just forward of the handle and tapped a hole from the top of the blank for clamping the motor in place. Next I mounted a small piece of Delrin in the four jaw and drilled a 10mm hole for the front wheel mount. After mounting the motor, I spun up a small piece of Delrin and...
I love my new vertex bs-0 dividing head. It opened up a whole new world of possibilities for me. I know this has probably been posted a gazillion times,but I feel like sharing.
Today I made myself a dovetail cutter using two
TCMT 16T308 MP NC 3225 inserts with a positive rake and 7degree relief angle.
I did not take enough pics for this post.....was enjoying myself too much.
What you don't see is, I've set my dividing head 30degr. out of parallel to my mill bed to get the right angle for the insert and tilt the DH 2degrees down to get a positive axial rake. I didn't want to go too big on that angle because of the 7 degr.
relief angle,I do not want the insert to drag.
The DH allowed me to machine the two insert landings at the same hight and depth 180 degrees appart.
The cutter angle is 60degr. and the shaft diameter is 20mm (the bigger the better.) The head is about 38mm OD and shaft...
A few years ago I helped a friend that was converting a Toyota Echo from gas to electric. I made a steel plate for the transmission housing that mounted the big electric motor, and a coupler to connect the two shafts. During the conversion he changed from a hydraulic power steering to an electric unit, which was hard to find.
Recently, he discovered that the seals on the electric power steering unit had leaked, water got in and the integral bearing on the shaft was pretty rough:
Since the electric steering gear was even harder to find now, he asked if I would attempt a repair.
He bought a new standard bearing with internal and external races, the new OD matched the old.
The plain round part of the shaft was 17.5mm and he found a new bearing with a 17mm ID.
I turned down that part of the shaft and shoulder where the old bearing ran.
I was concerned about how hard the shaft...
I have an two grinder sharpening station in my machine shop but i don't have a bench grinder in my big garage. looked around and the bigger 200-250 mm stone size grinders are pricey so i thought why not build one the size i need and of course make it more powerful. After considering couple of belt driven designs decided to make it direct drive but to use a 2Kw (2 3/4 Hp) 2800 rpm motor out of an old pressure washer, first thing i did after digging out the motor out of the shed was to disassemble it and chamfer, then drill the output shaft, then i made a shaft to slip in it, made this shaft way over size. Then i Mig weld it allowing the weld to melt in down to the root, then i chuck it up flatten the end, centre drill the end then supported it with a live centre. Allowing extra material helps if it moves when welding. then i took couple heavy and progressively lighter cuts do bring it down to M12, this side will turn clockwise so i used right hand threads, at this point i stopped...
I have slowly been adding to my collection of AXA style tool holders and it has become necessary to better organize them. The small size of my work area precluded a wall mounted storage unit.
I decided that a rack mounted at the top of the backsplash wouldn't be too much in the way of machining and tools would be readily accessible. The plan was to make vertical hangers for the tool holders which would provide the densest storage. I could store 1`6 tool holders across the backsplash. In addition, I added four holders for MT3 tooling.
For the base of the rack, I used a 30" piece of 1/4" x 1,-1/2" hot rolled steel. For the hangers, I cut 1.40" pieces of 3/16" x 2" hot rolled. Four standoffs for the MT3 sockets were cut from 1`/4" x 3/8" hot rolled bar.
The MT3 holders were cut from 1`" Sch. 40 galvanized pipe. I burned off most of the galvanizing in my wood furnace. The temperature has to get up to about 1200ºF where the zinc burn off with a bright greenish white flame...
I started this little project before cold weather settled into the south, north central Florida. Cut a piece of 1 inch thick cold roll to get a disc a little larger than 5 inches.
Drilled and bored the center to .750 -.05 for shrinkage. Heated the disc up to a nice red-ish tone and shut down the flame. Dropping the shaft that was in a cut frozen in the freezer over night. After sticking it in the hole hit it once with a hammer to set the shaft. Went to my South Bend 10K putting my ER32 collet chuck on and a .750 collet. Spinning went very well, the first time I turned anything over 3 inches.
Today I pulled it off the shelf and well the humidity had done its job. Several rust spots. Milled a slot on the outside diameter to mount a tool.
Then went to my private stock I picked up many years ago. A nice piece of metal with a HSS insert brazed on the tip ( or what I made the tip ). Cut a profile with relief where needed. A little bit of milling and a little bit of filing and fit...
The steady rest that came with my PM-1440GT lathe only opens up to a little over 2". With shorter fingers I can get up to 3-1/4". I want to be able to work on larger diameter tubing so a larger steady rest is in order. The max swing over the cross slide is 8-3/4". My current design will allow up to 8".
I looked at various DIY steady rests, some over the top and other pretty awful. I don't think I need the rigidity of a steady made from solid steel or cast iron. I saw some fine examples of solid aluminum steady's but anything solid creates a lot of waste and makes the material expensive.
My current direction is to use 1-1/2" square tubing with 1/4" wall thickness for the frame. The base and clamp will be 1018 cold rolled steel along with the hinge and lock. The finger sleeves will be from 1-1/4" round 4130 and the fingers and finger jacking screws will be from O-1 drill rod. There will be two sets of fingers, one with bearing bronze tips and one with bearing tips.
Creating this thread to share some manual mill/CNC stuff I've picked up so far at work/school. Some nice little charts here if you want to print them out. The center drill sizes are basically what I program the controls for depth for each size, because it's tricky finding one that works I've jotted ones that do here. Also the SFM is a bit different, but if you look at the bottom guide it will show you how to use them. This is for milling only. For drilling, I usually use a different chart that I found to be better. Will upload it soon. Let me know if you need clarification on anything. I wanted to use this as a spot for you all to learn and for backup for my notes.
My version of a spindle stop for my PM-1440GT lathe with 2" spindle bore.
I have been using this stop for a while. Made from Delrin, a 3/* aluminum rod and 3/16" & 1/4" drill rod at the ends. It is held in place by one of the outboard spider setscrews and adjusted with a 1/4-20 setscrew. Something I made up quickly for a job. Works okay but a bit of a pain to quickly install and adjust.
I decided to make one that was tool-less to install and adjust. The adapter is made from 2-1/4" 1018 cold rolled steel. The adapter is held in place by a pin that is engaged by a 1/4-20 adjustable handle. Same for the stop rod lock. The stop rod and lock pins are made from O-1 drill rod.
Cad Model showing how pins are engaged.
Truing up the stock in the 3-jaw prior to facing and drilling.
Stock supported in the steady for facing and drilling. I would have done the turning in the steady but I discovered...
I bought an air belt grinder a while back which proved a little too air hungry for my compressor, so, rather than buy a bigger compressor I converted it to run off 12 volts.
The motor came from ebay as a 12 volt cordless drill motor spinning at 5000 rpm. I removed the air motor and as luck had it the 12 volt motor fitted perfectly in the grinder housing. I also turned up a 12 mm bush with a 3mm hole to fit over the motor's shaft and shrunk fit that into the belt drum, constructed a handle from 22 mm tube and inserted a switch in it. To protect the motor I turned down a PVC pip fitting and heat shrunk it over the motor leaving an air gap to coincide with the motors vents, Sikaflexed an end cap in place and cut some grooves under the cover to aid cooling.
The grinder works great and is certainly better than forking out $300 for a Makita belt grinder. some pics and a video:
Started this a while ago, keeps getting out on the back burner due to shop problems and break downs. Still working on my lathe DC drive system that failed...
It's based on Stefan Gotteswinter's project. Did a bunch more mill work last night on the top slide piece.
And my progress so far.
To use as a surface guage, I can just spin the top slide around to the back and extend the DTI off the back for about 4" of reach. Not a huge amount of surface covered, but more than I have right now, which is nothing, and my surface plate is small.
I figured with the addition of the surface grinder, and my hopes of making lapping plates, I really need a way to measure squareness and surfaces.
It would be nice to afford a nice reference standard tho. I may just have to rely on comparative squaring. Checking both sides of something and splitting the difference.
I’ve been wanting to make an interesting form that used eccentric turning. I wanted to make it as long as feasible on my hobby machines and I would display it vertically. I did some research on cams and got to thinking that they are too solid of a piece. That led me to crankshafts that were much more “airy”, and certainly more difficult to make. I remembered seeing a thread once on one of the model engine sites where a guy made a V-12 crank and he made a special jig to help turn it.
I suppose there are many ways to do this but they would involve a lot of dial indicator work setting up each crank pins off-set. The fixture this guy made was a big block of steel that was turned and bored with the crank throw dimension machined into it so it eliminated the individual set-ups. I don’t know if it was his idea, or if it was commonly used amongst the model motor heads. There were no plans, instructions or dimensions, so all I had to go on was a couple of photos he posted. They didn’t...
My Ellis band saw has a quick acting vise for holding the stock in place while cutting. The vise can not be located real close to the blade and can cause a clamping issue when trying to cut really short pieces even shorter. So, here is my solution. I made an adjustable clamp. Seems to work pretty well.
This morning's project was to finish up on an indexing plate that I had started the day before. Not that I really needed
a project but wanted to test out the bolt circle feature on my Mitutoyo digital readout. As luck would have it I had a
steel disc or the right thickness but a little larger in diameter than the original indexing plates. I picked 40,44, 48, 50, 55, and
60 divisions but maybe using some prime numbers would have been better, not sure at this point. Anyway, I still have
the flip side to drill out. This is not a difficult process but rather a time consuming and requires one to be careful not to
make an error in drilling. I used a center drill for the whole process for the sake of rigidity. It was quite a bit of work
so had to show it off to all you HM folks. At least now I know that I can make pretty much custom make any indexing plate
i started construction on a MT3 slitting saw arbor from materials in the shop.
here is the slug of what i believe to be 12L14 mild steel.
it was unmarked, but acted like 12L14 i have machined before.
it's very nice to turn.
the slug was a fraction over 1" in diameter and 7" long.
i centerdrilled both ends.
i turned the diameter on both ends down to .950".
one for the drive dog, the other to make the taper turning operation quicker
then i added the drive dog and offset the tailstock to a total indicated offset of .176"
and started cutting the taper
and after taking some passes, the arbor partially emerged from the rod!
i drilled & tapped the drawbar end to 3/8"-16 tpi x 1.250" depth and polished it up a bit more to fit into the MT3 test socket.
and here is the blank, pictured next to a MT2 blank i did the day before.
I started this build couple of months ago thinking i'll finish it in a week or two so i continued writing about it in the question & answer section where i had couple of questions, but because is drag on for so long i've decided to move it in the project section.
Couple of weeks ago i bought two small generators they both "run" the smaller one needed an carb cleaning and now runs good, the Bosch uses an Tecumseh HS40 engine which has a blown head gasket, and only runs for couple of seconds and dies, the generator works so is worth repairing it.
My Precision Matthews PM1440GT lathe is arriving via UPS LTL Freight tomorrow 01/25/2018.
I have two basic questions relative to other PM1440GT Lathe owners.
1) Has anyone used the Dorian CXA Quick Change Toolpost , Model # SDN35CXA on the PM1440GT ?
I want to be able to use the larger 3/4" tooling over the 5/8" tooling on the Dorian BXA Quick Change Toolpost.
2) Has anyone used the Hitachi WJ200 VFD on the 3 HP 3phase motor on the PM1440GT ?
If so , is it possible to get the Hitachi WJ200 VFD parameters that were used for the PM1440GT ?
Appreciate any feedback and will post photos soon ...
My steady rest spider turned into a bigger project because the roller shafts do not retract to utilize the diameter of the steady rest.
I made new shafts from O1 tool steel with bronze tips.
The spider is made from a 2.5” diameter scrap of some grade of steel, it machined nicely. I will thread for the 8 spider screws m10x1.5.
First time using my rotary table, I supported the work directly under the bottom of the spider body because of the lack of rigidity of the rotary table mounting. I need to build a right angle mounting plate and look into rotary table tail stocks.
Perhaps you've seen this from other photos... It's a KO-Lee cutter grinder. It's a good platform and the table and all mechanisms are in excellent condition. I don't think this machine was used much in it's lifetime as there are very few signs of wear (hardly any at all really).
The motor is the weak link. The bearings are going bad and vibration can be felt in the short shaft. The long shaft is OK. The seller told me about this when I got it. I'm guessing someone bumped a wheel really hard and damaged the bearing on that side.
Anyhow, I once had a B&S #2 surface grinder but, sold it a few years ago. It needed too much work. It took up too much space, and I rarely worked on parts more than a few inches in size. Also, the things I make do not need sub-ten-thou tolerances. I've used the KO a couple times to do some grinding on small parts within a half-thou and it works out fine. My plan when I sold the B&S was to modify the KO-Lee to handle the simple grinding tasks...