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South Bend reversing gear stuck

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I am restoring a South Bend 9 and work has stopped due to a stuck reversing gear. It loks like no maintenance was done since the machine was made in 1947. Everything but the final gear on the shaft has disassembled but that gear needs to be pressed off. A mechanic friend tried with his 20 ton press - dyidn't budge. I took it to a local machine shop and they stopped trying when the pressure was nearing a breaking point. I have to get this apart. It drives the entire gearbox and screw. I can't afford for it to fail. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
South Bend, restoration,.

Scraping in all bearing surfaces on my Wards/Logan 10"

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I've been working on my lathe off and on over the past several weeks or months, but I've been hesitant to start a thread documenting my progress (or lack thereof!) for fear of embarrassing myself. I'm increasingly confident that I'm going to end up with a very precise lathe rather than a very large pile of cast iron dust and tears, so I'm finally willing to share my progress. After creating a new cross-slide for my lathe some time ago, I'd already spent a lot of time scraping in the compound and cross slide. But I decided to tackle a far larger project. I've taken Richard King's class twice now (and I'm about to help out with a third) but I know full well there is no way to really learn something without actually doing it (and even better, trying to explain what you're doing to others). So, despite my old Wards/Logan being in perfectly (well ... "acceptably") useable shape to begin with, I decided to scrape in the bed ways, headstock, saddle, and tailstock. I rationalized that...
The Power of Smallᵀᴹ
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Do you remember the time when most of the things were made here, they were durable, repairable and they would last for a very long time? Do you remember the time when shop and other hands-on trades training were part of the school curriculum? And you also probably remember when all this deteriorated, was bought and moved oversees and centralized by mega corporations... And this is great for few industries, but for a lot of small shop and inventors, makers and hobbyists, there is a real need in local distributed manufacturing. We are looking for your help to spread the word about our new initiative which we call "The Power of Small". What is The Power of Smallᵀᴹ ? • Small businesses doing big projects with low amounts of capital; • Office-desk sized machines making large parts - 100lbs and more; • On-shore, distributed manufacturing on a national or international scale; • Converting 100% waste plastics directly into viable finished goods - affordably and locally; • A...

Working With Plastics

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Some people are not very familiar working with plastics. So we will continuously be adding useful info about plastics, here are few first ones we put together: Joining and Gluing ABS Painting parts with molded-in colors - a great partnership. Your Guide To ABS Drop us a note if you find this info useful. If you have more questions/topics you'd like us to cover in future posts, please respond to this thread or submit suggestion on our website using this form

Clausing 1771 Drill Press Restoration

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I picked up a Clausing variable speed drill press from a Craigslist ad. I offered the guy $200.00 and he accepted. The drill press was in decent overall condition, and had a new motor on it. I disassembled the machine and cleaned up and painted everything. Mechanically, it was in very good condition, and the only real repair work I did was to straighten a few of the handle arms. One really nice feature is the table lift, which works great on that heavy table (btw: the table doesn't have a single drill mark in it!) This is my second Clausing variable speed drill press. The first one is in my metal shop, this one will be in my wood shop. Jack Fort Loramie, Ohio

South Bend reversing gear stuck

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I am restoring a South Bend 9 and work has stopped due to a stuck reversing gear. It loks like no maintenance was done since the machine was made in 1947. Everything but the final gear on the shaft has disassembled but that gear needs to be pressed off. A mechanic friend tried with his 20 ton press - dyidn't budge. I took it to a local machine shop and they stopped trying when the pressure was nearing a breaking point. I have to get this apart. It drives the entire gearbox and screw. I can't afford for it to fail. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
South Bend, restoration,.
Home-made CNC lathe using servos
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This is a thread about CNC Lathe I recently built. This is my first CNC machine, and obviously, I’m not a CNC guru. Being an engineer, I prefer more practical ways of making things rather than R&D approach with investing plenty of time, money and energy. This is also why I use simple and robust ideas instead of diving deep into unique ones and solving the problems just created. I started with Atlas lathe bed I bought on ebay. This bed has pretty wide (1-1/2”) flat ways, so one can easily put the linear bearing rails on it. To be continued with Drives and Tooling.

Unique Chess Set

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Just when you thought "what else can be done with the chess set", a new idea comes along... This is what a chess set using Plasti-Block™ ABS dual color rods could look like. Other color combinations can also be fun! Let us know what else would you like to see modeled using this product. We are looking forward to hear your ideas. Plasti-Block™ Team
Unique Two-Layered Chess Set.

A Nice Gear Tutorial #1

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I'm going to make some gears soon and came across this while brushing-up and refreshing my memory. Of course, the Machinist's Handbook has it all but, this is a very nicely authored and to-the-point tutorial. This is based on Diametral Pitch and not the Module method. I have some other guides based on Module method but need to check the copyright information. Enjoy... Ray

Making Frank's Cranks

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Finally got around to taking some photos of my process as I make some of my string winding cranks. Here's one with a koa handle: These cranks feature a soft head made of low density polyethylene, an angle of 83-degrees to simulate wrist rotation, and a solid bearing in the handle. Interestingly, one of the first questions I get about them is, "How do you achieve that angle?" So, I'll start the description with that in mind. . . The only commercially made part is the little brass ball, which I drill almost all the way through with a 6.4mm drill that gives me a .252: hole, making for a nice sliding fit for a 1/4" precision ground aluminum rod: Here, I'm using my tiny Rusnok milling machine. I have the ball set into a matching cavity I milled by plunging with sa 1/2" ball end mill into the steel soft jaws on my old 4" Kurt vise. By the way, I get my soft jaws for vises and chucks from monsterjaws.com - no affiliation - they sell CNC made jaws for about what I'd pay for raw...
Making a couple of threaded spindle backing plates for my lathe
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When I sold my Atlas 10F24, I held on to my Bison 5” 3J, as it was fairly new. Naturally I needed to make a new backing plate to mount it onto the new lathe. The old plate was 1 1/2” X 8 while the new spindle is 2 1/4” X 8, so I needed new metal to do this. I recently purchased 2 backing plates from Busy Bee Tools. They are 8” semi raw castings. They are turned to clean off the rough cast surface and the center hole is 1” ID unthreaded. First I started by reading up on what could be the rights and wrongs in making these backing plates. Recent posting here by various people, too many to list, have been of excellent help. I make a copy of my spindle, so that I had a plug to try the threads as they neared finish size. I used the 3 wire method to make the plug match the spindle. Once the readings were the same between the two, I was finished. I did stamp the diameter and tpi for future reference. I am making two backing plates. One for the above Bison chuck and the second for...
Hard Core Recycling - making blocks for machining
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Machining operations often generate some plastic waste. Companies often collect this waste and try to use it by putting a small percentage of waste in with the virgin plastic. The problem is that the rate of generating scrap exceeds the ability to reuse it. Other companies simply write it off and it is a wasted opportunity. The same injection molding equipment we use to manufacture plastic blocks from virgin pallets that many of you now use, we manufacture 100% pre- or post-consumer plastic and transform it into finished goods with excellent material properties and aesthetics. To read a bit more about what we do, please enjoy this article: Hard core recycling. And to see our equipment, the first video is now available, few more are coming in few days: The Factory of the Future Transforming Plastic Waste into a Plastic Resource - This video shows a bit of the equipment and why it is really a big deal. I hope you find our cause worth discussing and sharing. We are looking for...

Does anyone here have any experience with g code translation programs

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In August we are upgrading to okuma vmc's. One 3 axis, one 4 axis, and one 5 axis. Currently we are running 3 fadals and have some code files that are 15 years old. They were programmed on old software we don't have any more and most of the CAD files are in AutoCAD. No solid models. The okuma sales guy say no problem, use this program. https://www.kentechinc.com/cncxchange.html We have a guy here that they tried it where he used to work. It didn't go well I'm told. We have a 5000 hour backlog and I'm working about 55 hours a week. Soon to be 65 I'm told. We just put one of my machines on 4th axis work only but there is no way I can get it all done before the new machines arrives. So I'm hoping someone has some experience with this type of translation software and is willing to share their experience with it.

Indexable insert for S.S. and Titanium?

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Hey Folks, Can I get some recommendations for an indexable insert I can use to thread some 7/16-40 pieces in 303 and Gr. 5 Ti? I've got quite a few to do, and the job is big enough that it's time to invest in some indexable tooling. I'll need inserts and a 3/8" shank holder. Smoke.

Z axis set up - how to?

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New CNC guy here - having lots of fun with it. I went the route of getting a 20 year old industrial machine and, so far, it has been a positive experience. It is a Bridgeport VMC 1000/22 - it really just needed cleaning, power , fixed a few small computer glitches and away it went. To date I have been entering my part programs through the MDI (manual data input) - one line at a time, proving each step is doing what I want/expect. Obviously my part programs are pretty short and pretty simple. Is there sort of a typical approach to setting up the Z-axis parameters? I'm not thinking of the specific steps for this particular machine or its' G-code dialect (it is DX-32). Right now I describe a Z-position that puts the tool well up out of the way, then step through the program in block mode - which gives me the chance to measure the Z gap. Then I edit the code to bring the tool to where I want it. When I do a tool change, I go through about the same steps (keeping track on a...

Home Made, "Glendo Accu-finish" Show Me Yours

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If you are going to scrape you need to put a radius on the carbide/HSS blades and they need to be lapped to a specified angle. How do you accomplish it?

Awe Damn, I Chipped A Tooth

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On my bandsaw blade that is. ;) Actually it was a few teeth. I normally use a 5-8 tpi blade most of time and switch back & forth to a 8-12 tpi. I really should have switched to my 10-14 tpi blade but I only had to make one cut on some steel plate. I've done this before cutting thin alumn & just ease into it by hand & use a slow feed on the feed cylinder. Wasn't so lucky this time. Now my 5-8 tpi blade has a bad lump while cutting. Ruined a perfectly good blade by being lazy! I hate to throw the blade away & keep thinking of ways to save it or use it for something else. Wish I had a tig welder & knew how to weld. Yeah yeah, I knew better & I hear about this all the time... "been there done that" from others but finally it happened to me. Lesson learned. :bang head: So just a reminder, don't be lazy!

Scraping in all bearing surfaces on my Wards/Logan 10"

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I've been working on my lathe off and on over the past several weeks or months, but I've been hesitant to start a thread documenting my progress (or lack thereof!) for fear of embarrassing myself. I'm increasingly confident that I'm going to end up with a very precise lathe rather than a very large pile of cast iron dust and tears, so I'm finally willing to share my progress. After creating a new cross-slide for my lathe some time ago, I'd already spent a lot of time scraping in the compound and cross slide. But I decided to tackle a far larger project. I've taken Richard King's class twice now (and I'm about to help out with a third) but I know full well there is no way to really learn something without actually doing it (and even better, trying to explain what you're doing to others). So, despite my old Wards/Logan being in perfectly (well ... "acceptably") useable shape to begin with, I decided to scrape in the bed ways, headstock, saddle, and tailstock. I rationalized that...

What Would I Use These DC Power Supply Parts For?

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Hi Guys, I was on Craigslist looking for a nice steel enclosure for the vfd that I hope to hook up to some of my metalworking machines. I lucked out, and found someone selling the right size metal hinged box (for only $20) that happened to house an unregulated DC power supply. The owner told me that the person who forwarded this box to him originally used the dc power supply to power robots (lots of techie/stem nerds in the Bay Area) The box weighs a ton, and I don't see it this size supply selling at all in "completed" items of past ebay auctions. So, looking at the below pictures of this box's contents, do any of you guys see me, a newbie, ever needing to keep any of the parts, basically a capacitor and, I think, transformer, or should I just offer the parts to some random electronics wizard? Thanks, Susan

Old Habit = Cut Finger

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I have had a bad habit of using my hand in the shape of an OK sign to guide a long stringy aluminum chip from a light finishing cut on the lathe to the floor. I started doing this in college to prevent a birds nest and always knew it probably wasn't a good idea. But hey aluminum is a soft metal right? Nope! Today I was doing the same thing I always have and the chip got pinched between the tool and a shoulder on the workpiece and started to pull the chip back into the part through my hand. I am fortunate that I was quick to ESTOP the lathe AND the chip broke, but I got a very deep 3/4" long cut into my finger. Had things gone differently (thicker chip, steel, wrapped around my hand, etc.) I easily could have gotten my hand pulled into the lathe. The lesson I learned: Just because you've never been hurt by a bad habit doesn't mean it is safe to do. I will always use a metal rod to guide chips away from me when they are not breaking in a cut. Please be safe out there. - Mike

about taps

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Thought this may be of interest describing the different taps and their uses.

CNC Toolpath Strategies for smaller machines

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Just wanted to open a discussion on what people find works well for benchtop class machines for CNC strategies. I have a 2.5 HP spindle that I would like to take full advantage of. My machine (G0704) does not have the column stiffness to handle tools much larger than 3/8" nor does the 5000rpm max spindle speed allow me to run small tools really fast like a router table would. The sky is the limit when it comes to feedrate and accelerations for me. I have found that trochoidal toolpaths with full depth of cut engagement seem to work well, but I have always stuck to 15% of cutter diameter stepover in aluminum and roughly .001 to .0015 feed per tooth. This ends up only using <1HP. Specifically for roughing, what strategy would you recommend to take advantage of the remaining spindle power? Would you increase radial engagement for a wider chip or rather increase the chip thickness? Would plunge roughing be worth looking into? I've always wanted to experiment with high feed milling...
Let me make one thing perfectly clear! This is 2" thick Polycarbonate block!
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We are pleased to announce that Plasti-Block™ Polycarbonate blocks are now available, rods and sheet will become available as soon as we built enough inventory. This photo was taken with 2" thick block. It is crystal clear! I hope you will find it helpful to your projects. Oh.... and do you want to see the machine it was molded on? Here are 2 videos: The Factory of the Future This 25-lb superblock being molded by our tabletop machine.

Quoting a job, looking for tooling suggestions.

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Hi all, I'm working on quoting a job and need a few suggestions for tooling. The parts are free machining brass and 12L14 carbon steel. Initial prototype quantity is 5, follow up order will be 300-500 pcs. Feature #1: I need to turn a 2.5mm and 5mm external radius on the parts. A 3/32" radius tool falls within the allowable tolerance on the 2.5mm radius, however there is not an imperial equivalent for the 5mm. Looking for a source for a HSS or brazed carbide tools with metric concave radaii. Feature #2: I need to machine multiple grooves 1.5mm wide by 1mm (radial) deep. I can grind a HSS tool, but would prefer an insert which can groove that size. Looking for TNMA or TNMC inserts with that thin of a groove width. Feature #3: There is an external M3.5-0.6 thread on the end of one of the parts. Thinking a tailstock die holder would be the best, but open to suggestions. Don't want to single point 500 parts.

Spider Centering Test Indicator Holder

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Posted this many years ago for my 1340GT, and built another for my ERL-1340 the other day. It uses a test indicator attached a Zero-Set which is normally used in mills for hole centering. Versions of the Zero-Set are on eBay and through Shar's for $20-30. The test indicator holder slides on two bars mounted to the lathe belt cover, so remains in the same position vertically relative to the stock in the spider. The tip of the test indicator is always in aliment and the Zero-Set/indicator slides forward when not in use. The rails are 1/4" rods, on mine the spacing is 3/4", the cover aluminum mounts are angled so they are level horizontally. They attach with two small screws behind the cover. I use a bit of red loctite when I insert the rods into the mounts. I have an extended reach indicator which are a bit harder to find/cost, one could use a inexpensive test indicator and put a longer point on it (check the thread size), the key is to have a test indicator with enough travel (i.e...

Preferred spotting for drilled holes?

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I run a smaller CNC and would like to preset a single tool to handle most or all of my spotting work. When doing general drilling I have always used a small center drill, but need to run high RPM's and find it doesn't clear chips well. I see NC spotting drills for sale in angles ranging from 90 degrees to 150 degrees. What would you recommend for a general purpose spot drill?

Making A Rotary Broach, By Ulma Doctor

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A couple years ago, I made a very quick and dirty rotary broach for a project i was working on in my normal job https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/shop-made-rotary-broach-down-and-dirty.48805/ it worked for the purpose it was intended, but i wanted to make an improved version. the new version , i envisioned was precise, robust, and economical. (i priced out a manufactured rotary broach similar to the size i'm constructing, it was over $500 USD) last week, i took up the gauntlet, to make my vision a reality (and for a lot less money;)) as an added challenge, i'm going to do this project ,with only the stuff i have lying around the shop :grin: ACT 1: The Capsule after hunting down the materials, i decided to draw a plan for the capsule the capsule is a sub-assembly of the rotary broach. the capsule contains the toolholder shaft, roller bearing and thrust bearing assemblies, and their spacers and retainers. it is designed to be taken apart for easy bearing changes, as...

Inexpensive TTS alternative or R8 quick change tooling

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I have been using the Tormach TTS family of tooling for many years now to preset my tool lengths off of the machine and allow for quick tool changes. With my recent addition of a pneumatic drawbar, this will be even more helpful. The issue is that Tormach's pricing on the genuine TTS tooling system has gotten a little crazy. Last time I checked, they wanted $32 for a setscrew endmill holder and $50 for an ER20 collet chuck. I have found a Chinese supplier who ships from US stock. I spoke with Mike Li at IGStool.com (sales@igstool.com) and his current offering for TTS compatible tool holders (ordered directly from him) is: ER20 with TTS compatible ATC groove 1.38" long 3/4" shank, $17 USD Set Screw endmill holders with TTS compatible ATC groove (1/8, 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2"), $18 USD FMB22 Face mill holder with TTS compatible ATC groove (looks like a common size for cheap import facemills, 22mm bore), $19 USD In addition, the related ebay page offers non-ATC geometry collet chucks...

Easson 12B DRO lathe install with glass and SRA M-DRO magnetic scales

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Just completed a Easson 12B DRO install on my ERL-1340, I opted for the stock glass scales for the X and Z0 axis for cost reasons, but wanted to use the 3rd input on the Easson 12B DRO head. When I previously looked into the use of magnetic scales a few years ago with the Easson DRO's I was told that they may not be compatible (at least the those from DRO Pros). At the time I went with the EL700 on my mill with 4 axis magnetic scales. On my lathe, I did not need all the features of the EL700 and the Easson 12B is about 1/3rd the price. The stock glass scales are 1 micron slim line scale for the X axis and a 5 micron glass scale for the Z0 axis. The installs were pretty straight forward on the ERL-1340, I almost never use any of the stock brackets that come with these DRO's. Cross slide was straight forward, I use some small spacer washers to set the standoff heights. Since the reader is directly mounted the holes needed to be spot on. I may at some point add some spacers to...

[Metrology] Where to find in Machinerys handbook?

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Can anyone tell me where to find dimensions for collets in the Machinery’s Handbook? I can’t find anything in the index. My copy is from 1979. With all of the other information in it I can’t imagine collet dimensions aren’t.

Possible Grizzly DF-1237G Restoration, Oil Seals?

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In the late 1990s, I bought a then-used Grizzly DF-1237G (apparently the same as a G1003) 12 x 37 lathe. It's served me well, but now a few things have evolved such that I'm considering rebuilding it - if I can find the parts - or selling it and moving on. The main problem is that the gearbox oil seals have always leaked, dumping the entire gearbox contents into the stand over a period of just a few weeks. The worry is accelerated bearing due to insufficient oil around the head bearings. Unfortunately, Grizzly no longer stocks the oil seals. I know bearing part numbers are universal and can be cross-sourced, but I don't think that applies to oil seals. Has anyone found compatible oil seals for this lathe?

Planning PM-30MV Conversion

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I just received a new PM-30MV mill for a CNC conversion. There are a few things I haven't seen talked about very much in the forums. 1) How do you disable the quill? Do you remove the course and fine gears and all the other quill components? How do you lock the quill from moving? 2) Why don't CNC controllers use the DRO installed on mills? 3) Does it matter which side of the X-axis the stepper is installed on? It seems that most people mount it on the left side. Thanks for any insight into these burning questions. Mark

Involute Gear Pitch for ACME Thread

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I'm trying to figure out which involute gear pitch works with 8 and 10 TPI ACME thread? By "work" I mean for low pressure application similar to a lathe thread dial or other low torque application.

Approximate Cycle Time differences by material

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I'm considering a major process change in the business that would require switching from cold/hot rolled raw material to 300 series material. Yes, the cost in material is considerably higher, but there are cost reductions further down the line that may offset the material cost - hence the need to estimate costs and see if it makes sense to go in this direction. My general question is: what would be a good estimate for the following factors: Difference in cycle time (inc/dec) by % switching from mild steels to stainless? Difference in tooling cost (inc/dec) by % switching from mild steels to stainless? Other factors to consider? Like all things, I'm looking for educated guesses based on experience and/or facts on the ground from people that can speak to this. With that said, I'm not looking for precise answers just general ranges. If somebody said expect a 10-30% increase in cycle time...that is good enough for me to use - don't need to hit a bulls-eye in order to put some...

Pattern making to repair a broken cast iron machine base

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Here is a Keith Rucker video showing him making a pattern for casting to repair a broken cast iron machine base. It all looks good to me, but I am mostly clueless on this interesting subject. Still, I am looking forward to the follow up videos...
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