Seal Lathe Apron Leak

G-ManBart

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I just had to replace a hand wheel pinion on my newly acquired 14" Logan and after putting it back together and filling it with oil I'm getting quite a bit of leakage. This is a two-piece, front/back, style casting so it has a seam across the bottom. I cleaned the surfaces where they meet pretty carefully, and tightened the bolts holding them together more than enough when I reassembled, but it's leaving a puddle overnight. Honestly, I think I cleaned the surfaces too well because there was some dried stuff there that was probably acting as a gasket.

Has anyone used something like High-Tack gasket sealant without a gasket for a situation like this? Maybe something else?
 
Automotive has several silicone type sealers.
 
Automotive has several silicone type sealers.
Good tip, however not everyone (including myself) likes these because they should be reapplied on disassembly/reassembly while paper/rubber seals can be reused. Also they tend to glue the parts together a bit.

Where it is evident a seal should be present I've used seals cut out with scissors from a large (a3) sealing sheets I buy at a local farm supply shop. They are made at different thicknesses and materials(paper, rubber, etc)

Where it looks like there are two machined surfaces touching that are supposed to retain oil, but are leaking I've been making "seals" from a single sheet of computer paper. They are very thin, but they do seal oil very well. Also they can be reused.

Automotive sealant is last resort for me, but it works very well if you don't mind it.
 
Kraft paper from shopping bags makes a nice thin gasket, a machined surface should not be expected to make an oil tight seal, personally, I would likely use gasket shellac.
 
Kraft paper from shopping bags makes a nice thin gasket, a machined surface should not be expected to make an oil tight seal, personally, I would likely use gasket shellac.

No doubt...I don't expect an oil tight seal...my other lathes have a drop here and there out of the apron, and that doesn't bother me. Overnight this is leaving a tablespoon under the apron which is more than I want to deal with if I can easily avoid it.

As best I can tell, gasket shellac is similar to the high tack gasket sealant I mentioned above, but dries hard rather than stays somewhat flexible. That's probably worth a try since once together there isn't any movement.
 
Hondabond is made from the juices hand-squeezed from barnacles in Japan. That and tight tolerances are the reasons why Hondas don't need no steenking gaskets. Ever see one leak? Me neither. I'd use that on my precious in a heartbeat.
 
Hondabond is made from the juices hand-squeezed from barnacles in Japan. That and tight tolerances are the reasons why Hondas don't need no steenking gaskets. Ever see one leak? Me neither. I'd use that on my precious in a heartbeat.
Learn something new every day....never heard of it before!
 
I just had to replace a hand wheel pinion on my newly acquired 14" Logan and after putting it back together and filling it with oil I'm getting quite a bit of leakage. This is a two-piece, front/back, style casting so it has a seam across the bottom.

So it's a machined metal, non gasketed joint, that is designed to hold oil? I'm going with that, if I'm wrong, stop reading because I'm out in left field...

I cleaned the surfaces where they meet pretty carefully,

Cleaned them how? Specifically, were there any abrasives involved?
and tightened the bolts holding them together more than enough when I reassembled,

How tight is more than enough. This can be a problem, as a machined joint that seals dry will have a fairly low clamping force. Well, prior to cost effective mass production with 3D CNC machining at 50 millionths of an inch anyhow.

but it's leaving a puddle overnight. Honestly, I think I cleaned the surfaces too well because there was some dried stuff there that was probably acting as a gasket.

You're positive it was not a pre-existing sealant that might be called out in a manual somewhere?
Has anyone used something like High-Tack gasket sealant without a gasket for a situation like this? Maybe something else?

I never was a fan of that stuff. I've used plenty of it,

Loctite 515 or a direct cross reference would be my first choice. Flange Sealant or Gasket Eliminator are two common names if you cross it. It does "harden", but not what you're worried about. It stays flexible in lighter castings, and it'll come apart pretty reasonably in future services. It's not reusable, but It's an anaerobic sealer, so it won't dry in the tube, one tube will last a lifetime. You're just fighting gravity, right? No pressure on that oil? If that's the case, no setup time is required, you can bolt it together and fill it up. You still want reasonable to light torque on the fasteners responsible for the joint. Cranking down on them will start to pull apart the sectons between them, and open a gap.
 
Rtv based sealers work well here.

Wipe a thin layer on both parts with a fingertip.

2 ways to assemble.

Assemble but leave screws a bit loose for maybe 1 hour.

Tighten up, and you have a rubber gasket of some thickness between parts.

Or, assemble and tighten the screws, glues better.

The RTV is not real strong, will pop apart with a blade pushed between.

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Hondabond is made from the juices hand-squeezed from barnacles in Japan. That and tight tolerances are the reasons why Hondas don't need no steenking gaskets. Ever see one leak? Me neither. I'd use that on my precious in a heartbeat.

I think you mean Threebond. They make Hondabond, Kawabond, Suzukibond, and Yamabond.

There are various types, so using these generic names don't point to a specific product.

The Threebond stuff that's made their reputation is the gray acrylic sealer stuff. They also make RTV products. Can't go wrong either way, but the acrylic sealer, sold as Threebond 1184, is the real deal.
 
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