Gear depth of cut question

[Suzuki4evr]

I need some advice. If you have a gear tooth 0.424"whole depth of cut,do you do it in one pass slow rpm and slow feed or do you do it in two or more passes. It is a module 5 gear cutter.

Thanks
Michael

 

[benmychree]

I would do it in two cuts, but remembering that on the finish cut, at least two teeth are engaged in the cut to avoid the cutter hammering, table jumping, and liable to knock a tooth out of it. If the cutter module or DP is fine enough, I prefer to cut the spaces in one cut, to full depth, so like so many things in life, it depends ---- on the machine doing the cutting, the material, and the rigidity of the setup, to name several factors.
Bottom line, taking numerous small cuts is generally not a good thing, I have a few cutters with missing teeth to prove the point. One thing that I did when cutting gears with my 1906 vintage #2 B&S mill was to make a sort of brake to fit over the arbor collars that was clamped down over the collars tight enough to stop the hammering of the cutter, of course, it was anchored against rotating on its own against a stud on the arbor support casting.

 

[Suzuki4evr]

One thing that I did when cutting gears with my 1906 vintage #2 B&S mill was to make a sort of brake to fit over the arbor collars that was clamped down over the collars tight enough to stop the hammering of the cutter, of course, it was anchored against rotating on its own against a stud on the arbor support casting.

Can you show me a sample of this method perhaps,because maybe I am a bit slow on the uptake on what you mean by this,if it is possible. What I mean is that I don't see the picture of what you are describing for me.

 

[benmychree]

picture a couple of pieces of hardwood about 1 1/4" square and about 4" long against each other with about 1/8" space between them, and holes for bolts on about 3" center distance so they might be bolted together, and a hole bored in between them to fit the mill arbor, when the bolts are snugged up, it acts as a brake to retard rotation and chattering. I no longer have or use suchlike any more as I now have a newer mill and also a dedicated gear cutting machine, otherwise I would send a picture. If this not enough, I could conceivably make a sketch and forward it to you.
John

 

[Suzuki4evr]

It seems my brain doesn't want to work tonight the way I want it to. I'll appreciate the drawing. Sorry John. I feel a bit silly now

 

[benmychree]

OK, later today I will attempt it, easy enough to sketch, not quite so easy to scan/send. Feel a bit silly, nudge, nudge, wink wink, been around a bit?

 

[Suzuki4evr]

Thanks for your efforts and help.

 

[benmychree]

 

[markba633csi]

I'm a little confused myself- John is this device attached to the dividing head? I guess I'm not seeing where the play is
-Mark

 

[benmychree]

The device is used on the milling arbor; when only one tooth of the cutter is engaged in the cut, the tendency is for the cutter to start jumping around and causing the table to do the same, in the extreme, teeth can be ripped out of the cutter, been there, done that! The heavier the machine, the better with less tendency for that to happen.