2mm tap

[Jeff.64]

If the sizing convention for machine screws holds, a 0000 screw would have a diameter of .021" I find it hard to imagine tapping a thread it that small a hole! How about single pointing a 160 tpi screw?

I'd think you would need to fabricate an miniature version of the tapping guide/machine. 0000-160 would be scary.

For single point, maybe a Manson lathe with a Clough42 ELS?

 

[homebrewed]

That's a interesting tool. I found this, they sell screws as small as 0000-160.

J.I Morris Company | Miniature Screws & Fasteners Manufacturer

At J.I. Morris, we pride ourselves on providing the highest-quality manufactured miniature fasteners and screws. Please click here for more information.

jimorrisco.com

There is also a PDF catalog. I feel like the watchmaker in the old joke - "What did the watchmaker say when he saw a 1/4 - 20 tap for the first time? I didn't know they made 'em that big"! I'm looking at the 0000-160 screws and threaded rod they sell thinking - I didn't know they sell 'em that small. I know about the small thread series, but I never seen a supplier offer anything smaller than 0-80.

Many years ago, I used a 0-80 tap and die to make a low temperature differential Stirling engine from plans in James R. Senft's book. I used my smallest T wrench with the handle removed and my thumb and index finger on the knurl of the T wrench to tap the threads. I did it while seated and resting my arms on the bench. I got lucky and did not break the tap. I felt like an hour at the time, but actually it didn't take much longer than tapping a 4-40 thread. The act of tapping a 0-80 thread is the same as a larger tap, just be very, very gentle I kept telling myself. Very nerve racking the first time. Afterwards, I'm like "0-80 tap? No big deal."

Based on what I've seen of your posts, you will have zero problems tapping a 2mm thread. Thanks for sharing the J.I. Morris tool photos.

It's nice to know they still are a going concern. I bought the tap/drill holder over 20 years ago (probably closer to 30). I note that it doesn't appear in their latest catalog: but as I said, it wouldn't be very difficult to make your own.

 

[RJSakowski]

I'd think you would need to fabricate an miniature version of the tapping guide/machine. 0000-160 would be scary.

For single point, maybe a Manson lathe with a Clough42 ELS?

The finest thread the Clough42 ELS can cut is 80 tpi although you can modify the firmware to add 160 tpi if you're so inclined.

 

[stupoty]

I've got a small pin vise I can use for holding the tap. It doesn't use a collet, instead it uses a simple-to-machine holder with a hole sized for the drill or tap. In fact, the whole thing would be pretty easy to make.

Like this:
View attachment 457465
View attachment 457466

I've had this set for years. Rarely used since it's specifically for small drills and taps. I'll drill a shallow hole on the opposite end for my spring loaded tapping guide. If I didn't already have this guy I probably would make a Joe Pie version. Or if doing a bunch of holes that require both a tapered and a bottom tap.

BTW you can see the price sticker on the box. I bought it at a local hobby store for $12.98.

I use a small drill chick as a pin vice type replacement to hold very small taps.

Stu

 

[dbb-the-bruce]

I find this to be incredibly useful, especially for small taps.

It looks incredibly useful! What is it, how's it work?

As someone who broke a 5-40 tap in aluminum plate this weekend (because, hey I know what I'm doing....) I've been looking at and considering various means of upping my tapping skill with one of the many styles of fine-feed back tapping tools. There was an article about a shop made one in the latest "home shop machinist".

BTW - I was in a hurry so I tried drilling and then manually tapping the plate bolted to the CNC machine, that didn't work so moved to my mill to drill and power tapping (without any lube, I usually use Tapmatic). Broke the tap, had to pound it out and start from scratch the right way...

Yeah, saved a lot of time with that one.

 

[tq60]

If you are drilling with the mill, place tap in chuck and turn with finger TIPS...

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

 

[wachuko]

It looks incredibly useful! What is it, how's it work?

As someone who broke a 5-40 tap in aluminum plate this weekend (because, hey I know what I'm doing....) I've been looking at and considering various means of upping my tapping skill with one of the many styles of fine-feed back tapping tools. There was an article about a shop made one in the latest "home shop machinist".

BTW - I was in a hurry so I tried drilling and then manually tapping the plate bolted to the CNC machine, that didn't work so moved to my mill to drill and power tapping (without any lube, I usually use Tapmatic). Broke the tap, had to pound it out and start from scratch the right way...

Yeah, saved a lot of time with that one.

Looks like he made a whatchamacallit to place around the drill chuck to help him turn it by hand... pretty clever.

 

[dbb-the-bruce]

Looks like he made a whatchamacallit to place around the drill chuck to help him turn it by hand... pretty clever.

Ahh! I see it now. kind of obvious once you see it. I'm using a precision keyless chuck, so no key holes, maybe some other kind of attachment.

I really liked the other suggestion of small chuck on a straight half inch shank with bushing in the mill that allows the chuck to spin but keeps it true to the axis/hole.

One issue I have with power tapping or trying to manually tap with the tap in a chuck in the mill is managing the quill feed. Down is not such a big deal just keep enough pressure on to cut. If power tapping once the tap "starts" just neutralize the quill return spring and it self feeds. However on the reverse - backing the tap out, it's really difficult to manage the quill return spring at the top of the hole. The spring force wants to rip the tap out when you get to the starting part of the tap that isn't a full thread. The result is a stripping of the top threads particularly in softer materials.

With manual tapping it's even worse trying to manage the down force and retract. Thats why the free chuck in a half inch bushing appeals to me. However I could see that being a pain if you have to do lots of them and change back and forth for every hole.

I have used a normal tap handle with a point in the mill to keep it centered. This works but I still need to manage the quill feed. The solution to this approach is a spring loaded point.

(sorry, not meaning to hijack this thread)

 

[MrWhoopee]

Looks like he made a whatchamacallit to place around the drill chuck to help him turn it by hand... pretty clever.

Not my idea, someone else posted it here. It was an SMH moment when I saw it. I use my piloted spindle tappers a lot less now.

 

[strantor]

I recently had a project involving drilling/tapping >100 2mm holes in 3mm aluminum to mount standoffs for PCBs. I cheaped out and got these off Amazon. I was counting on breaking them left and right so I bought two packs (20 taps) just to be safe.

My first few holes were done with a level of care appropriate for bomb-defusing movie scenes ("cut the red wire, no the blue!"). I used a 1ft extension tap handle to minimize the angle my clumsy hands could possibly subject the tap to. Used plenty of cutting oil. Deburred the holes prior to tapping, just to make sure no stray big chips got in there. Took a few minutes per hole.

Almost immediately I gave up on deburring. After 10 or so holes I got impatient, started doing it on the drill press, clamping the work for each hole. After a while stopped clamping. A while later I chucked one up in my cordless drill, lowest torque setting, started doing it that way. After swapping back and forth between drill bit and tap in the chuck a few times I lost my only 1.6mm drill bit and started using a 1/16"(1.59mm) bit.

By the end I was holding the plate in one hand, not even in the vise, holding the drill in the other, tapping at full speed, full torque, and not using any cutting fluid.

I broke two taps and both times it was because I knocked my drill over.

It turns out these things just want to work. I'm sure it would be more of an issue in thicker material but 2mm hole in a 3mm plate is alreadt enough ratio to worry, so I thought. One of the few things in recent memory that turned out faster and easier than expected. Doesn't even come close to making up for all the 15 minute jobs that took 6 hours though.