8” rotary table

PT Doc

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Is there an obvious preference for 3 or 4 slots? The Vertex 8” table is available in both. I’d like to get a chuck for this. Is it necessary to get a vertex chuck? Would it be better to get an 8” or 6“ chuck?

thanks in advance for the help.
 
I have a 8" RT with a 6" chuck. That only leaves just enough room to get the adapter plate mounted.
 
I have a 12” Bridgeport rotary, and that even seems small occasionally. Work holding always seems to involve some new solution.
I got some of those horizontal cam action clamps just for the rotary...they are almost but not quite as good as they seem.
 
I have a 10" horizontal only with my vise sitting upon it 99% of the time.
It is barely big enough for my 8*30 mill.
 
I have a 6” rotary table with 4 slots.
I have a 6” & 5” 4 jaw chucks that I use with it.
They are both front mount chucks, I use the T slots to mount them.
I would need an adaptor to mount a 3 jaw chuck on my 4 slot RT.
I have 2-1/4” 3 & 4 jaw chucks that I use with it mounted on #2 MT arbors that mount in the center #2 MT hole in the RT.
 
I have a 6” rotary table with 4 slots.
I have a 6” & 5” 4 jaw chucks that I use with it.
They are both front mount chucks, I use the T slots to mount them.
I would need an adaptor to mount a 3 jaw chuck on my 4 slot RT.
I have 2-1/4” 3 & 4 jaw chucks that I use with it mounted on #2 MT arbors that mount in the center #2 MT hole in the RT.

I like your approach. Or approaches. I have a vertex 8" RT with an MT3 center. I found a 70mm 4 jaw vise today after seeing your post. Does the Morse taper provide enough lock down to take cuts on the mill w/o workarounds? Also I didnt even know about front mount chucks - looked those up and found some with 3 slots (My RT is 3). I'm thinking about diving in. previously i had planned to make a backing plate to mount a larger 5" chuck. Thanks for dispersing some of the fog clouding my machine vision!
 
Actually my 5” 4 jaw chuck started life as a rear mount. The 6” was a front mount when new in the late 30s.
I turned the 5” chuck over & drilled thru the mounting holes, & counter sunk the front side for Allan head screws.
These chucks are 4 jaw independent chucks & are easy to zero in. I think a 3 jaw would be as well.
The 2-1/4” 3 & 4 jaw chucks are from my Emco Unimat SL1000 & I use them for very small parts.
I made arbors for them with 3/8-16 draw bar threads to pull them up tight so they can’t come loose.
The chucks are 12x1mm mounting threads which I believe is 25.4 TPI.
As I cannot cut metric threads on my SB9 I cut 26 TPI threads on the #2 & #3 arbors.
They work fine, you’d never know they’re a tiny bit off.
I use the #2MT arbor for my RT & my indexing fixture, & a #3 MT arbor in my SB9 spindle.
I hope this helps.
Cheers
 
That's cool. I dont think I'd have the guts to drill out a 6" chuck! So you just mount it to T nuts on the RT and sweep it with an indicator? I love the idea of threading the MT3. I think I would just tap a 1/4 20 socket into the MT3 to keep a retaining force on it.
When you say "very small parts" I'm guess with aluminum it could be up to an 1" w/o concern yes? Any way I appreciate you mentioning your approach. It's a big help to me.
 
So duh, since I have a 3 slot table a 4 jaw front mount chuck won't fit. I think 1/2" aluminum would be ok to make up a back plate.
Any verify?
 
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