Baileigh Lathe MLD1030, Where to Get Parts?

[spotttrouble]

I have been asked to repair a Baileigh MLD 1030 lathe, the owner thinks the motor driver board is bad, Baileigh says they no longer carry parts for this lathe. Anyone know anything about these lathes? Its the spitting image of a PM lathe, any chance PM sold same model and parts would interchange? Or would I be better off searching for the board on Ali-express? I have not had the opportunity to diagnose the machine yet.

 

[woodchucker]

don't know, check the capacitors first, see if they are gone?

 

[markba633csi]

I see it's a variable speed motor so it has an electronic speed control.
Depending on the type you might be able to source a new control board on Ebay
There is also Pete the repair guy:
www.olduhfguy.com
If your lathe matches the PM1030V then it should have a KB electronics SCR speed control which is easy to find a replacement for
Check page 35 of the PM manual
These are rugged controls so I would be surprised if it is faulty- check the various fuses and safety switches first (page 2)

 

[RaisedByWolves]

I see it's a variable speed motor so it has an electronic speed control.
Depending on the type you might be able to source a new control board on Ebay
There is also Pete the repair guy:
www.olduhfguy.com
If your lathe matches the PM1030V then it should have a KB electronics SCR speed control which is easy to find a replacement for
Check page 35 of the PM manual
These are rugged controls so I would be surprised if it is faulty- check the various fuses and safety switches first (page 2)

Yeah, if it is a KB board there is a fuse and a horsepower resistor (rectangular ceramic block) and either one can blow depending on what was being done when it shut off.

Typically low rpm/hi torque situations will take them out.

Loose spade connectors are also fun.

 

[spotttrouble]

This lathe is now in my shop and I have had a chance to look it over, I'm guessing one, maybe 2 people have been in here already, ugh... The owner told me he had called Baileigh and they could provide neither a manual or parts, I called them and they happily supplied a manual and said parts are available. Plugged in nothing works, not the motor, and rpm display stays dark. There is a schematic in the manual, I've been able to trace some of it out in the rats nest of wires, but its not exactly matching schematic, so either its an earlier model, or someone connected wires wrong. Disconnected motor from the wiring and connected a 12v battery charger to it, motor spins slowly and is quiet, but meter shows its pulling 6 amps.

I'm trying to decide whether to try fixing this the "right way", which may not be cost effective, or just slap a plain dc speed controller on the back and call it a day.

 

[woodchucker]

How much are new boards? They don't look complicated?

 

[spotttrouble]

The one on the right in above pic was quoted at $90ish, I think its what is labeled the "filter" in schematic. The one on the left, the SCR board, was quoted at somewhere in the high $400 range. I think I've identified a couple of wires in the wrong place, but with none of the terminals labeled on the filter in the schematic (there are labels on terminals on that board), I think I'm going to have to call Baileigh again.

If the wiring was connected wrong, as I think it was, no telling how much its been damaged......

 

[matthewsx]

Reach out to olduhfguy, it’s a common problem.

Olduhfguy.com

Repair Service for Mini Lathes and Mini Mills

olduhfguy.com

John

 

[spotttrouble]

I disconnected the A+, A-, L1 & L2 wires from the speed control board, then connected a power cable to the L1 & L2 terminals, the LED light on the board came on, and I get 3v with the potentiometer turned all the way down, and 99v with potentiometer turned all the way up. I think the speed control board is good?

I think half the problem is that someone else was in here and connected some wires incorrectly, none of the wires are labeled, and they might have just been going by color...... when I first traced L1 from where it entered it ran thru safety switch for gear cover, then thru safety switch for chuck shield, then to the magnetic switch??????? Tracing from the A- terminal backwards it went to the ground terminal on input side of the "filter" board???? I think I need to pull the wires, map the magnetic switch, the F/R switch, and start labeling wires and reconnecting them.

According to owner the problem started while he was operating it, it shut down and smoke came out of the back somewhere. He pulled motor and took it to a motor repair shop, they connected it to a dc power supply and declared it good, so he reinstalled it. One of his friends supposedly replaced a resistor on one of the boards, he is not sure which board, I see no obvious repair, and no burn marks, so I'm not sure which board either.

Edit: Using troubleshooting instructions on olduhfguy website for the "KB and chinese clone" boards, since the terminal markings correlate to this board, I get 12.2v between P1-P3, and 0v between P1-P2 regardless of pot position, yet still get 3v to 99v at the A+ A- terminals. I will contact olduhfguy.