Bed Twist

[Stob]

A friend got a used Acer 14-40 with VFD. Setting it up, it has 4adjusting bolts on the headstock end, and 2 on the tail stock. Getting the head end dead nuts level, the tail end won't adjust or react to adjustment trying to get it level.

I have a precision machinist level, albeit a chi com one. It is sensitive, and I take care to place it in the same place each time head end or tail end.

So how do you get the right end to level with the left end?

 

[xalky]

Set the level on the carriage and move it from end to end. of the bed. The machinists levels are slightly concave. If both end s are not sitting on a flat surface, you'll get an eroneous reading. On most lathes the carriage has a flat spot big enough to accomodate a level. Where you set the level is just as important as the readings you get. You don't want to set the level on top of the head stock, It should be on the bed or the carriage. Some times the carriage ways are not even height wise from front to back. This is why setting it on the carriage works for front to back leveling. Left/right leveling can be accomplished with the level positioned on the ways. You won't get it perfect. The best you can hope for is "good enough".

 

[12bolts]

..... the tail end won't adjust or react to adjustment trying to get it level.....

Can you not shim it as required.
Remember also that you only need to get it close. The final determination of left/right and front/back is by a test bar. That is the last word on whether you have it correct or not

Cheers Phil

 

[pdentrem]

Remember, level is not required. Just have no twist. Test bar is the final item.

Another thing to think about, is to let some time go by as you make adjustments. I found that the bed will slowly move over a few hours or days. So I make an adjustment and then walk away for a day or so, tweak it again, repeat.
Pierre

 

[ScrapMetal]

Here's an old .pdf on setup and leveling a lathe - http://www.wswells.com/data/howto/H-3.pdf

Hope that helps,

-Ron

 

[Stob]

I was setting two pieces of 1/2" square tool steel bars on the front and rear way flats, to span over the V's. I kept the two squares orientated so they weren't reversed, and placed them back in the same place each time. Same with positioning the level on the squares, set in the same place each time.