Clausing Lathe

Mike,

That looks like a nicely restored lathe. I'm not sure why you think it's a wood lathe. I don't recall ever seeing an ad for a wood lathe with a carriage, cross feed, compound and power feed.

However, this is the Atlas (and Craftsman) Forum. Although you are certainly welcome here, your quest for a steady rest and most other accessories as well as any machine specific questions will probably be better served if I move your thread to the Clausing Forum. Which I will do as soon as I write a little more. I do know that Atlas bought Clausing circa 1949 and then changed the company name to Clausing in the early 60's. And that we buy Atlas parts from Clausing today. But the Atlas and Clausing machines share no parts that I am aware of. And the owner of one brand isn't likely to know the answer to any machine specific questions about the other brand. Or worse, may think he does but be wrong.

Anyway, as you say it's a Clausing, I assume that it is but I don't recognize the model. That's what you need to know in order to start looking for a steady rest. There may be a few exceptions but in general one made by Brand X will not fit a lathe made by Brand Y, even though they have the same style bed ("V" or Flat) and are the same nominal size (i.e., 12x36). Once you know your lathe model number, unless someone on the Clausing forum knows the answer offhand, you can start by calling Clausing and asking them what it is. Then post a request in the Clausing Forum and also down in the Accessories and Tooling Wanted Forum which is near the bottom of the list of Forums.

Quick Change Tool Posts, on the other hand, are generic. You buy them and the holders for them by size. In most cases, they will come with a piece of thick flat bar threaded in the center for the stud or bolt that attaches them to the compound. You usually have to machine the bar into a T-nut to fit your compound T-slot because there is no standardization of T-slot size between various manufacturers. If you don't have a milling machine or a milling attachment and associated cutter holders to fit your lathe, you will need to take the bar along with your compound and the QCTP to a machine shop and have them fit it.

QCTP's and the holders that fit them come in several different sizes usually identified by one or the other of two systems. In ascending size, AXA (100 Series), BXA (200 Series, CXA (300 Series), etc. There is also a 0XA (may be 50 Series) but it's too small for a 12". Each size of holder best fits one size of cutter and and sometimes of boring bar. And will usually handle one size larger and smaller (at least of cutter). AXA is intended for 3/8" square cutters and 1/2" dia. boring bars. And will just hold 1/2" and 5/16" cutters. Etc. Most ads will say that the AXA fits 7" or 8" to 12" or 13". And BXA is for 12" to 15" or thereabouts. In my opinion, AXA is the best size for an Atlas 12" (there are two or three on the Atlas Forum who disagree with me and use a BXA). Aside from sales or specials, though, BXA and the cutters for it will cost more. But as I don't have any familiarity with your machine, you'd better get opinions from those who do.

In addition to size, there are several QCTP styles. Most on the market today, at least in what's apt to be your price range, are square and mount holders on two faces (one for turning and one for facing). There are two general ways in which the holder is tightened on the tool post, called piston and wedge. The wedge type is typically more expensive. And there are claims that it holds better and/or has better repeatability. I've had a Yuasa 100 Series piston style on my Atlas 3996 for 30+ years and have never had any trouble with it. You'll have to make up your own mind about that. The one thing that I strongly recommend you avoid, regardless of what you buy, is an aluminum tool post. They are a little cheaper (at least from the same vendor's list price sheet) than steel ones. But I wouldn't waste my money on one.

One other comment - most of the on-line vendors sell a set or kit including a tool post and one each of four or five types of holders at a savings over their list price for the individual pieces. Buy the kit. But also buy four or five more turning and facing holders (101) and one additional combination turning, facing and boring bar (102). Else within a week or two you will have to pay shipping again when you order some additional holders. The reason is that various common operations typically require various cutters. Although you can usually mount two cutters in one holder (usually one turning and one facing), if you start a job and then need to switch to a different type of cutter, and to do that you have to remove the first cutter from the holder and install the second and get it on center, you lose most of the benefits of the Quck Change and aren't much better off than with the lantern style tool holder.

Robert D.
 
Robert thanks for the detailed reply. You cleared up the Atlas/Clausing question.
The lathe was rebuilt when I bought it. It does not have any threading capability which is fine with me, came with very little tooling and the drill chuck taper did not fit the tailstock. Did solve the taper issue.

I didn't say it was a wood lathe. The PO, and the badge on the machine state it is a dual lathe with PO stating it was for both wood and metal. Unless dual in this case means something else. I have used it for nothing but metal-well turned up some plastic also to use in the electrolysis tank. It is used for what a lathe is most used for-turning and facing of metal.

The model number I will have to walk out and get-standby. The manual is not the one for this lathe-the PO stated at time of purchase. This manual says the model number is on a plate attached to the bed-I found no plate on any of the four sides of the bed.

So need to start there and figure out the model from those who would know. I can attach more pics to aid in that.

You also helped sort out the different qctp holders. I have heard the piston/wedge debate also. I will have to look at the lathe at work and see what that is for any first hand experience there, but that lathe is a basket case. So not going to be a good example for repeatability of anything. I do have a mill so modifying the threaded plate is doable for me. That is a good common sense idea on the multiple holders.

Would also have to find or manufacture some type of carriage stop-at times that is a hassle not having that so any ideas and info there would be helpful.

Is there a way to reply to a post without the quote?

Thanks,
Mike
 
Mike,

To answer your last question first, to reply without quote click the Reply button at the top of the thread, not one of the ones below each post in the thread.

The reason I thought that you thought it was a wool lathe is that in the photo you gave the link to, it is classified as woodworking machinery. If "Dual" in this case does mean both wood and metal, then there was probably once made a chisel support that attached either in place of the compound or to the front way.

The machine appears to be roughly equivalent to an Atlas-Craftsman 101.04703. If it is, there will be several spur gears under the cover on the left end. And as the machine clearly has a feed screw to drive the carriage toward and probably away from the headstock, it should be able to cut threads. The gears under the cover would be called Change Gears. Different conbinations of them would drive the carriage at different rates.. For feeds (for turning) the rates will be shown on the feed chart in decimal inches (for example, .0042"). That is how far the carriage advances per revolution of the spindle. For threads, the rate will be given as threads per inch. Did you get any loose gears with the machine?

What model or Series lathe is the manual that you have written for? I take it that you have looked at it and what it covers doesn't look like your machine. I checked the Downloads (where incidentally whomever set it up lumped Atlas and Clausing together - I have been trying for a year to get it split-doing it myself is above my paygrade) and don't see any Clausing manuals on anything that looks like your machine.

I would assume that Clausing once made and sold at least a single position carriage stop for your machine. Call them and ask. If they no longer have any, they should at least be able to give you the model number(s) so that you can look for one. However, carriage stops are a little more generic that steady rests. Meaning something made for another brand may work. What is the thickness of the front of the way near the headstock? I have a 3-position one made to fit a 3/8" thick way. I bought it and was going to make a new clamp bar so that it would fit my machine. But then one of the eBay sellers I bought several accessories from contacted me and said he had finally found another original Atlas 6-position one, which I immediately bought.

Also, when you ask Clausing for the model numbers for the steady rest and carriage stop, ask about a cross-feed stop. These are less likely to interchange between different models and brands as they usually clamp onto the dovetails, which vary a lot.

Robert D.
 
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This is why I usually put Mike Scott, both my first and last names. Since it already shows up twice on this forum I have been signing just Mike. :))

Oops! Oh you mean that big "Reply to Thread" button that is more obvious than my name?

The lathe did not come with anymore gears. It has longitudinal feed but no half nuts for cutting threads. The front of the carriage has some raised areas where that would of gone as shown in these pics.
11438-A.jpg
lathe 001.jpg

The thickness of the way is just under 3/4 at the headstock at the top of the V.
The V shaped way by the headstock in this pic.
11438-B.jpg

The manual I have is for a 4800 series 12" lathe. The headstock, cover(s), and tailstock are all different. The tailstock locking mechanism on mine is merely a carriage bolt going up through it with a nut which is a hassle as a wrench is needed to tighten and loosen it and with that fine of a thread, although it is the course tpi for that diameter, this takes about three small swings or movements with a 12 pt. box end of a wrench shown here.
lathe 002.jpg

The link with the pictures use to be just woodworking. It is now expanded into metalworking, steam engines, old electric motors, dust blowers, anything considered vintage remotely related to those machines. Heck if you have an unusual machine badge pic with no machine it gets submitted so people can recreate a badge should they have a machine. Hence the reason I am here. Was hoping someone here could help to put a model number to the lathe before calling Clausing, but maybe they could sort it out as well. I will send them an e-mail with a pick and see how far that goes.

It did not come with a "banjo" type tool rest for gouges for working wood.

11438-A.jpg 11438-B.jpg lathe 002.jpg lathe 001.jpg
 
Mike,

My bad. I corrected it.

Yes, the big REPLY button. :)

I happen for some reason to have a PDF of the 4800 series manual. I was going to clean it up and put it in Downloads but haven't gotten around to it. I did look at the apron assemblies and since Clausing also built your machine, you are probably right about those unused pads in your apron casting. That apron assembly is more complicated than the 5-speed all synchro gearbox in my Land Rover. Probably cost about three times as much as a lead screw and pair of half nuts. However, this being the Clausing Forum, I won't say any more.

The tailstock lock on your machine is functionally similar to the one on my Atlas. But it only takes one sweep of the built-in wrench on the Atlas to go from free to locked. They may not have finished the underside of the bed on yours.

On the carriage stop question, I was expecting that the "V" rail on top of the carriage was set back about 1/2" or so, leaving a flat surface at the front. A carriage stop to fit your machine is going to have to have a "V" in it. I don't think that the 3-position one I have surplus could even be modified to fit.

Hopefully, someone will come along who recognizes your machine.

Robert D.
 
Okay got an e-mail back from Jolene at Clausing indicating where the serial number would be and with that she could send a pdf of the manual. It is now the holiday weekend. Probably won't hear back until Monday. Serial is 3731S.
 
Sounds as though you are about to be able to start making some progress. Jo does what she says she will do. Unfortunately, a couple of others there don't.

Robert D.
 
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