Collets er32 for SB 10K Lathe

The word "modified" #3 taper just means that the length is not standard, what I've seen is if you insert a standard taper sleeve or tool, more than the usual amount sticks out past the face of the spindle, and yes, a drawbar would be necessary, morse tapers are not made to resist loosening under side loads, when they are used for milling, there is a drawbar or retention key slot in the tool and spindle and a tapered key or draw key is used. Historically, that is why shallower tapers such as the Brown & Sharpe were used.
Thanks that helps.
 
Would think that a chuck mount collet ER system would be preferred in that you could pass stock through the collet. An ER40 allows larger stock but you may be limited by the spindle bore. You can either buy the mounting plate and ER chuck separate and machine them or there are a few vendors that sell them as a set. You still need to do a skim cut and a registration step. There is also the Shar's Set-True ER40 chuck, you would need to machine a back plate.

ER collets are not designed to hold stock that isn't passed through the hole collet, so if you try to hold say a 1/2" piece in the collet the unsupported portion of the collet can skew when tightening the collet. A 5C collet holds at the tip of the collet, so can hold very short pieces of stock, but ER has better gripping power with longer stock.
Good infromation to think about before any purchase is made. Often I end up with "small" pieces to try to hold.
 
Did not know that! Will have to rethink my direction. Thanks.

I bought mine from Beall, and posted about it here:
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/is-there-a-definitive-article-on-collets.36227/post-308226

others have made their own adaptor and bought the nut and collets:
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/adjusting-a-taper-bore.48728/post-411786

hey, here's a post where I list link to some self-made ones:
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/collets.52909/post-441312

-brino
 
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