Craftsman 101 Bearings and Race?

I’m not aware of any public sites that have cross references across all the brands, the best way is to have your local bearing distributor do the work for you. If you want to do that yourself, usually you need to go to a manufacturers site and use their cross reference, or you can use the dimensions of your bearing and find the part number in each manufacturers catalog. Keep in mind, not many companies make inch sized tapered roller bearings, so your selection is not going to be very large.

If you put your bearing number into one of the distributors online catalogs, you’ll see who makes a TRB in that size and can then dig down into the details of the part number to see if they are identical. You’ll see a lot of them will say call for price, that usually means it’s not a stocked item and they’ll have to see where they can get one. Inch bearings are not used much in new equipment, so manufacturers may only do a small run once in a while on the less popular sizes, so it can be hit or miss on availability. The same is true of metric bearings, but more so with inch due to the lower demand.
 
We have lift off! I have fully serviced the headstock and she's running beautifully. I may post a pic and vid tomorrow, but for now I'm exhausted, but still super pumped! Thank you all for the tips and thank God I didn't go spend $400 on bearings and races.

Every part of the headstock was soaked in kerosene for several hours and meticulously scrubbed with a small wire brush. Evacuated with compressed air, wiped down with shop towels and well lubricated. I replaced the adjustable belt with a heavy duty v-belt. Unfortunately I'm impatient so I didn't order one of the recommended brands. It is though a quality drive belt. I must say that installing that belt was honestly more work than rebuilding the headstock. In the process though I did find that the oilers on the swing we 100% useless. The brass sleeves had no holes for the oil to run through. Putting oil in the fill hole did absolutely nothing. So they're drilled and functional now.

I did find also that the nut attached to the leadscrew in the base of the carriage is badly worn as well. $35 and I have a new one, so that's on the way now. As is cutting a section of steel pipe the difference from one side of the wall to the other is a mere 0.005 inches. I assume that will get knocked down a bit more with the new carriage nut.

I am absolutely stoked.

Thanks again,
John
 
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