Cutting a shank down to size

durableoreo

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter Gold Member
Joined
May 3, 2020
Messages
229
I've been looking at boring heads lately. It's a potentially expensive hobby, I admit. Most of the really nice stuff is less available in R8. It makes me think of how tapers are selected for a given tool. I think the main reason is that certain tapers are common. If you want to sell tools, 50 years ago, you've got to provide an MT4 shank option. But sometimes the MT4 is probably more than you need for a tenthset boring head.

Which Morse taper is equivalent to R8 if torque is the main consideration? Is torque a consideration for boring operations? When I bore holes, I am taking fairly light cuts so torque may not be figure of merit.

MT2-R8 adapters are common. Is it crazy to cut down an MT3 to MT2 on a Wohlhaupter UPA3? Is a UPA4 or 5 too big for a Grizzly G0755 mill?
 
Wohlhaupters are boring/facing heads . What are your size requirements for boring and do you need the facing option ? Why not go with an R8 to start ?
 
Last edited:
IMHO MT2 would lack the rigidity and would possibly fall out of the taper. Would be a really Big Aw Sh** moment.
 
Wohlhaupters are boring/facing heads . What are your size requirements for boring and do you need the facing option ? Why not go with an R8 to start ?
There aren't many with R8 shanks for sale.
 
There aren't many with R8 shanks for sale.
The smaller UPAs have MT2 tapers which use an R8 adapter and there are many different heads with R8 shanks . The heads won't fall out . Depends on if your heart is set on a Wohlhaupter . Straight shafts are available and most shanks are interchangable .
 
IMHO MT2 would lack the rigidity and would possibly fall out of the taper. Would be a really Big Aw Sh** moment.
A mill with a Morse taper spindle has a draw bar, I think. And there are some that have a locking key. Topper made a video about that. So some MT4 tooling looks like it has a hole for a drift but it's for a draw key. You can see it action here:
 
The smaller UPAs have MT2 tapers which use an R8 adapter and there are many different heads with R8 shanks . The heads won't fall out . Depends on if your heart is set on a Wohlhaupter . Straight shafts are available and most shanks are interchangable .

Trying not to get emotionally involved! But Wohlhaupter is my favorite so far. There are some Narex and D'Andrea units out there but those command quite a price. I should be sensible and get a Chandler or Precision. They are less money and probably good enough. No travel limits, though.

Would a UPA4 be too big for the G0755? It's basically an RF-45 with R8 spindle.
 
That's a pretty big head so your RPMs may be limited on a smallish machine . It depends on the size you need to bore . I just sold my Narex UPA 1 3/8s to Mike on here . This was a 3 1/2" head . It would do anything I ever needed to do . I have a 4" Enco/Gamet and UPA1 Wohlhaupter here , both are listed . :grin:
 
I prefer straight shanks for tools that don't require maximum rigidity, like chucks and boring heads. Much less clearance (knee cranking) required to get them in and out. I even shorten the shanks. I only get R8 shanks on things like big fly-cutters and face mills.

20220622_154441.jpg WP_20180111_10_02_06_Pro.jpg
 
I like the Chandler Duplex boring and facing head best, but I think if most work does not involve facing or recessing, a plain boring head is the best choice. I would not have one with a Morse taper, which is not considered a self holding taper, it would need a drawbar or draw key to stay seated.
Most boring heads have interchangeable shanks, with the exception of the Precision, which incidentally has a rather narrow range of diameter adjustment without having to reset the tool, but has one feature, seldom seen in other boring heads, the ability to adjust diameter while it is rotating. The Precision also uses a draw key on its #4 MT heads.
 
Back
Top