Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro

O

OTmachine

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Our son got me one of these to keep me busy during my upcoming forecasted downtime. Do not know how long it will be as of yet. Set it up and ran it two nights ago printing out the sample Buddha file and an Apex Bit driver handle which both came out good. Last night we printed a 3D articulated dragon for the grandkids. Came out good also using Elegoo gray PLA filament, ( he sent me a roll of that for starters also). A lot to learn about these machines. Lots of do’s and don’ts. Looks like they run on standard G-code, which I am familiar with from about 30 years ago. I will have to get up to speed on CAD if I want to print out parts for sand cast molds and such. Running some Flashforge Burnt Titanium tonight to print an articulated octopus. Machine looks promising for a low cost.
 
Congratulations!
I have one of those in the back of my SUV. Still in the box. Plan to give it to my son/grandson since I have a Prusa (clone) that works good enough.
They can be addictive.
 
OTmachine said:
Our son got me one of these to keep me busy during my upcoming forecasted downtime. Do not know how long it will be as of yet. Set it up and ran it two nights ago printing out the sample Buddha file and an Apex Bit driver handle which both came out good. Last night we printed a 3D articulated dragon for the grandkids. Came out good also using Elegoo gray PLA filament, ( he sent me a roll of that for starters also). A lot to learn about these machines. Lots of do’s and don’ts. Looks like they run on standard G-code, which I am familiar with from about 30 years ago. I will have to get up to speed on CAD if I want to print out parts for sand cast molds and such. Running some Flashforge Burnt Titanium tonight to print an articulated octopus. Machine looks promising for a low cost.
Click to expand...
Congrats on the printer. I built a Voron 2.4 and use it extensively for projects in my shop.

The only G-code you will need to be concerned with will be the start and stop G-code, and you may not even need to know any of that. I was using Cura for my slicer but have propagated over to Orcaslicer.
Below is a screenshot of a print I did recently. It is an extension cord holder that is mounted on the back side of my moveable workbench. If you look on the right side, you will see that there are about 1.5 million g-code lines. The slicer does all of that.
 

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7milesup said:
Congrats on the printer. I built a Voron 2.4 and use it extensively for projects in my shop.

The only G-code you will need to be concerned with will be the start and stop G-code, and you may not even need to know any of that. I was using Cura for my slicer but have propagated over to Orcaslicer.
Below is a screenshot of a print I did recently. It is an extension cord holder that is mounted on the back side of my moveable workbench. If you look on the right side, you will see that there are about 1.5 million g-code lines. The slicer does all of that.
Click to expand...

Looking at that cord holder, I’ll bet you could print that on its end and use a lot less support material on the overhangs.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
vtcnc said:
Looking at that cord holder, I’ll bet you could print that on its end and use a lot less support material on the overhangs.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
It might be possible, but I would need to re-design the end slightly so it sits flat on the bed. The webs would still need support.

One thing I did was use trees for support. I am not 100% sold on that type of support. It may use less material, but it seems to take more time.
 
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