- Joined
- Jan 28, 2011
- Messages
- 3,484
Not sure of your experience, my apology if I am seeming to be long winded.
What I have done was, jack up the motor a little bit, remove the two cross motor mount bolts, continue jacking up the motor enough to slip in a couple pieces of wood etc for a spacer between the mount parts, set the motor down and remove the pan. Lower the oil pump and carefully watch for the extension drive shaft. Remove the rr main cap. Take the lower seal to the parts counter and maybe bring in the pan as well. There are a few differing pan shapes.
The main oil seal should be a two piece if it was converted from a rope.As you found out the 1 or 2 lip version has to be answered by pulling the old seal out. Getting the top half out is an issue. Usually one pushes from one side with a wood or brass rod so that you can grab the opposite side with pliers. Just don't nik the journal as you pull the seal around until you can remove it.
Oil the new seal to make it move easier and carefully push it around the crank until the ends are even on both sides. Clean off any oil/grease residue and add a dab of sealer at the two ends. Reinstall the cap.
While you have the oil pump off, with the drive shaft extension in your hands, you may want to replace the plastic coupler that attaches the extension shaft to the pump. Cheap insurance on an old engine. Look over the oil pump screen and check that the oil pickup tube is firmly pushed into the casting. They tend to walk out over the years. A little tack weld will hold it in place.
If you decide to replace the pump with a better one, please use a high VOLUME version not high pressure pump. The high volume pump has a longer/deeper body for the taller gears that is the pump. A high pressure pump only has a stronger spring at the blow off valve, but the gears are the same size as a regular pump. Unless you are turning over at high rpm a lot, volume is more important than pressure.
For the oil pan gaskets, glue them to the pan side rails with gasket cement, silicone will work but it is a pain later in life. The two rubber end gaskets are pita, they are always a bit larger then the old ones and you must force the pan high enough to get the bolts to thread in. Also watch the frt timing cover as you push up the pan into place, you want a good seal, some mechanics, includes me as well, will add silicone to the frt and rr rubber seals to make a better seal.
I may have forgotten something but if I was doing the job it would refresh my memory to what I missed here. As the sm Chevy is the most produced engine ever, ther are lots of walk throughs etc all over the net.
Pierre
What I have done was, jack up the motor a little bit, remove the two cross motor mount bolts, continue jacking up the motor enough to slip in a couple pieces of wood etc for a spacer between the mount parts, set the motor down and remove the pan. Lower the oil pump and carefully watch for the extension drive shaft. Remove the rr main cap. Take the lower seal to the parts counter and maybe bring in the pan as well. There are a few differing pan shapes.
The main oil seal should be a two piece if it was converted from a rope.As you found out the 1 or 2 lip version has to be answered by pulling the old seal out. Getting the top half out is an issue. Usually one pushes from one side with a wood or brass rod so that you can grab the opposite side with pliers. Just don't nik the journal as you pull the seal around until you can remove it.
Oil the new seal to make it move easier and carefully push it around the crank until the ends are even on both sides. Clean off any oil/grease residue and add a dab of sealer at the two ends. Reinstall the cap.
While you have the oil pump off, with the drive shaft extension in your hands, you may want to replace the plastic coupler that attaches the extension shaft to the pump. Cheap insurance on an old engine. Look over the oil pump screen and check that the oil pickup tube is firmly pushed into the casting. They tend to walk out over the years. A little tack weld will hold it in place.
If you decide to replace the pump with a better one, please use a high VOLUME version not high pressure pump. The high volume pump has a longer/deeper body for the taller gears that is the pump. A high pressure pump only has a stronger spring at the blow off valve, but the gears are the same size as a regular pump. Unless you are turning over at high rpm a lot, volume is more important than pressure.
For the oil pan gaskets, glue them to the pan side rails with gasket cement, silicone will work but it is a pain later in life. The two rubber end gaskets are pita, they are always a bit larger then the old ones and you must force the pan high enough to get the bolts to thread in. Also watch the frt timing cover as you push up the pan into place, you want a good seal, some mechanics, includes me as well, will add silicone to the frt and rr rubber seals to make a better seal.
I may have forgotten something but if I was doing the job it would refresh my memory to what I missed here. As the sm Chevy is the most produced engine ever, ther are lots of walk throughs etc all over the net.
Pierre
) Mac