Grinding HSS

I know many are going to disagree, but I have used this with great success for a couple of years. No issues.
I use a masonry bit, and it's worked well. Just small dimples.


Also the arbor flanges are extremely important. Crappy stamped ones lead to crappy problems. The machined ones work great.
edit: I do this on my benchtop grinders, and my surface grinder.. no diff..
 
Another followup question. I have BXA sized QCTP, and holders. Was thinking of getting some 1/2 x 1/2 x 4 blanks.

Any advice on what I should look for in blanks when starting out? Was hoping to snag a deal on eBay, but there are options on steel types, etc.

Thanks!
 
Christianstark said:
Another followup question. I have BXA sized QCTP, and holders. Was thinking of getting some 1/2 x 1/2 x 4 blanks.

Any advice on what I should look for in blanks when starting out? Was hoping to snag a deal on eBay, but there are options on steel types, etc.

Thanks!
Click to expand...
If you can find MO MAX or REX 95.. those are very good and there's cobalt in them. Most all USA HSS from the old days is quality.
Greenfield, union, fansteel vr/wessonm tantung, stellite SP?

you're going to have to do some research. Some HSS are super HSS, and don't like the shock of cooling.. There's an awful lot of good old HSS.
Don't be afraid to buy shaped HSS, if it has enough meat left, it can be reshaped, or cut and reshaped to meet your needs.
 
I also have a BAX but I rarely use 1/2" tool bits. The reason, it takes a lot longer to grind them. I've got all the sizes but the most common I use is 3/8". But just remember the smaller the tool bit the less stick-out you can have before chatter sets in. I usually do a quick follow-up on a diamond "stone." Doesn't take much, just don't ruin your clearance angle. I've tried making chip breakers on the top of the tool but I personally don't think it is worth the hassle. Putting a bit of nose radius on improves the finish, a lot! Play with it until you are happy.
I like the star wheel dresser that I have. Pretty easy to get a flat true edge on the wheel. It is very quick. You need to put enough pressure on it to quickly cut, not just spark. The less sparks the better it is cutting. If you have fastened you grinder to the bench consider making tool rests that are bolted to the bench. Put a miter slot in the surface of the rest. Let the top of the rest go around the wheel and stick out on both sides. Kind of "U" (with square corners) shaped. If you get the soft white wheels, Norton s good.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top