Help Identifying some used tooling

todd281

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I recently bought some to tooling from a local machine shop that is closing. As usual, in some of the boxes there is some tooling that I have questions about and thought that maybe someone here could help me out. First, there is a dead center. The box states it was made by the Chicago Manufacturing and Distribution Co. It describes it as a "Helical Ground Center" [please see the attached pictures] Question is what the purpose was for the helical ground tip? The next two items are 5c collet fixtures. One has the name, "D A O Chuckollet San Jose Calif" in raised lettering on it. I think it is used similar to an emergency collet. I have several of the replaceable jaws that were included, but do not know if they are new. [I do not know what the new ones look like] I tried Googleing it but got nowhere. Anyone ever seen/used one? The last item is also a 5c attachment. It is a internal expanding collet but has no manufacturers name on it. Included were quite a few heads for it and I can see me using this. I would like to know the maker of it so I might buy replacement parts. [Again, see the pictures] Thanks in advance for any information.
 

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Dead centers were once used in lathes and are still used in cylindrical grinders . The slots are for holding center saver grease , once white lead .

I've also seen dead centers with the rings denoting that they were hardened or they were not . Can't remember which way though .
 
The collet chuck is what you said it is . Hardinge makes them still and they are used in conjunction with the collet rings . I wouldn't try to use them without the rings , funny things happen . :grin:
 
The last is indeed an expanding arbor collet . Most likely a tapered thread which cause the expansion . What replacement parts are needed ?
 
Dead centers were once used in lathes and are still used in cylindrical grinders . The slots are for holding center saver grease , once white lead .

I've also seen dead centers with the rings denoting that they were hardened or they were not . Can't remember which way though .
The center with the ring would be soft. They were left soft so they could be trued up in the headstock spindle with a cutting tool, as after reinserting in the spindle, they would likely not run perfectly true. I used match marks on the spindle nose, taper bushing and center so that they could be reinserted and run quite close.
 
Thanks for the replies. I thought that the grooves in the dead center were probably lubrication but having never seen one like this I thought I would ask. I will check on the replacement jaws for the chuckcollet and see what Hardinge offers. as for the last expanding arbor collet, I have quite a few of the sacrificial parts but they have already been cut. While they are still useable for recutting to smaller diameters, I would like to get a few new replacements to have on hand. Without knowing who made it I would not be able to order them. I was hoping that someone would recognize it, and be able to tell me the manufacturer.
 
On the center, I note that CMD is the same company that markets the CenterSaver grease.
It has been AGES since I've seen center saver grease . :) Ran it on the cylindrical grinders back in the 70s and 80s , so it's still around these days ?
 
Those expanding collets are a breeze to make Todd . ;) Bainbridge 'eh ? Go by there all the time and also broken down there twice . :grin: I run 205 in Oneonta north up to the Adirondacks where my property is located .
 
The expanding collet works by retracting the flat head screw into the body which is secured in the 5C shaped body. Yes a rather simple shop-made bit of tooling, as stated above.
Sometimes, an odd, shallow, expanding arbor is needed, that is not at hand. Turn the diameter needed in a solid bar of larger diameter to create a shoulder, then drill and tap for a pipe plug, and cut 2 or 3 cross slots. The tapers are built in, generating the outward movement needed.
Requiring a flush version, drill and tap machine threads, then bore a taper of 7 to 11°, via compound. Then insert matching socket head cap screw with a jam nut to secure in place, taper it at same compound setting. Remove jam nut, slot the face as above, you're in business. This version performs best when bore is longer than head of screw, also best to use a substantial size screw with finer series thread pitch, withstanding higher torque, creating more displacement. Shallow slots resist deflection, too deep and they'll spring and deform.
 
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