Help me understand this amperage thing.

I was just trying to understand why it appears that the listed amperage is only for one leg of the 220 volts.
It is the practice in the motors and multiphase electricity world to list only the current per phase, as (1) they try really hard to make all the currents balanced and (2) the current per phase tells you how big your wires need to be, while the sum of all three phase currents is just confusing if you're trying to pick wire size.

This is interesting, if it IS 460V how the heck am I running this thing on 230V???
Many electrical motors will run on a lower voltage of the right frequency if the moon is in the right phase and the wind is from the right direction.

Or maybe it's internally jumpered for 230V.
 
Hey RG, it sounds as if you know something about this, how could one determine if "it is internally jumpered"? Since I am running it off a freq drive, could that maybe "make the wind blow properly"? I'm obviously not an EE, just trying hard to understand. Thank you for your input, all of you that have chimed in.
Gratefully, Bob
 
Actually, not many EEs know this stuff any more. Power specialists try to get out of AC power line stuff all they can, and no one who can do the math wants to be stuck in power engineering. No money there. But I did have some motors classes and did design transformers for a while.

The only way to tell if it's internally jumpered, etc. is to open it up and look for any possible jumpering. Then the problem is that it may have been rewound to some particular voltage.

The only non-laboratory way I know to see what voltage it's supposed to be running at is to slowly increase the voltage to it a nominal power line frequency, and watch the current it draws with no load on the motor, just spinning itself. The current will increase more-or-less linearly until at some point it will start increasing more quickly than it has before. That's the onset of magnetic saturation in the iron, and the voltage-divided-by-frequency there should not be exceeded. This is where energy starts going into the iron, not moving the motor. The current there is much less than full load current, because it's not turning a load, so the magnetizing current is the majority of the power in. Gotta have good, easy spinning bearings to find this point. A mechanical load will cover up the place where magnetizing current increases. It's not an easy test, even though it only needs a variable voltage source and a current meter.

The volts-per-Hertz is a maximum for the motor. Using a variable frequency drive allows you to run the motor at less than the design frequency, and that means that your VFD has to be smart enough to reduce volts with frequency. Most are, but it's something to be aware of.

You know, the more I think about it, maybe the best thing if you want to know about it is to find a motor rewinding place and find the old, grouchy guy in the back room and ply him with donuts, or cigars or something to tell you all he can about the motor. These guys usually feel underappreciated, so it often works. He should at least be able to tell you what not to run it over.
 
RG, I laughed out loud on reading your last paragraph, There's a motor shop in town, maybe I'll just take 'er down there and see what they can determine. I really do appreciate your input. The thing starts up nicely as it is, and though I haven't really put a lot of load on her, it seems to run fine.
Thanks again, and if I can get some good info, I'll post back.
Respectfully thankful.
Bob
 
Let me know what you find out. My advice may not help much, but it doesn't even cost a donut. :D
 
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