- Joined
- Jan 23, 2012
- Messages
- 1,216
can anyone shine any light on this problem ? im going to paste from the atv forum with questions and answers I had some help from. . . . .
the guy that has been helping me has disappeared from the face of the earth and im really stuck. . . .
Honda electric story
I have what I always thought was aforeman es 400, the title says 450 but never the less it’s a 2001 model.computer read out on the handlebars went goofy a few years ago so it won’t tellyou what gear it’s in or hour and miles that have been put on it but hasstarted and ran very well up until this spring. It has a winch and a v-plow andthat's about it.
Problem is there is a short in the ignition system circuit. I think I know thisbecause I have removed both accessories from the electrical system, and takenoff the negative cable from the battery.
Between the neg cable and the battery Ihave a voltage /buzzing circuit tester that tells me there is a slight shortmaking the tester buzz quite weakly and the buzz goes away when I remove theign fuse. Removing any of the other fuses does not make the buzzer tester stopmaking noise.
It all the fuses back in the fuse box, whenI turn the ignition on, the buzzing gets much louder, just as it would if Iwere to go between the two battery terminals directly with the test buzzer.
So it’s a minor (if there is such athing) low amperage short somewhere. Further testing with a real amp meter tester, it registers .3 amps. When the machine is running it is charging atabove 14 volts so I know that chargingis ok
the machine still runs but the battery goes dead in a short period of time andthe battery is new. . .
Before I tear any more apart on this thing, could someone guide me as to whator where I should start?
(answer)
"Try tounplug the voltage reg./rectf. On right rear under rear fender above the rightrear tire..If it has a short will drain batt. And not charge. "
(more testing)
The same little beep comes even with theplug on the top of the regulator / diode assembly disconnected.
The book I have sez “check the yellowwires for continuity to ground” and yes there is.
then I unplugged the nasty plug that's called the "alternator connector"in the book and checked what I think is the yellow wires for continuity toground and the resistance between them, it sez .93 ohms across those two.
No continuity on those two wires to ground but what appears to be a green wiredoes make the meter go beep to ground.
I have both plugs disconnected as described above and I reconnected the beepertester between the neg. batt. terminal and the negative wire that'sdisconnected from that terminal and there is still a short. And again, it goesaway when I pull the "ign" fuse.
Idisconnected a five pin plug that's attached to the frame, ahead of the rightrear tire. in the diagram its referred to as 5P and has five wires that threeof, go to the alternator and one that goes to the ignition pulse generatoranother shows to go to ground. I have both plugs disconnected and I still showa .3amp short across the negative battery cable to the battery.
The directions in the book on page 17-8 sez to check at both these plugs on theyellow cables for continuity to ground and between them which I describedabove.
, I still have a.3amp short thatdisappears if I pull the "ign" fuse. In other words, no change.
I’ll be looking for more ideas. .
(answer)
"Should have continuity between the yellowwires from each other but no ground from other of the yellow wires....If youare checking from alternator to voltage regulator...with harness unplugged...Ihave to look at manual 2mrw I don’t remember blue/yellow wire at voltageregulator 5 pin connector..pin there should be 3 yellow, one red, onegreen,,Plz list your color in 5 pin at voltage regulator..What color wires isin the ignition fuse you are removing? Howdo you know ignition fuse? What amp fuse is it?"
I havea c/d copy of the manual. my machine is a 2001 foreman es. . electric shift.the orig. title card says it’s a 450 so that's the manual I looked for andpurchased.
the fuse that make the problem go away is located in the fuse box of 6 behindthe battery. the two end fuses are spares and the ign fuse is the one that ifremoved, stops the short. it’s a 10 amp.
(answer)
"OkDavid..Did you unplug you combo meter on handlebar? The ES model has an voltagedrain there because of the memory of hours, clock, Is meter lens broken orcracked? Go to the meter section in manual..I’ll bring mine home Thursday nitean look at it and try to help you get this thing cyber teched for you. Just bepatience an DONT get hammer out yet...lol"
when Idisconnected the dash plug, the beep went away. so, I will jump eachpin to its corresponding socket one at a time and see if anyone causes it tobeep again. I suspect I will need to check the diagram and at least hook up theneg pins to be constantly connected between the plug and socket while I do mytesting.
next day:
I didmake a jumper wire to connect the two brown wires/pins together. (just likehaving the plug put together but only the brown wires which are the grounds. ..) then I took another test lead and connected to each post on the "hotside " of the plug, and with a pin connected to the test lead on the otherend, I poked it into each of the contacts on the plug that's connected to themeter. all this time I have the beep tester attached to the battery ground andcable ground. no sounds during that test. next, I attached a jumper from the brown wire that's still hooked ontothe two halves of the plug and touched the bl/red stripe on plug and full loudbeep came from the tester. looking at the diagram, I see that the bl/red stripewire goes to the ignition and should be “hot”. And that’s what the testproved.
I am now completely on hold, theguy that’s been guiding me has disappeared from the forum, maybe even the faceof the earth. I have the newcomputer dash assembly and at least I will have a working instrument clusteragain.
the guy that has been helping me has disappeared from the face of the earth and im really stuck. . . .
Honda electric story
I have what I always thought was aforeman es 400, the title says 450 but never the less it’s a 2001 model.computer read out on the handlebars went goofy a few years ago so it won’t tellyou what gear it’s in or hour and miles that have been put on it but hasstarted and ran very well up until this spring. It has a winch and a v-plow andthat's about it.
Problem is there is a short in the ignition system circuit. I think I know thisbecause I have removed both accessories from the electrical system, and takenoff the negative cable from the battery.
Between the neg cable and the battery Ihave a voltage /buzzing circuit tester that tells me there is a slight shortmaking the tester buzz quite weakly and the buzz goes away when I remove theign fuse. Removing any of the other fuses does not make the buzzer tester stopmaking noise.
It all the fuses back in the fuse box, whenI turn the ignition on, the buzzing gets much louder, just as it would if Iwere to go between the two battery terminals directly with the test buzzer.
So it’s a minor (if there is such athing) low amperage short somewhere. Further testing with a real amp meter tester, it registers .3 amps. When the machine is running it is charging atabove 14 volts so I know that chargingis ok
the machine still runs but the battery goes dead in a short period of time andthe battery is new. . .
Before I tear any more apart on this thing, could someone guide me as to whator where I should start?
(answer)
"Try tounplug the voltage reg./rectf. On right rear under rear fender above the rightrear tire..If it has a short will drain batt. And not charge. "
(more testing)
The same little beep comes even with theplug on the top of the regulator / diode assembly disconnected.
The book I have sez “check the yellowwires for continuity to ground” and yes there is.
then I unplugged the nasty plug that's called the "alternator connector"in the book and checked what I think is the yellow wires for continuity toground and the resistance between them, it sez .93 ohms across those two.
No continuity on those two wires to ground but what appears to be a green wiredoes make the meter go beep to ground.
I have both plugs disconnected as described above and I reconnected the beepertester between the neg. batt. terminal and the negative wire that'sdisconnected from that terminal and there is still a short. And again, it goesaway when I pull the "ign" fuse.
Idisconnected a five pin plug that's attached to the frame, ahead of the rightrear tire. in the diagram its referred to as 5P and has five wires that threeof, go to the alternator and one that goes to the ignition pulse generatoranother shows to go to ground. I have both plugs disconnected and I still showa .3amp short across the negative battery cable to the battery.
The directions in the book on page 17-8 sez to check at both these plugs on theyellow cables for continuity to ground and between them which I describedabove.
, I still have a.3amp short thatdisappears if I pull the "ign" fuse. In other words, no change.
I’ll be looking for more ideas. .
(answer)
"Should have continuity between the yellowwires from each other but no ground from other of the yellow wires....If youare checking from alternator to voltage regulator...with harness unplugged...Ihave to look at manual 2mrw I don’t remember blue/yellow wire at voltageregulator 5 pin connector..pin there should be 3 yellow, one red, onegreen,,Plz list your color in 5 pin at voltage regulator..What color wires isin the ignition fuse you are removing? Howdo you know ignition fuse? What amp fuse is it?"
I havea c/d copy of the manual. my machine is a 2001 foreman es. . electric shift.the orig. title card says it’s a 450 so that's the manual I looked for andpurchased.
the fuse that make the problem go away is located in the fuse box of 6 behindthe battery. the two end fuses are spares and the ign fuse is the one that ifremoved, stops the short. it’s a 10 amp.
(answer)
"OkDavid..Did you unplug you combo meter on handlebar? The ES model has an voltagedrain there because of the memory of hours, clock, Is meter lens broken orcracked? Go to the meter section in manual..I’ll bring mine home Thursday nitean look at it and try to help you get this thing cyber teched for you. Just bepatience an DONT get hammer out yet...lol"
when Idisconnected the dash plug, the beep went away. so, I will jump eachpin to its corresponding socket one at a time and see if anyone causes it tobeep again. I suspect I will need to check the diagram and at least hook up theneg pins to be constantly connected between the plug and socket while I do mytesting.
next day:
I didmake a jumper wire to connect the two brown wires/pins together. (just likehaving the plug put together but only the brown wires which are the grounds. ..) then I took another test lead and connected to each post on the "hotside " of the plug, and with a pin connected to the test lead on the otherend, I poked it into each of the contacts on the plug that's connected to themeter. all this time I have the beep tester attached to the battery ground andcable ground. no sounds during that test. next, I attached a jumper from the brown wire that's still hooked ontothe two halves of the plug and touched the bl/red stripe on plug and full loudbeep came from the tester. looking at the diagram, I see that the bl/red stripewire goes to the ignition and should be “hot”. And that’s what the testproved.
I am now completely on hold, theguy that’s been guiding me has disappeared from the forum, maybe even the faceof the earth. I have the newcomputer dash assembly and at least I will have a working instrument clusteragain.
