VN Horizontal milling set up question

J

John TV

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I have a VN #12 and so far I’m loving this old machine. My nub ways have not broken anything more than end mills and pride but I still have so much to learn.

Question. Is there a proper procedure for setting up for horizontal milling? To date, I have just inserted the arbor, tightened that up, then placed the over arm support into the center hole and locked everything in place. Not considering if the overarm is in line with the center of the machine spindle. Is there a more correct way to do this? Sweep with indicator, etc?

Your thoughts are appreciated.

John from Minnesota


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You're pretty good if you just eyeball it.
Adjust the overarm support so the arbor spins as freely as possible (that will help align you perpendicularly).
Make sure the cutter isn't cocked on the arbor, although, most arbors have a little bend to them.
Even if you're out of wack, the worst that happens is your cutter wears a little faster, and your cut is slight;ly wider than you planned.
The stakes are low.
 
Thanks JRock,
Good to get some second opinions. Just made a boring bar for a small line boring repair on my Logan lathe countershaft. I will use the spindle with a collet on one end and the over arm support on the other to support the boring bar. I will use your suggestions to help ensure the bar is in alignment.

This forum is great.

John from Minnesota


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There is an old K&T video from the '40s or '50s on You Tube showing the set up on a horizontal mill. I just looked and of course can't locate it right now. You might try searching for it. Maybe your search skills are better than mine.
 
Not familiar with your model, I use an Atlas benchtop. Taught myself to use it, essentially the same way you did. Most of my work is light, brass and aluminium with small cutters. I don't do steel as a rule, yet. . . so don't have any problem with the small machine flexing.

There are two ways to rotate the cutter, relative to the work. Conventional and "Climb". The Atlas book I found states that they cannot do "climb" milling, the machine is too light. I can't really describe the difference, not being a good draftsman, but the essence is cutting up VS cutting down. Cutting up being preferable. . . A smoother finish with less stress on the machine. Having perused several books on the subject has given me some insight into the subject. Most books on the subject do touch on the matter so it must be seriously important.

My machine has been set up (I'm electrical) with a "drum" switch to reverse the motor. I ofter run small rotary (vertical??) milling cutters in a collet with an angle block. Haven't tried router cutters yet so have no opinion there. Setting up the power feed on the table so I can see as it cuts and running both directions gives me the flexability I need. Again, self taught, as a model builder.

I have been given to understand that the arbor seldom runs absolutely true so one side of the cutter will take a lighter cut than the other. I don't fully understand the concept as I get clean cuts properly sized but there is a "drumming" sound from the machine while it runs. I make light cuts to avoid it, but the cutter reaches a point where it "skims" the work rather than cut. So I dig out the books and study some more. One day I might be a machinist. . . There is much I don't know. I would suggest studying old books on the subject of horizontal mills to get a better understanding. Most modern books use the "Bridgeport" type mill as an example so stick with the old stuff.

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Thank you all for the advice and reply’s. Older books are a great suggestion. I’ll start looking. Next week when I get some time I hope to actually attempt the line bore. I will report back with a pic or two.

John


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