Igaging Dro

I mounted a set of the AccuRemote scales to my G0402 mill and I swear they seem to have about .003 of "backlash". Approaching a position from one direction, they seem to 'return to zero' pretty well, approach from the other direction and they're "off" by about 3 thousandths. I mounted them using PVC in an attempt to ensure I had no possibility of a current ground loop (I'm also using Yuriy's Android based DRO). I'm not convinced the backlash isn't introduced by the PVC mounting blocks, so I'm currently rebuilding them in aluminum.

As most folks have already said, don't expect them to be perfect, don't expect them to be nearly as accurate as a "real" DRO (discalimer: I have no experience with a "real" DRO to compare) and you won't be disappointed. For what they are, and the price point, these scales seem to be a winner.
 
On my lathe I set up a dial indicator at the cross slide and find that this does the job just fine. In fact, I use the cheap indicators from HF, they are also rated at +/- .001. I always use a mike to check for the final dimension.

On my tailstock I use a 4-inch digital caliper. This set up works well unless I need to turn between centers. It gets in the way of the cutting tool. I don't have one of those square tail stocks mine is 1942 round Southbend. At some point I'll need to design something a little better so it does not get in the way. Very happy with he digital setup.

I do have one of David's 6 inch direct read DRO's on my mill and I like it. This was a recent addition. Mine is the AccuRemote. I think its just a tad more accurate than the Ingaging DRO.

Paul
 
I used to have that problem on just one axis on my mill (well one read head).
I replaced the original cables with heavier shieded type cables.
I cleaned and I scrubbed and it was still having a "reset" problem, twas driving me totally insane.

I built Yuri's DRO based on the Arduino, I used a 3.3v nano, and (insert bad word here) me if it was still happening.

What did the trick for me was putting a 100n cap across the +Ve and Gnd (as per Yuri's circuit) fixed the problem and has been right as rain ever since.

If you have the skill it may be just a case of opening the read head and (if there is room) soldering a 100n cap across the +Ve and Gnd.

I know the iGaging scales aren't there with glass scales but I feel for my skill level they are doing just fine ATM and making life a lot easier.

Yuri's Android\Arduino\Igaging setup is a winner :thumbsup: . Unfornately I haven't got a Android tablet but did manage to install Android 4.0 on an Acer netbook. Works great apart from not having a touchscreen. Bluetooth is definitely much better way to connect than USB (well for me).
Hope this helps
Rob
 
I have iGaging DROs on two mills and two lathes. They help me get close, but I always check final sizes with calipers or micrometers anyway. They're absolutely necessary on the big Storebro lathe. The feed screws are metric.

Pretty good bang for the buck.
 
Call it the test of time. Not one problem, same batterys , I have even left it on once. I think these are more accurite than the dials, although
they both read the same. Since day one my epoxied scales have'nt moved a bit. My very first test after the epoxy cured was a six bolt hole
I just touched off a center drill just macking a dot, measured with dividers it was right on the money. I also bought the longest scales off Davidh, cause
mine is a 10 x 54, next I'm putting one on the knee. The display could be a little larger and back lit, but I'm not complaining. The more I think of
dials, is how good my eyes place it, how acurite did they stamp the tick marks. If one can get say .0015 on the dial your better than me, but I now
can with these dros. So they were payed for the first day in use, and now almost a year same batterys - I got no complaints even it they take a dump.
for that price
sam
 
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