Installing Wj200 Vfd On Pm 1340gt

Yes you could run a 3 phase RPC directly to the machine. Alternatively, I have another individual who will donate his original PM1340GT control system (I built a new system for him), and I can modify it to work with the WJ200 VFD or convert it over to a single relay system at no cost to you. If you mail me you WJ200, I could program it for you, wire everything up and mail it back to you. You would need to swap out the control boards, but it is just matching the wire numbers to the terminals and I provide pictures and wire labels. If you send me your old control box with your WJ200 VFD I can wire up everything to be almost turnkey (just connect the power in and the motor cable to the motor..
Mark
 
mksj said:
Yes you could run a 3 phase RPC directly to the machine. Alternatively, I have another individual who will donate his original PM1340GT control system (I built a new system for him), and I can modify it to work with the WJ200 VFD or convert it over to a single relay system at no cost to you. If you mail me you WJ200, I could program it for you, wire everything up and mail it back to you. You would need to swap out the control boards, but it is just matching the wire numbers to the terminals and I provide pictures and wire labels. If you send me your old control box with your WJ200 VFD I can wire up everything to be almost turnkey (just connect the power in and the motor cable to the motor..
Mark
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old control box? your offer sounds good to me, I'm for what ever it takes to get lathe up and running. I would be willing to pay if you could do the set up with all the add on's everyone is using, bump switch ( I can drill hole to mount toggle), speed control if you have good photo and directions I can run this also.
 
I would suggest you PM me with your email and phone number and I can help you through this. I build lots of these systems, and am pretty familiar with this machine. If you do not mind sending me the parts, I can get you a working system. It is possible to use the current control board (that I would send to you reconfigured), but we would still have the issue of programming the VFD. So it may be easier to use a single relay design and provide additional controls.

What I am suggesting is you can unbolt the control system box with the two 6 mm Allen screws on either side of the control board and remove it. Also remove the front control panel with the 4 screws. If you send the WJ200 VFD, the control box housing (NOT the current system board inside it) and the front control panel with switches, I can build a new system for you and program the VFD. You should just have to bolt the box to your machine and mount the front panel, connect power to the VFD and the motor lead. All the cables and switches will be mounted, so there should be no need for figuring it out and I will tune the VFD to the stock 3 phase motor. It takes me a while to get the parts in, so probably be 3 weeks once I get the system, I have a couple of other systems I am working on. We can go over the details, if you want other features, I would use the single relay design that uses the VFD power supply. I would do the speed control, 2 braking rates, jog forward, E-Stop if that works for you. I would need to replace the E-Stop switch with a 24VDC LED lighted one, I will use your current Jog button, add a braking rate switch and I have a speed pot that I will need to make an adapter to fit your panel. If you have a 24V light I will need to know that. Lets see what can be done. You would need to purchase a braking resister, I will provide links, they have 2 wires to connect.

You need to think where you want the VFD to be mounted. I am trying to keep it as simple as possible so you do not need to connect/disconnect any wires, so you could mount it on the wall behind the VFD, or the back or side of the headstock cabinet with a shield over the top of the VFD about 2-3 inches above it. The VFD power in can be configured for a plug or a direct connect, but should be on a 30A 240VAC breaker.
 
phone and email sent, I have disconnect allready mounted on wall behind lathe location, the plan was to mount vfd on wall right next to disconnect.

I have all kinds of e-stop switches here on hand, I will need to check rating on them, one of them may work or if you need any I may have what you need, Yes I do have the 24V light can jog be made to do forward or /and reverse.

to make sure I understand You want me to remove control panel from back of lathe located just above factory motor, and ship but you do not need anything inside the box?
and remove switch/control plate from front of lathe without removing anything and ship it also.

I should have those parts removed tomorrow morning and have them shipped to your location on before end of week

will purchase brake resistor that you reccomend soon as you can send me the link, do I have it shipped to me or have it shipped to you.

I do have a dedicated line for DRO it does have earth ground and I can use standard 15A or 20A receptacle if GFCI will trip due to VFD noise

I have nema box but after removing wj200 from box I am not sure if it will fit. may not be deep enough

Henry
 
The E-stop is a 22mm low voltage, but needs a 24VDC LED lamp. The complete system needs to be very frugal power wise. In the Jog, it can be outfitted with a direction toggle switch, I do a joystick on some builds, but this is getting to be a bigger build and more parts. All the switched would be replaced if you go the joystick route. I cannot start your build for at least 2 weeks, as I have other work commitments that are already lined up. I will line up yours after that. Will get you specs on the brake resistor, they can take 3-4 weeks from Asia.

I will need to speak to you about the light, the stock light is about 70W, so you (or I) can reuse the stock transformer to power the light. Alternative is to use a separate p24VDC power supply, there is limited choices since the box is so small and it is ordered from the factory in Asia.

GFI is no problem for the DRO, just can't connect a VFD to it. On the nema enclosure, it means you will need to undo the VFD wires to pass them through the strain reliefs. I do mark everything, but I am trying to keep assembly on your end to a minimum. The VFD is very deep, so needs at least a 7" deep enclosure on the interior.
Mark
 
ok jog can be just 1 direction, Basicly want to do this as simple as possible, stock light and transformer is just fine, brake resistor from ebay should do the trick just tell me which to get, the GFCI is for DRO only nothing else will be on circuit so should not be a problem, direction from DRO manufacture call for earth ground and earth ground breaker, I can get gfci breaker but figure gfci receptacle should work and I have 10-15 of them on shelf.
I have spent last few years wanting to get this finished so a few more weeks are no problem, will be removing parts from lathe today,
 
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