Is there a way to cut down a disc diameter from the face?

The original complaint was about making all the chips. If you want chips, make a deburring wheel extension for a buffer. Take a 3" diameter piece onf 1018. Turn a shaft of 1" diameter about 2" long leaving a 1/4" disk to but up against the wheel. Turn a 1" shaft 3/4" then the 1/4" disk and then a shaft 1.2" diameter 3/4" inch long Drill, bore. tap threads and turn recesses and mill flats to fit a wrench. Moved the ScotchBrite wheel out 3/4" which tripled production. Also filled a 20 lb cat food bag with chips and bird nest. That is what a lathe does.

Pretty certain Jo Pi did a video where he showed cleaning up a CNC machine at the end of the day. Used a shovel to fill garbage cans.
 
Charles scozzari said:
Why?
Click to expand...
If you wonder WHY you should stop before cutting all the way thru it’s safety.
Most of the time as the metal separates into two pieces the tool will break and the loose part can fly right into your face. At best it only breaks the tool.
 
Jimsehr said:
If you wonder WHY you should stop before cutting all the way thru it’s safety.
Most of the time as the metal separates into two pieces the tool will break and the loose part can fly right into your face. At best it only breaks the tool.
Click to expand...
My question of WHY is in regard to the method being used. It appears there is a guide being used at the base of the tool. You are able to use the tool without the center guide to eliminate the hole in the piece, which in most instances is the reason for using this cutter. Weather or not that is the case a 3" quality hole saw can be used on your mill table. I do quite a bit of this and it works great at slow speed with cutting oil or karosene. Remove the guide from the hole saw arbor, ( it's not necessary ) and place a piece of 3/4" plywood under the work and clamp the work, now on the plywood and clamp it down. When the cut is complete you can use your lathe for what ever to complete the job. The OD finish is mighty good when done. The plywood makes for a better finished edge as the hole saw completes the cut. This method is a lot safer. I've seen guys use a brush to try to remove the chips as the tool was spinning. Thank's.
 
Hole saws work if they are the size you need. But they only come in standard
sizes.
Pic shows part with 4 bearing races made out of one piece of tool steel. I don’t know if special size hole saws would work. Or how long they would hold up. And some of the 17-4 stainless parts were like 10 inch dia and 3 inches deep and had 7 inch slugs that we made other parts out of.
 

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Hello, I agree 100% with you as far as hole saws. I usually use hole saws to get within a 1/4" of the finish OD needed, that requires having a guide hole to mount the piece to an arbor for finishing the OD in the lathe. I was answering the question in the original post and would be what most hobby machinists might need as an option to try in basement shops, especially if you do not want to have a guide hole in the work, and if the OD is not critical. Thanks for the reply.
 
Blondihacks on trepanning:


Rick “recommending the whole ‘lathe skills’ series” Denney
 
Ok, guys, thanks again for all the help.

Trepanning is cool but more trouble than it's worth for now IMO. I turned my regular parting tool around and ground the other end to match what I saw on YouTube. It went deeper than the regular parting tool did, but still stalled the lathe when the outside of the groove hit the bottom of the tool. I could have done more grind-try cycles but...

My real problem was that I had the wrong idea about the turning tool. I had it angled so it was only cutting with one point, and I was drawing that across the work (along the long axis). I could only cut 5 mil at a time that way. After straightening the tool out and plunging it, cuts got a lot faster. Somehow the pile of shavings bothered me less when there was less time invested in them.

Regarding safety, my lathe is a low end Jet from Northern Tool, and it tends to stall rather than fling stuff. It's a good machine to learn on. I mostly have it to make rollers and shafts for small paper handling equipment.
 
A cutting tool ground from round HSS might make a decent trepanning tool. It has built-in relief to accommodate the circular cut path.

I haven't tried the idea so who knows for certain if it would work.
 
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