Lathe Chuck Quality

Since I already have the ID jaws it makes sense to me to just get the solid OD jaws - they are $180 new, where as a 2pc set would be $472!!

I'm curious though, is there any real advantage of 2-pc jaws over 2 sets (ID and OD) of solid jaws? The solid jaws seem to have a significantly lower profile than 2pc jaws, so it seems to me the solid jaws would generally be better, keeping the work piece closer to the spindle.
 
"Better" would be relative to one's particular environment I suppose. I like having two piece jaws because I can change setups in a couple of minutes and don't have to spin the jaws completely out of the chuck body to do so. However, the solids also work well and I have used them successfully in the past. At the end of the day they both make parts. :)
 
Ajax supply sells a set of the OD hard jaw 1 piece for $129. That is the simplest and most cost effective solution it would seem if you do not need a larger chuck. I do not know what there price would be for a 2-piece, but if you have a good set of ID jaws, then just get the OD set.
http://www.ajaxtoolsupply.com/ajcahasoodja1.html

Otherwise consider a 4 Jaw independent if you need a larger chuck, or need to clamp rectangular stock. A 4 jaw also allows you to get closer to a 0 TIR relative to your current chuck. If buying a 4-Jaw, don't buy the cheapest you can find, I purchase a cheap one and it will not spin past 300 RPM because of uneven castings.
 
Thanks for all the input, I picked up the jaws today. Hopefully they're "good enough" until I get a tool-post grinder rigged up.

Now I have another question... These jaws grip on the outside of the part (which is what I want). I have always referred to this style as either O.D. or "Outside" jaws, because they grip on the outside of the part. The Sowa catalogue also calls them O.D. jaws. But, the Bison website calls them Inside jaws, as does the print on the box. Is this just a European vs American thing?
 
I prefer the two piece jaws, you can buy or I make my own soft jaws that fit the chuck, then machine them to fit the part your working on. I close the chuck on a round object grabbing the solid part of the jaw, then bore the soft jaw to the size of the part your working on. Once bored you have zero run out. By boring a pocket in the jaws you have a depth stop for repudiative cuts. The soft jaws have more area on the part, so case less surface damage and hold better.

Greg
 
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