Lathe or Mill…I can't decide and I'm going nutz

[Andre]

I have turned small parts in my mill with a toolbit in the vise. Not a problem with it at all.

Now, if you get a small lathe (lets say a taig for now) you could make a verticle mount for it and use a milling attachment. It will work just like a mill and won't be sideways.

 

[KenS]

A lathe is the most versatile machine in the shop.

Guys,

George hit this one on the head. From the photo he posted, the OP is working with brass plate and bar stock. A lathe milling attachment can handle brass and aluminum stock like butter. (Steel can be a different matter.)

A lathe-mill combo machine might seem like a good compromise, but switching back and forth between operations can get old quick. And you lose both functions if your motor or electrical controls need repair, or a major component fails.

And I might regret saying this, but a mill requires a lot more expensive tooling than a lathe.

To the OP-- if your flat stock is mostly brass, get a lathe...

...Soon enough you'll also get a mill.

 

[CluelessNewB]

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Although normally I would think a lathe first your project look more like a mill project than lathe project to me.

 

[jamie76x]

I will disagree on the lathe being the most versatile machine in the shop ... The mill is equally or more versatile.

I worked i a small shop that only had mills once. I used to turn small parts all the time holding the work piece in the collet clamping the tool bit in the vise and still had power feed in 2 directions. Also with rotary tables you can get a lot done with that providing you are not doing tool and die work.

Naturally its best to have both and then some but If i had to pick just one, You betcha it would be a mill.

 

[JPMacG]

Codeman, I'm intrigued. Could you explain the tall bearing? Also, what keeps the paddle centered, and what stops the movement in the dot and dash directions?

73,
w2anz

 

[GK1918]

I have turned small parts in my mill with a toolbit in the vise. Not a problem with it at all.

And I thought I was the only one doing that especially with a form tool??

 

[chuckorlando]

Mill verse lathe as the most versatile machine is a debate that has gone on for ever. I thin the answer comes down to the guy running the machine. I know a high end cnc shop that started out with nothing but a bridgeport. Be hard pressed to explain to him how you cant turn on a mill being he payed for a 90k haus doing just that.

I like the mill my self.

 

[Shadowdog500]

For what you want to do I wonder if you want to find a jig borer.

It it is like a mill (and could easily do the light milling you want to do) but it's primary purpose is to locate and drill super accurate holes.
Chris

 

[Cadillac STS]

For doing what you need a mill would be my clear choice. If you were a seasoned machinist you could look at both ways and make it work out but a mill would be much more intuitive and you would start making parts first day easily. Set up, drill a hole, chamfer the hole, move the table so far, do the next exactly straight, etc..

For ease of use and time it would be much faster to set up your brass base on a mill, move it around and get all your holes done. For that in a lathe there is much more work and time involved, maybe set up in a 4 jaw and adjusting that every hole or with the vertically held milling attachment on your cross slide.

Also seems like you would need quite a large size lathe to swing the parts. Or a larger size lathe to fit a big enough milling attachment to make your parts. So more costly lathe than needed. Lot of guys would say why get an "Attachment" to do the proper job instead of just getting the right tool.

And you said you really don't turn anything you need right now.

And once you get a mill the lathe milling attachment which can be expensive wouldn't get much use.

Would be nice to see a contest on who could make the part better and and faster side by side doing that base both ways to help you decide. Calling Tubalcain... Youtube video demo contest...


PS: I really like the advice from the master machinist on trying to go with vintage methods with your particular project. Would be challenging to get it right and your pieces probably more valuable in the end.

 

[CODEMAN]

Codeman, I'm intrigued. Could you explain the tall bearing? Also, what keeps the paddle centered, and what stops the movement in the dot and dash directions?

73,
w2anz

It's called a "Torsion Bar Key". The 1/8" drill rod is held in place at the top and at the end of the finger piece bar and is free at the base. When you apply pressure in either direction it puts tension on the drill rod and when you release the tension, it returns to center. The action is really fantastic and with the contact strips it's virtually silent. Since it's a single lever key with 3 wires, it can be used as a regular paddle, a sideswiper (my favorite mode) and as a straight key.

73
Steve, W1SFR
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