New here, have some questions.

[Euclid]

On the Lathe, add up the cost of:
Brass Gibs, Longer cross travel Saddle (black DRO version), offset compound (for less chatter), LMS DRO kit, Longer 16 inch bed kit, cam-lock tail stock, Steel gear set for feed screw, steel gear set for the Headstock, tapered bearing set for the headstock, OXA Quick Change Tool Post, Saddle lock, Saddle Stop, 4 inch 3-Jaw Chuck, etc.

The existing 3 Jaw chuck which comes with your lathe can only open up about 1.15 inches with the inside jaws. If you put on the outside jaws, it will open up 2.75 inches. You may wish to put a larger outer diameter in your lathe than 2.75 inches. You may wish to chuck up something larger than 1.15 inches without swapping the jaws. The extended saddle will allow you to move your tool one inch further from the center line, which helps with some cuts on larger items. The brass gibs, tapered bearings, and offset compound all work together to give you less chatter. The OXA post makes tool change a breeze. Set the height once on a tool, and never have to touch it again (as long as you leave it in the same tool holder). Replace the plastic gears in the headstock for greater reliability. Replace the plastic feed screw gears with steel gears for better reliability. The saddle lock is great for when you are doing facing cuts, and you don't want to have to put the feed transmission in neutral (and engage the feed screw handle), to lock the position of the saddle. The saddle stop allows you to hit the exact same "facing" mark with great accuracy.

If you are into neatness, LMS sells a cover for the lathe, as well as steel wheels to replace the black plastic ones.

If you do nothing else, the OXA post is a good choice. it accepts tools up to 12mm or 1/2 inch in diameter.

Outstanding, that the information I was looking for. So pretty much it's a complete rebuild. Judging by the cost, would it be best to upgrade to a 8x 250# or more rig? I'm afraid the same amount of work would have to be done to it as well. Bringing the overall cost up along with it. I don't need a huge machine and 3/4 spindle bore is fine. I don't plan on turning anything more than 2.25" dia and 10" overall which can be done on a 16" bed. Call me crazy but I like 4 jaws. Just how I was taught. Yea it takes a little longer but you can do alot more with them.

What is your take on a motor upgrade or possible VS auto feed?

 

[addertooth]

Your admiration for 4 jaw chucks are well founded, you will receive no scoffing from me on that point. I just bought a 4 inch 4-Jaw chuck for that very reason. As for the ten inch length, that is very doable, provided you have no intention to drill or do Internal diameter cuts with a 16 inch bed. A 16 inch bed is 16 inches center (where the chuck is) and a center in the tailstock. Once you put a chuck on, you lose some length. Then, unless you will use a Morse taper drill (to avoid the length of the MT2 to Jacobs chuck adapter, the length of the Jacobs chuck, and the length of the drill itself).

I have a 7 X 16 lathe (it pretty much has all the add-on features I want), and would tell you that ten inch Part lengths would be decided by how stubby your drill bit is. Four Jaw chucks have the advantage of opening wider than their 3-jawed brethren. The lathe I am using has a 500 Watt, (about 5/8ths Horsepower), it seems to be plenty of power. It had no problem boring with a 3/4 drill bit, or working 2 inch diameters with a replaceable carbide tool. It is well understood that a well shaped and sharpened High Speed Tool Steel cuts with lower HP than a classical replaceable Carbide tool. As a general rule, you seem to get more useable torque out of Brushless motors than Brushed motors (if the controller card in the lathe compensates for load).

I ended up buying an LMS 7350, but still added steel feed gears, and other features to "max it out". It came with a 4 inch chuck, brushless motor, DRO, BUT purchased a carriage lock, brass gibs, extended travel saddle and offset compound. Like you, I have no intent of doing parts larger than 2.5 inches in diameter, and and most are under 10 inches Long. The exception will be items under 3/4 inches in diameter which can be fed THROUGH the spindle. For that I purchased a "spider" to support rod which sticks out beyond the back side of the spindle. I have friends who do custom chain mail, and they want custom diameter mandrels made to make rings of a very specific size. I also have a "Bearing Center rest, which can support those rods without the use of the tailstock to maintain center. The combination of the spider and the bearing center rest allows me to do mandrels of 36 inches or longer (provided I cut the Outer Diameter about 12 inches at a time.