New to me Van Norman 12

TractorTucker

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I just got my VN 12 moved into my barn, I don't have it wired up yet though as I don't have 3 phase power. I am planning on building a rotary phase converter in the near future though to correct this issue. What would be the smallest size motor I could use to power to it though? I did not get any collets with it although I did get an end mill holder and several shell mill holders. Does anyone have a horizontal arbor or collets they would be willing to sell?

I also want to change all fluids and give it a good oiling before I start using it. I know there is a gearbox for the spindle and one for the power feed. Am I missing any oil reservoirs? How do you drain the coolant? What is a good coolant to use and what weight oil should I put in it?

The table left and right (x-axis?) feels tight, and I think it is because the gib is too tight, how is this adjusted? Is it just the screws on the underside of the table?

The overarm support also won't move. Is it most likely because of rust or did I just miss a screw that holds it in? I tried loosening two handles, one on the top at the front of the ram and one at the back.

Sorry for all the questions but this is my first mill and I have basically no experience using machine tools.20210705_183747.jpg
 
Welcome! There is a host of info available in the old threads on this site, but admittedly it can end up being a long read. If you don’t have a copy yet, This will help some: http://caldicotts.org/images/vn12/vn12manualnew.pdf.

There are a lot of oiling points on the machine…many are spelled out here:

Van Norman No. 12 oil cup questions


I have a 5HP motor I’m planning to use for my phase converter (someday, when I get back to my mill…life has been busy). I suspect a 3HP would be fine if that’s what we’re available. The motor on the VN12 is only about 1.5HP or so (?)

The overarm should move pretty easily with those clamps open. I’m hesitant to say it, but maybe put a block of wood over the end and give it a good whack or two to see if it moves. Penetrating oil and some time to work in first might be the more advisable route.

If your machine has coolant, I’d get the access panel on the base of the column off and see if you have a festering mess to clean up sooner rather than later. I’m not sure about coolant recommendations.

As for oils, I think Mobil DTE heavy medium is a good bet for the gearboxes, and you want way oil for the axis ways and the other oiling points (probably Vactra 2). There’s also grease and oil in the spindle that you don’t want to forget about. Check out this thread:

www.hobby-machinist.com/index.php?threads/More-VN-12-questions

Good luck!


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I've not run a VN12. Just my little VN6 and a VN22.
Please don't become obsessed with needing collets. Many people do.
If you have a lathe or access to one, then arbors and end mill holders can easily be made.

Daryl
MN
 
I pulled the cover off the coolant reservoir and found at least an inch of sludge and what I think was a mouse. It looks like a light motor oil was being used for coolant so I'll have to see if I can get some better coolant for it.

Good news is that I got my free 3 phase motor home today and it is a 7.5 hp one. I guess this means that I will be building a rpc soon!
 
That 7.5hp RPC should turn a 1.5hp just fine. You might want to check the volts on each leg for balanced voltage. Also, keep track of which leg is the created phase/leg. Sometimes called the wild leg.

D
 
I have always gone with the biggest motor you can start off of a RPC is 2/3rds the HP of the Idler. I do start a 7.5 hp Radial arm saw off my RPC with a 10hp idler so I am sure starting torque fits into the equasion some where.

I tried starting a 40hp pellet mill off of an unbalanced 60hp RPC... it did not work.

Like Uglydog mentioned I have always used run capacitors to balance the voltage on the "wild leg" with the other two legs. And don't power the contactor for the motor of the machine being run off the wild leg. When I did this the contactor chattered and would lock "on" sometimes but not others.
 
The general procedure for replacing oils is to drain them, replace with something like kerosene and run for a few minutes. Then drain and replace with the appropriate oil. You'll want to do that with the ram gears and the feeds gearbox and the cutterhead itself.

As far as coolant, these machines will likely have been run with cutting oil. The base of my VN22L came with 5gal or so of old oil. I sucked that out with an oil transfer pump, then filled with degreaser solution, and let sit for a few weeks, then drained out.

Given the pictures of your machine, it is safe to say you'd be wise to also remove the table and clean it out, and make sure the power feed gearing is getting lubricated properly.
 
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