New Tubal Cain Vid on oils

C

Charley Davidson

Active User
Registered
Joined
Nov 8, 2011
Messages
1,678
Freshly uploaded video on oils (Liquids) in the shop, Notice how he leaves out W-D40 and beats that product up by omitting it.
[video=youtube_share;CKYWXp9OSIo]http://youtu.be/CKYWXp9OSIo[/video]
 
I like how he says, "...I don't like anything new...". Am just like him.

Ray
 
Charley Davidson said:
Freshly uploaded video on oils (Liquids) in the shop, Notice how he leaves out W-D40 and beats that product up by omitting it.
Click to expand...

I don't blame him. Water Displacement, formula #40, aka WD40, wasn't meant to be an end-all lubricant. I don't use it anymore know that I know where to get Kroil and PBlaster. :)
 
As usual, Tubal Cain's video is highly instructive. I would like to add several observations of my own:
1. Never Seize is just about mandatory for assembling stainless fasteners in aluminum parts, such as in outboard motors. For use in exposure to saltwater, be sure to use the nickel-based product. Standard Never Seize is copper-based and copper-aluminum contact in the presence of saltwater leads to galvanic corrosion. I have been a sailor for 40 years and have spent three years in the tropics on my boat, and I use one of 4 products on all fasteners: Locktite if I don't want it to vibrate loose, Never Seize in larger fasteners in engines, and either Tefgel or lanolin on fasteners I will want to remove easily. Tefgel is pricey but a little goes a long way and it won't squeeze out at higher temperatures. Otherwise, common lanolin works well and is cheap. Another possibility to keep fasteners in place is RTV silicone sealant, but it is messy to use. Both Tefgel and lanolin also help retain fasteners as they are somewhat sticky. (You can buy Tefgel online; Tufgel is NOT the same thing!. Get Lanolin at a drugstore in tubes or jars -last time I bought 1 lb. for $16. Chandleries sell a modified version called Lanocote which applies more easily.)
2. Brake cleaner is a great solvent but don't ever use it prior to welding. Numerous cases of illness have been documented when so used. Prior to TIG welding, I wash parts with degreaser spray and lots of hot water, and wipe with acetone just before welding. When dry, the acetone will leave no residue on the metal.
Craig
 
I was suprised that he mentioned Anchorlube. The stuff is water soluble, no odor and MSDS indicates it is relatively safe compared to petroleum products. I regularly use it for tapping anything and low speed drilling. It comes as a thick paste that can be tinned down to your liking. Description mentions it purposed for drawing dies.
I discovered it about 15 years ago when I was given hundreds of stainless pieces that had that needed spotfacing on a drill press. The spotfacing tool lasted for a full eight hours using that stuff.
 
I too was surprised by the Anchorlube. I was given the same bottle 20 yrs ago by a worker from an aviation manufacture. I since bought another one and a gallon container as well. Works great on the hard to tap stuff. BTW both bottles have the same collapsed look as his does. I agreed on the majority that he brings up, although his view on epoxies is a little harsh.

Here is a shop tip.
On the twin tube epoxy I will push out what I need then pull the plunger back out by about 1/4" or more to pull the stuff back away from the tips. I will then stand the dispenser with the tips in the up and vertical. That way the tip do not clog and ooze out compared to if stored flat in a drawer. No mess and less lost due to clogging.
Pierre
 
I was suprised he did not mention soluable oil . I keep some mixed up and transfer to spray or squirt bottles to cool tools when cutting or drilling. It is economical as it is dulited at about 10 to 1 for most uses . Bubby Sharp in KY
 
I use a lot of Trim-Sol as well.
Pierre
 
I still use WD40 but only for machining aluminum.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top