Newb Q. surface grinder -vs- Cinnci #2 Grinder for a budding home shop?

[countryguy]

Hi everyone,
I have the opportunity to pick up a Cinncinati #2 grinder in good working order for a very nice price. Problem is I do not know if I need this or a surface grinder technically? We simply need to use grinder to take small amounts off of parts like Axes and knives and swords. Ends to be milled, small bevels possible that to Mill is just a waste of cutter time, etc. I see that in a #2 you place the part like a lathe. And on a surface grinder you seem to put it onto the table. There is also a Do All on eBay for $700 near the house. At about 2500 Lbs I need to get the right unit the first time.

I see from reading that the #2 seems more to sharpening tools? And a Surface unit more to what I think I'm needing?
any thoughts or advice very welcome.
tx
and have a pleasant Sunday all!

 

[JimDawson]

I don't think that a T&C grinder is what you want, or a surface grinder for that matter. Grinding the edge on your axes requires a radius grind. Maybe best done by hand on a belt sander.

You could build a machine that would grind the shape that you want, but it would take some engineering. Maybe something along the line of a tracer. It would be possible to build a CNC grinder that would do what you want, maybe using a surface grinder or a T&C grinder as a starting point. There may be commercially available grinders that will do what you want.

Here is one grinder that might be useful, but I don't know what the capacity is. http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/tld/4574550022.html

 

[countryguy]

Thanks Jim. I get ya!
I just wanted something to take the Mill Scale off, take down the cheek a bit to get into Softer metal on the 1045 and soon 1060 or 1095 stuff.... Not sure yet which but 1045 is great for now but saving $$ cutters is a wish here too.
Just wanted to get into softer material before cutting. There are 'bone saw or tree saw type cutting serrations on 1 side of the long axe handle. Like this (____/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/___________) (to put on a 20' bevel or so)
So this "run" is 6-9" long. .25 thick, and I simply want to run this grinder down 1 side of the serrations and zip them down a tad. Doing by hand is not real good visually. And I could simply just make a jig for the kid too. Then use the bench grinder. Simple is often best. But if what I need is under $400 then it may just be worth the investment for the other slew of uses I'm hearing about. Plus I get to really learn another tool-room standard. The bevel grinders from grizzley and such seem a little too specific here... so I thought with the #2 I would chuck it up, set the head on the long handle serrated part and just dial it down the line and back a few times ??? Make sense? I posted a pic.

for sharpening the Son is buying a Tormek wet stone sharpening system. (or the grizzley? ) But this one's on him and he's about ready to buy it anyday now.

I don't think that a T&C grinder is what you want, or a surface grinder for that matter. Grinding the edge on your axes requires a radius grind. Maybe best done by hand on a belt sander.

You could build a machine that would grind the shape that you want, but it would take some engineering. Maybe something along the line of a tracer. It would be possible to build a CNC grinder that would do what you want, maybe using a surface grinder or a T&C grinder as a starting point. There may be commercially available grinders that will do what you want.

Here is one grinder that might be useful, but I don't know what the capacity is. http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/tld/4574550022.html

 

[JimDawson]

In general a precision grinder is not the tool for removing mill scale. Having said that, I see what you need to do and it is possible to set it up on a T&C grinder. With the right grinding wheel, maybe like a angle grinder wheel, it would be possible to grind the saw tooth serrations to remove the mill scale. The other issue is how long would the shape on the wheel last before you had to dress it again? You would have to build a fixture to hold the work, I don't think the ax would mount between centers very well. I'm not sure how you would do the cheeks. That is almost a job for a hand saw sharpener, if you could find an old Foley, it might be useful for this application.

Best picture I could find



Like I keep saying, half of machine work is just figuring out how to do the job.

On the other hand, $400 for a Cincinnati #2 seems like a pretty good deal if it is not worn out. It would be a nice toy for your toy box.)