O1 Vsw1

[dbassing]

Hi all,
I am in the process of making some punches and was in a local machine shop where they have some material that they sell. I was looking for .500" W1 drill rod. They had what they thought was the right material but they were not sure if it was W1 or O1. So my question is : is there a way to tell the difference?

Thanks for any info,
David

 

[Silverbullet]

Ok I'm scratching my head trying to figure out ,but my memory banks are rusty. Guess you could make what you want then quench in one or the other . Then try the file test . I think there's a difference in the process but try one and see . If it gets hard tehe , you should draw it to straw if I remember that much . Been awhile for me , others on here more into the tool steels may help. Put it this way it won't hurt to try. You don't want you punches to hard they will shatter. Try just making and using for pin punches. Center and prick punches you want hard but drawn .

 

[RJSakowski]

You may be able to tell the difference with a spark test. Get some known A1 and O1 for a comparison and try it. Be aware that hardened steel can spark differently than annealed steel.

Either W1 or O1 can be used for punches. O1 tends to have better dimensional stability as I recall. You can water quench or oil quench either. As mentioned bby Silverbullet, you will want to draw the temper to prevent shattering.

I have made punches in the past by making a mild steel handle and drilling and inserting HSS drill blanks. into the socket. The drill blank can be held in place with a shot of super glue in the socket. These make very durable punches and you have the advantage of making precise diameter punches.

Bob

 

[tertiaryjim]

Cut two slivers of the material and test one in oil and the other in water.
If they don't know what they have they should provide two little equal pieces for testing or sell the material "very" cheap.
The one that hardens the most, without fracturing or shattering should show which it is.
Long pieces like a punch should be quenched vertically to reduce warp.
Careful when drawing this material. When the color starts to turn it will continue to darken even when the heat source is withdrawn.
Dropping it back into fluid as it reaches the desired hardness is the easiest method but with practice and great care one can learn to judge when to pull the heat-usually.

 

[TommyD]

I agree with RJS about the spark test.

I don't have any experience with W1 but remembering hearing that it can shatter/break upon quenching, I have made a lot of stuff with O1 with no issues.