Recommendations on metal type for tractor loader pins.

Normally the pins and bushings are hardened high carbon steel. Any steel with enough carbon in it to harden will work. If the hydraulic cylinder rod end is worn the end can be replaced or bushed. Even some of the pre-hardened steels will work.
 
On todays episode of super sketchy operations that you shouldn’t do at home. I made a line boring tool to increase the bore about 1/32” for an oversized pin. Slow on the hand drill feels like a thousand miles an hour when running this wrist breaker 9000 but it got the job done. The surface finish is absolutely terrible but this part is stationary. The moving part will fit the oversized pin as is. Now I just need to make the pin. I used a piece of water pipe as my gauge tube and reference for the new pin.

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I’m going to make the pins out of automotive axle shaft. Not sure what metal it is but I have to anneal it before I can work with it so it’s something that hardens. I think it’s something in the 1045-1055 range. May be in the 4xxx class, I’m not sure.
 
Well. You win some you lose some. I won in making the first pin. Right where I wanted (with 5 thou tolerance). I needed that whole 5 thou also. I didn’t think about doing a spring pass before the last pass that was significantly less than the passes before. This caused it to cut the amount I dialed plus the sprung amount.

The second pin was different though. I was trucking along as the shaft I am using is about 1.375 and I need 1.050”. I checked my work a couple times along the way but somewhere I blew the diameter by 30 thou. Don’t know where I lost it but ohh well. It was free steel and I have enough to do it again. I’ll save that piece for something else some other time.
 
D.sebens said:
I’m going to make the pins out of automotive axle shaft.
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Prolly 1040. Prolly Almost (maybe completely) universal that they'll be 10XX that is selectively induction hardened to one or another degree.

You won't get into the chromoly's until you get into the aftermarket, very high dollar, very high performance non highway use case stuff.
 
I’ve got the pins made. Testing the original ones, they are harder than 65HRC according to the files. Do you think they are case hardened or through hardened? Should I through harden the pins I made? If so should I temper or leave hard? Also I don’t have a forge or oven so it’s hardened with a torch, it’s possible that the core could still end up a bit soft. The pins are just over an inch diameter.
 
D.sebens said:
I’ve got the pins made. Testing the original ones, they are harder than 65HRC according to the files. Do you think they are case hardened or through hardened? Should I through harden the pins I made? If so should I temper or leave hard? Also I don’t have a forge or oven so it’s hardened with a torch, it’s possible that the core could still end up a bit soft. The pins are just over an inch diameter.
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If the original pins, that you removed, were designed for the purpose, they should not be through hardened.

In the case of your bucket (and presumably the rest that's related), they're sitting in mild steel bosses, and do not have hard bushings. It's not as ideal as some options, BUT... In home use, light use, limited (non commercial) use, and especially being used as a wheel barrow more so than a front end loader. Grab a beer and pack up the tools. You're done. If you do harden them, you don't want it all the way through. A crispy outer shell is best.
 
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