Removed Mill Vice And Yieks

[4GSR]

Down here on the Texas Gulf coast, it is a "have to" to keep the mill table coated with a film of oil. I like the ISO 64 oil for the inhibitors in the oil that help keep rust from forming on any bare surfaces for lengths of time. Most way oils also have inhibitors that help do the same thing. Just remember, don't let the spray mist get under the oil film, that's when you start to get the aggravated stains.

 

[Jeff M]

I was taught to keep the table clean and burr free to start with. I often stone my table to remove burrs, re tram, and if I am putting the vise on for any length of time, I put an oiled piece of paper between my vise and table. Water soluble oils must be cleaned off and the surfaces lubricated to prevent oxidation.

 

[dlane]

Thanks Jeff, haven't heard of the oiled paper trick yet, any kind of special paper or oil ?.

 

[Sandia]

Down here on the Texas Gulf coast, it is a "have to" to keep the mill table coated with a film of oil. I like the ISO 64 oil for the inhibitors in the oil that help keep rust from forming on any bare surfaces for lengths of time. Most way oils also have inhibitors that help do the same thing. Just remember, don't let the spray mist get under the oil film, that's when you start to get the aggravated stains.

I know what your talking about Ken. Never ending battle.

 

[Bill C.]

Like most of the replies I usually milled dry compared to misting or flooding. I use coolant on certain milling machines when heavy machining is required. Be sure to keep the coolant clean, the old stuff could smell if dirty or old.

 

[Jeff M]

Thanks Jeff, haven't heard of the oiled paper trick yet, any kind of special paper or oil ?.

I usually use plain copy paper. If you check it you will find that it is pretty flat. I think you could use any light, clean oil. I usually use "velocite #6" as it is what we use for spindle oil.

 

[george wilson]

I NEVER use any kind of water based cutting fluid. Hardinge manual says it will void the warranty of their HLVH lathe. Not that mine is still in warranty! I saw an HLVH that had been used with water based coolant. The area beneath the cross slide was a total mess. The metal had been badly etched out everywhere. I didn't even look elsewhere when I saw that! And,the idiot still wanted $15,000.00!

I just use a spray can of cutting oil,and an acid brush to help spread it around. After all,I'm not doing production work. And,neither are most of you.

 

[Jeff M]

George, I have a Hardinge HLV-H in the shop I work in. You are absolutely right about not using water soluble oil on them. It is in their literature and you had better heed their warning. The reason the HLV-H requires straight cutting oil is that the cross slide has wear strips glued to them and the water soluble oil will attack the glue.

 

[4GSR]

............. I saw an HLVH that had been used with water based coolant. The area beneath the cross slide was a total mess. The metal had been badly etched out everywhere..................

I have a 1954 20" Lodge & Shipley Model X lathe that the lathe bed is etched from end to end from water based coolant and the lack of cleaning of the steel shavings from the bed! Never seen a lathe bed looking this bad. (I'll see if I can post a picture.)