Shop air upgrade

[AGCB97]

Started out just trying to reduce air leaks so the compressor would run less. I first got soapy water and a brush and went around the shop checking every connection and hose, fixing as I go. Some of the leaks were in old air hose that I used because I had it and it was easy. That resulted in a trip to Ace to buy a new roll of 3/8" air hose. When that order came in all the old pieces were replaced with new. I replaced a few blow guns and also some cheap 1/4" ball valves at the machines (there are spray coolers on 5 machines, each with a valve, regulator and siphon type sprayer).

Then to the compressor itself. I've been trying to seal leaks on the bottom of the tank for several years. I tried again and just before my thought of a bigger patch, decided it could get dangerous. That was when I ordered a new 60-gallon compressor. As thought back, that one was put in in 1977, 45 years ago.

I picked that up from the delivery truck at a parking lot in town as my driveway is not conducive to backing a semi into, especially with a foot and a half of snow alongside. The driver lowered his liftgate and we slid it on to my trailer. Called a few friends to help get it off the trailer so it could be wheeled into the shop with a hand cart.

The old one was a little difficult to get out as it was mounted above the main workbench and quite close to the ceiling. You can see it in the upper left of this old pic.



I had to strap in place so it could not tip out and then get a floor jack under it sitting on the counter. the wooden support was disassembled. Was then able to let it down enough to get a HD cable come along on top and let it down while also pulling it out away from the counter with a second one.





I hadn't realized that the cable was too short to let the compressor reach the floor. it was about 30" short. After some great thought as to how this might be solved, I came up with the idea of using the shop press as a cart (since it is on good wheels and very stable). I blocked the compressor up and strapped it well to the press.





Then it was easy to roll under the chain hoist and put it on the floor.

To facilitate getting the new one back in place, a lift bracket was built and bolted to the top. Then the same procedure was used to lift it into place, although not so close to the ceiling.




A new support frame was built, and it was attached to the wall as before.

I put a 1" x 4 pipe nipple as a water reservoir and installed an automatic drain valve



Then hooked up the auto shutoff valve and relays.


Spent way more than anticipated but got a good leak free system now. Good for another 45 years (I'll be 115 years old then)

Thanks for looking.
Aaron

 

[maspann]

That was quite the process! What auto drain valve did you use? And, what is the purpose of the auto shut off valve and relays?

 

[Winegrower]

I also just finished adding an auto drain, https://www.ecompressedair.com/combo-d-lux-12-npt-115-volt-300-psi-drain-valve.aspx.

This is a very configurable system for timing and function. I hooked it up so that every time the compressor motor comes on, it gives a 3 second drain cycle. This works like a charm.

 

[extropic]

Congratulations on the new compressor. I'm glad you replaced the old one before a leak became a catastrophe.

Attached is a graphic that can guide you with recommended practices if you get around to fixing the plumbing.

Two major safety issues:
Using PVC in a compressed air system is a BIG no-no. It can shatter into shrapnel.
You should have a flexible hose between the receiver (tank) output and the wall mounted plumbing. The vibration from the compressor will further stress the plumbing mounted to the wall(s)..

 

[AGCB97]

What auto drain valve did you use? And, what is the purpose of the auto shut off valve and relays?

I used this one. 3 second drain every 45 minutes.

Amazon.com

There is a 7 day programmable timer that controls a linear actuator to shut off air at tank outlet for my usual shop time. It also opens a contactor to remove power from motor

 

[maspann]

Congratulations on the new compressor. I'm glad you replaced the old one before a leak became a catastrophe.

Attached is a graphic that can guide you with recommended practices if you get around to fixing the plumbing.

Two major safety issues:
Using PVC in a compressed air system is a BIG no-no. It can shatter into shrapnel.
You should have a flexible hose between the receiver (tank) output and the wall mounted plumbing. The vibration from the compressor will further stress the plumbing mounted to the wall(s)..

I will agree with you, extropic that PVC in compressed air systems is a no-no. I had it in my shop for 20+ years and have just replaced it with 3/4" copper. I will say that my shop is heated and air conditioned and as I cut the PVC lines they were not brittle at all. Again, I would not recommend using PVC, but the shop environment can make a difference.

 

[7milesup]

PVC in compressed air systems is a no-no.

Absolutely 100% correct there. No way would I have a PVC air system. PVC is made to hold water, not air. 600lbs of water pressure is vastly different than 600lbs of air pressure. (hint, water is not compressible).