Showing off my new airlines

It looks like some of the lines are level, and some have a definite slope to them. Did you do this in an effort to make sure water / condensation will always flow back to a blow off point?

That is one thing that I have been thinking about for when I actually get around to getting my airlines run better. I plan on making sure the runs are straight lines with slope so water will always run back to blow out pipes.

Currently I have a temporary ( about 20 years now) hose attached to the ceiling that goes from one corner of my shop to the opposite corner where I have a hose reel on the wall. I have 150’ of hose on it, so is real handy to pull out air up tires outside.

But, it will run out of air pressure/ volume quickly with a die grinder/ impact wrench.

And I’ve had problems in the past since the lines has droops in it on the ceiling, of the line freezing up in the winter time when I had no heat in the shop. I have heat now when I go out to work, and this winter was semi mild, so didn’t have freezing problems, but that might have because I was out there several times a week too.


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Red96 said:
When I plumbed the airlines in my shop I did 'a little' internet research and recall the psi rating of smaller household type copper tubing (that I found at that time) to be a little too close for my comfort, and so I used a solder rated at a higher psi rating. Not saying this to be correct, but it was cheap insurance to just go with a solder with a higher tensile rating. Googling just now, I got some very different answers regarding the pressure rating of copper pipe and plumbing solder, so I'd be curious if anyone can speak with authority of what the actual ratings are for common plumbing copper tube (K, L or M style) soldered with typical 50/50 plumbing solder.

My only regret is that I plumbed the whole shop with 1/2" M style, and wish now that I had done the 'feeder' lines in a larger diameter, like the 3/4" used by the OP. When running something at the far end of the shop that has large volume demands, you can hear the air rushing to repressure the lines for a second or so if you suddenly chop off the air flow. The 1/2" lines must be restricting the flow somewhat.
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I would be interested in knowing a little more about the ratings of the different copper pipe also. The reason I chose the 3/4 was 1 I had some and 2 I do a good deal of automotive painting. Painting with my HVLP was really the guidelines I tried to follow to insure I had the volume to run my guns. Then I got the blast cabinet and things just kind of started coming together. The jury is still out on my filter setup. I chose to go with the new Megaflow from stupid simple tools due to the fact it had 3/4 inlet and outlet standard. Also it’s made down in Florida. Time will tell on that. The only other option was to go big on a tsunami filter setup and they are stupid expensive but worth the money. That’s what we use at work.
My primary goal here is to have a setup to restore old machines. A place to bead blast and to use automotive paint materials in my restos. That’s my passion. All these projects are just side projects to get me to that point
 
The Tsunami stuff works really well. We use them in our body shops, as dry, oil-free air is so critical for spraying the water-based base coats.
 
Red96 said:
The Tsunami stuff works really well. We use them in our body shops, as dry, oil-free air is so critical for spraying the water-based base coats.
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Yes sir, That’s what we use in our body shop. We are still using a solvent based system. Chromax
 
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