Some mods and additions.

th62

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A few mods and additions I’ve made to my lathe. Hopefully, they may help someone out with ideas.
Tool shelf above lathe for metric and imperial drill bits.
Carriage clamp, a lot better than the single Allen key clamp.
An extension bolt with lever for the change gears, saves searching for a spanner or Allen key.
A sprung idler on a lever for changing speeds/belts.
A couple of bits of allthread screwed to the knobs to make turning them easier.
Extension handles on the apron and tailstock wheels. I put these on to help my arthritic hands, but they are excellent to assist with a smoother operation when turning.
A dial test indicator fixed to the cross slide visas nut and bolt.
Indexing graduations on the chuck with a pointer. These are in 5 degree graduations.
A tray on top of the head stock to store chuck jaws and various other bits and pieces.
Another tray on top of the tailstock for shims, centre drills and other tools.
Switch mods: Reversing toggle switch, momentary on switch for inching and another toggle for off/on. The original plastic on/off switch fell apart, so I replaced it with a simple toggle, while I was at it I also replaced the rotary direction switch with a toggle, installed a momentary on inching switch for threading and so on. Then rewired the machine to suit.
Bed protector bolted to headstock and apron connected to carriage. It works on a gravity system, keeping the canvas taught.
A couple of flexible coolant hoses. These leak after a while, so I threaded some retic hose through them and installed a small retic tap at the end. The fixed one is used for drilling, the other is on a swivel base which is used to dump coolant on the cutting tool.
 

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I like the carriage lock and the indexing chuck ideas.
 
I like the carriage lock and the indexing chuck ideas.
I like the indexing chuck idea as well, but it got me to thinking about how I'd index the spindle to establish such marks. I suppose if my rotab were small enough I could mount it to the cross-slide and index it. Then some way to make quality markings in situ...

GsT
 
Some other additions and mods to consider.

I added a spindle work stop to my G0602. I threaded the back end of the spindle to accept an adapter for some 3/8" threaded rod. I made an assortment of ends for the rod for different diameters of work and use a jam nut to lock in place. It's a great accessory when you need to make replicate parts. https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/lathe-headstock-work-stop-g0602.32809/

I also made a carriage stop. There are many variations out there, each with different features. My version is a hard stop and by inserting various spacers between the carriage and the stop, making repetitive cuts to different shoulders becomes a piece of cake.
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/how-to-setup-to-repeat-same-cut-50x.97468/#post-915744, post#8

I made a rack for my QCTP holders that is mounted on the backsplash.
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/qctp-tool-holder-rack.68497/

I made a tool height gage for setting lathe tool heights
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/making-tips-for-a-dial-indicator.67209/#post-561754 post #3

I made a gage for quickly setting the compound at a 29.5º angle for threading.

I made an adjustable work stop for the three jaw chuck.
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/thr...products-lathe-chuck-stops.40357/#post-346964 post #8

I beefed up the compound clamp on the 602, greatly increasing rigidity.

I replaced the thread gears with the Clough42 ELS. It's a joy to use.

I replaced the OEM setscrew that functioned (sort of) as a key for the tailstock quill.
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/choosing-a-dro-for-a-lathe.62746/page-3 post #23

I added a three axis DRO using iGaging scales and the TouchDRO electronics.

While I had the cross slide off to modify for the DRO, I added a second position for the compound to the rear, extending the range for the cross slide travel to allow for rear mounted tooling.

I modified the OEM belt tensioner for increased range of motion to correct the problem with difficult to change belts on the G0602.

I changed the OEM tailstock lock bolt to a 1/2" 13 tpi bolt. Along with a bit of work on the underside of the bed, the tailstock will go from free to full lock in less than 1/3 turn. I added a lever to a cheap 3/4" socket which now lives on the tailstock nut and is always handy.
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/thr...amping-surface-thickness.109027/#post-1081295 post #7

I replaced the OEM induction motor with a brushed DC motor and a custom designed controller for better than 50:1 range in speed with little loss in torque.
 
I like the indexing chuck idea as well, but it got me to thinking about how I'd index the spindle to establish such marks. I suppose if my rotab were small enough I could mount it to the cross-slide and index it. Then some way to make quality markings in situ...

GsT
Chuck a degree wheel in the chuck, clamp a very sharp cutting tool on the left side of the tool post and a pointer of some description (I used a hacksaw blade) on the right side of the tool post (you'll nave to angle both slightly). Arrange them so the cutting tool rests on the backplate, while the pointer rests on the degree wheel. Wind the cross slide back a little, point the pointer at the desired mark on the degree wheel, wind the cross slide forward and wind the carriage back, so scribing a line on the backplate.
 
In addition to other mods, I added a hand-wheel draw bar and 3C collets to my HF 7 by 10. Together with my lever action tailstock, with a 6 position turret, it makes a great combo for the production parts that I make. ---- John
 
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