Straight 6 Cylinder Engine

[intrepid]

Great work Chris. I have enjoyed you progress. Wondering how you will oil the engine, small oil pump? Keep at it and posting your progress. I'm sure many are following along also.

 

[rdean]

You should use 8-32, my favorite...

They would be a little large for some of the models I make but they would be easier to work with.



Thanks intrepid for the kind words but I'm not Chris.
I will be just oiling the needed places by hand at this time but that doesn't mean that I couldn't add a oil pan later.


Time to get this engine to stand up on it's own. I have thought about this for some time and drew up a couple motor mount designs but I didn't care for them . In the end I will go with the same type I used on my 4 cylinder engine only a little smaller in size.
This is a block of aluminum that was left over from my radial engine build.
Milling away the parts that don't look like a motor mount.


Here they are mounted on the engine.


I also made some risers to gain enough height for the flywheel.


I was thinking about naming the engine maybe Six Pack, or Six Shooter, but I am open to suggestions please.

Thanks for looking
Ray

 

[Chris Hamel]

I like six shooter

 

[rdean]

In January of 2022 I finished a twin engine called Two Timer. This was the only engine that I built that had an active water cooling system.



It worked very nicely and kept the engine temp down on long runs. But I have only ran the engine with water in it 6 times since it was completed as the water pump shaft would leak coolant and make a mess. I try to run all my engines at least once a month and then for only about 5min each so a water cooling system is not necessary. I will be using this water pump and radiator on this build and hope to be able to keep the cooling system intact and not have to drain it each time.

A couple of pictures from 2022 so you c an see the insides.



I have modified the pump housing and added an o-ring to hopefully stop the shaft leak problem.
Here it is mounted on the engine.


Thanks for looking
Ray

 

[rdean]

I like six shooter

So it shall be.


I am going to try and enhance the name so it shows up better.
Do you have any ideas?


So anyway I cut out the side plate and a gasket for it. I want to test the water pump before I go much further for flow and leaking.
Two things I need to change are the drive pulley should be larger to increase flow and the brass nipples ID should be enlarged.
This is the setup I am using to check for leaks.


Every time I think of it I run the drill for some time to circulate the water.
So far no leaks anywhere but I will leave this together overnight before making any of the other changes.

Thanks for looking
Ray

 

[BGHansen]

I am going to try and enhance the name so it shows up better.
Do you have any ideas?

How about using a paint marker over the text/engraving to fill the grooves, then wipe off the top surface. Or, paint it with the same orange as your block and wipe the surface. I made the plaque shown below for my mom a few years ago after dad passed away. I did a scuffed finish instead of polished. After engraving on the Tormach, the top surface was hit with a 320-grit D/A sander to knock the burrs down. Painted the engraving with a Dykem marker, let it dry, then D/A'd the top again. The paint really made the engraving pop.


Engraving done on a Tormach 1100 S3 with a 60 deg. engraving bit, 0.060" deep in 1/8" aluminum


Painted the engraving with a Dykem black paint marker, let it dry, then sanded the surface with 320-grit

 

[tq60]

Something we are going to try, sand and clean the plate.

Apply packing tape and burnish.

Passes on the table saw to make some lines.

Fill with paint.

Remove tape.

Apply clear coat.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

 

[rdean]

Bruce that is a good idea and I have used it on wood projects before but the depth of the engraving is only 0.015 deep. I think I will still try it though as i have nothing to lose. As thick as the plate is I could just resurface the whole plate and start over.

tq60 I am not following your suggestion of the table saw. Please explain.

I made a new lower pulley to speed up the water pump and enlarged the diameter of the in and out brass nipples today. It did help but not as much as I had hoped. The water pump inlet port may be too small and I want to make a way to vent the cylinder cavity of any trapped air maybe tomorrow.



I finished drilling the rest of the holes in the cylinder head except for the spark plugs. I will drill them after the valves are seated.


Gave it a little shine.



Thanks for looking.
Ray

 

[mattthemuppet2]

Fabulous work!

If you want an alternative to the butt puckering 6-32 thread then 6-40 or M3 (0.5 pitch?) are both good options

 

[Chris Hamel]

Looking good