stuck chuck AGAIN !!!!!

[benmychree]

OMG John you could take a stroll from one end to the other on your lunch break

Lathes in that category allowed a lot of bench sitting time!

 

[Silverbullet]

We had a bid lathe a 54" with a 48" four jaw , face plate type . It's length was forty ft. Came from the ship yard I was told it made the prop shafts for big ships of ww11. I ran and st her up several times start a cut and it ran the entire day for one cut, but she could spit 3/4" curls with high speed tooling. Had a seat to ride for finish cuts to be watched. She was my biggest machine to run before getting butchered.

 

[benmychree]

The 86 " swing lathe that I previously commented on was originally a 48 or 50" swing that was blocked up to the larger swing, it was a heavy duty LeBlond; it had the faceplate style jaws that were keyed into slots in the faceplate, the slower speed range was by internal gearing behind the faceplate; the bed had at its center, big ratchet teeth that a pawl carried by the tailstock engaged in to prevent it from being pushed back on the ways by big heavy workpieces.

 

[markba633csi]

Wow yes I can see how the ratchet in the center would be handy-
sorry Porthos we are OT here
Mark

 

[benmychree]

I was taken to task in an earlier post for using power (reverse) rotation to remove chucks on lathes (that post and my answer to it were subsequently removed from this posting) the postings were civil, but not in line with the spirit of HM, and I was not sad to see them removed.
I would however defend my use of reverse to remove chucks, but would say that the practice should be used only on larger machines, where a crescent wrench and mallet are not about to do the job; on shall lathes such as most of HM people use, it is not necessary, the chucks are usually quite easy to remove, and on my 9" Monarch, I use the wrench on the chuck jaw and a lead hammer and usually it is easy to get the chucks broken loose; on my 19" Regal that is not at all the case, and I use the back off under power with a wood block on the back ways nearly always.

 

[12bolts]

.....Place machine in lowest belted speed (not in back gear) and place chuck key in directly upward first then give it a tug. If that does not work place it straight forward and apply some pressure and tap it with large mallet.

This is not good practice and will lead to bellmouthed screw sockets at best, and broken at worst.

......on small lathes such as most of HM people use, it is not necessary, the chucks are usually quite easy to remove, and on my 9" Monarch, I use the wrench on the chuck jaw and a lead hammer and usually it is easy to get the chucks broken loose.

This is good advice Oft times a piece of hardwood cross ways through the jaws will also make a good lever

I recommend chasing the threads with a spring thread cleaner. It's something you can easily make, although I really had to dig to find a picture of one on the net.

View attachment 264839

I made my own out of a piece of stainless tigging filler wire and I will take a pic tomorrow

Cheers Phil

 

[hermetic]

when you get it off, check the thread for cracks and blowholes. I had to get one off once, real devil of a job, and when it came off, we found the thread in the backplate was cracked. Scrapped the backplate, ho more problems, but it went on easy, and always jammed!