The saga of my deck

[Marco Bernardini]

Since it's not exactly "machining" (but a machine large enough to work on a whole deck would require a bit more space than the goat room I'm using as shop) I think this branch of the forum is more appropriate for it.
Here is my deck/gazebo in 2009, brand new:



The day I gave the last coat of paint to the deck we obviously had the first rain after some months of drought, and it was June 20, but the color I used (natural walnut dye) resisted.
The chestnut poles supporting the shading mesh have a "small" cement plinth under them, with 2-½" iron pipes with rebars crossing them at the bottom. In this photo the part outside is 1/3 of the total length of the support pipe: some homes of the '50 have less robust foundations.



Last year I added a sort of "hat" to raise the two poles supporting the "ridge" and the fluorescent lamp, because I'd had guests so tall that their heads almost rub the mesh.
The prolongation of the poles of course increased the torque on them, and after the severe bad weather we had last winter I decided to replace the ridge poles because they were a bit "squeaky".
I also had to patch the deck, eaten by insects and rotten by the rain:







More details are explained here and here.
Following my "better safe than sorry" method, the new poles are 2" zinc coated pipes, 3.2 mm thick, inserted into the existing 2-½" pipes.
Of course a 2" pipe is a lot smaller than the inside of a 2-½" pipe, so I had to find a solution for that.
Suggestion of the Scientist of the Village: «Hammer some wood wedges all around».
Suggestion of the gate maker: «Weld everything».
My solution, instead, is this pretty machinistic one:




The long stainless steel screws are temporary, I have to buy some of the right length.
The bolts with the yellow spacer have the function to anchor the pole to the plinth, while the other screws are for the vertical regulation: I keep the poles pointed a bit outward for aesthetic reasons.
I assure you to thread the bottom holes near the wall was really arduous, because there wasn't enough space for the tap handle!
To "camouflage" the shiny pipe I found a couple of very rusty and pitted 2-½" pipes, 1.5 mm thick, which soon will be placed around the new ones to give a "rustic" appearance to the deck.
Stay tuned for amazing new adventures on my deck!

 

[Ray C]

I hope you get it all sorted out. Wooden decks are so much maintenance! I have a large deck and last year, I replaced the top boards because the 20 year old original boards were a hazard. I bought some really expensive deck stain/sealer and applied two coats right after the work was done. Huh! By the end of the summer is was faded and didn't resist water. I put two more coats on last week. So far it's looking good but this business of re-sealing the deck every year is getting old -fast! Next year, I'll buy a 5 gallon can of some cheaper stuff as I doubt it could break down any faster than the expensive one...



Ray

 

[rafe]

forget the sealers they are useless .....I always genorously use a good oil based primer and a solid stain (latex) and get 10 years before you have to stain it again....If you like the wood look get Cedar, Mahagony or Teak Not PT pine....BUT if you paint it (PT) ....and don't wait as long as they tell you either ....a week or two of drying is more than enough.....it will not crack,splinter or openup ....AS Badly.... because you retard the drying process.....This has been my experience and it works for me ....

 

[Marco Bernardini]

A friend of mine (not a Scientist of the Village, but a serious "tree doctor", a graduate forester and agronomist) has to buy some wood for him, and suggested to form a sort of co-operative to buy some selected whole sweet chestnut trees (Castanea sativa) in Piedmont, where they are less expensive than here, and have them quarter-sawn by a sawmill.
Of the 12 boards I have on the deck, flat-sawn pine lumber, there is just a single one which is quartersawn and thus still flat, but it was a lucky case: all the others are cupped and twisted.
The chestnut wood, rich of tannin, is more resistant to outdoor use, requiring less maintenance.
Of course this is a long term project :biggrin:

 

[samthedog]

I have an outdoor table in Jarrah and have a wooden deck. The deck is finished in some fancy deck sealant but the outdoor set has been sanded down and coated very generously with boiled linseed oil, then wiped off. The boiled linseed oil is proving to be a much more effective treatment than the deck sealant and is resisting water and mildew much more effectively.

I worked on some old cabins and houses here in Norway, some as old as 400 years. Those coated in pine tar sealant or linseed oil have resisted rot and weathering very well. I believe that this is because these traditional slow the drying process, but still allow the wood to breathe.

Paul.

 

[Marco Bernardini]

I have an outdoor table in Jarrah and have a wooden deck. The deck is finished in some fancy deck sealant but the outdoor set has been sanded down and coated very generously with boiled linseed oil, then wiped off. The boiled linseed oil is proving to be a much more effective treatment than the deck sealant and is resisting water and mildew much more effectively.

I worked on some old cabins and houses here in Norway, some as old as 400 years. Those coated in pine tar sealant or linseed oil have resisted rot and weathering very well. I believe that this is because these traditional slow the drying process, but still allow the wood to breathe.

Paul.

Thanks!
I have a sample of the wood covered with lineseed oil, to see how it behaves before to treat the whole deck. Of course I can't wait 400 years to see if it's so effective :biggrin:

 

[Ray C]

I'm getting WAY out of my territory by talking about woodwork but, yes, that linseed oil is outstanding stuff. If it could do for humans what it does for wood, it would be like having the fountain of youth...


Ray

 

[Marco Bernardini]

At last the gazebo has its roof!



That shading mesh looks thin, but it offers a good protection from the sun.
I forget to show you the jig I made to drill holes into large pipes:






I still have to replace the waterproof switches and outlets serving the deck, but the most is done.

 

[samthedog]

I like that jig. I once heard that the ultimate form of sophistication is simplicity. It does what it should and does it well.

Paul.

 

[Marco Bernardini]

I like that jig. I once heard that the ultimate form of sophistication is simplicity. It does what it should and does it well.

Paul.

Thanks!
It's just a big V block, and I can use it not only on the drill press, but also as a support when I've to cut big pipes with the angle grinder.