Tree 2UVR electrical hookup

TheOriginalWoodchuck

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Hi all! I know very little about electrical and mostly do woodworking/cabinets
I now own a Tree 2UVR. The owner had it converted to 440 as he had a rotory phase converter set up for that.
I need to put it back to 220V as my rotary phase converter is for that. Do I only need to change the wires in the motor? Does anyone have a schematic for what wires to connect? Do I change anything in the main box? Thanks! I'm sure someone has done this. 20210926_124258 - Copy.jpg
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Yes, you'll need to rewire the motor. Data plate does indicate that the motor is (was originally?) capable of being run off of both 220 and 440V. Hopefully someone with more experience in motors can tell you how, without a diagram on the motor I'm clueless. From your second picture, if that's the motor junction box and not just a mounting point for the switch, it doesn't look like all the appropriate leads are brought out but the power cord strain relief may be obscuring something. Might be helpful to know what each of the three cords coming out of the contactor box are connected to, presumably one to the motor and one from the power plug (coming in on top?), what about the third?

I would definitely doing something about the loose wires that are barely taped off in the contactor box. Can't tell what was done but that looks suspicious. The original contactors were 220V so hopefully the overload heaters are also original and appropriate for the current needed at 220V.
 
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Are you absolutely sure the previous owner had it wired for 440V? Both the coils are marked 220V. Those coils pull in the contacts. One for forward the other for reverse. One will remain energized anytime the machine is running. It would burn out in short order if 440 volts were applied.

I would also check the size of the heaters. They are the little rectangular boxes screwed to the contactor bases just below the white buttons. If it's wired for 440V according to my Allen Bradley charts the heaters should be either N16 or N17. If it's wired 220V they should be N24. It's hard to see from the pictures, but I believe the left most heater on the right contactor says N24. Since both the coils and the heaters appear to be wired for 220V I would look at the data plate on the motor to confirm your suspicion that the motor is actually wired for 440V.

Here's an Allen Bradley chart listing the heater sizes used in starter applications. From the pictures it appears your starters are size 00.
 

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Are you absolutely sure the previous owner had it wired for 440V? Both the coils are marked 220V. Those coils pull in the contacts. One for forward the other for reverse. One will remain energized anytime the machine is running. ...
??Normally with a forward/reverse contactor arrangement I would expect the power to the motor to come out of the contactor box on one cable. Note there is a separate power cable out of each contactor. It looks to me like there is a drum switch wired to the motor, possibly someone hacked around one of the contactors going bad??

I don't see any external connections in that contactor box that could lead to a forward/reverse/stop switch, but I'm likely missing something.

I'm wondering how badly hacked up this is. @TheOriginalWoodchuck, do you know how the previoius owner controlled the machine, using the drum switch next to the motor? Or is there a functional Forward/Reverse/Stop switch?

 
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Are you absolutely sure the previous owner had it wired for 440V? Both the coils are marked 220V. Those coils pull in the contacts. One for forward the other for reverse. One will remain energized anytime the machine is running. It would burn out in short order if 440 volts were applied.

I would also check the size of the heaters. They are the little rectangular boxes screwed to the contactor bases just below the white buttons. If it's wired for 440V according to my Allen Bradley charts the heaters should be either N16 or N17. If it's wired 220V they should be N24. It's hard to see from the pictures, but I believe the left most heater on the right contactor says N24. Since both the coils and the heaters appear to be wired for 220V I would look at the data plate on the motor to confirm your suspicion that the motor is actually wired for 440V.

Here's an Allen Bradley chart listing the heater sizes used in starter applications. From the pictures it appears your starters are size 00.
Thanks projectnut,
The heaters on the right are N24, on the left are N14.
Here's a photo of a plate, for the forward/reverse switch, and the motor plate, and yes it's wired for 440 after looking at that. I don't know what to do with wires 1,2,3. I only found 1 and 2. 3 might be the center wire here by my finger but I don't know. 2 is on the other side.20210927_100330.jpgr. 20210927_090058.jpg20210927_090053.jpg20210927_090003.jpg,20210926_123108.jpg
 
Taking a stab in the dark, this is NOT advice, the first thing to check is the motor. Check whether it is wired for 240 or 480. The previous owner's word has no value here. IF line (T leads) 1, 2, and 3 are the line, and 4 tied to 7, 5 tied to 8, and 6 tied to 9, it is wired 480. IF line 1, 2, and 3 are paired with 7, 8, and 9 respectively and 4, 5, and 6 are tied together, it is wired for 240. A plate on the motor should show these connections.

The coils for the starters are 240 volts, so the motor likely is. The PO has aparently "jack legged" the wiring and if it was connected to 480, several components are likely smoked. The panel wiring should be redone, restoring the reversing function. The drum switch should be connected to the starters, basically a 3 wire connection.

Beyond that, I don't have any ideas. Again, this is just a stab in the dark.

.
 
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